Hair care trends: Natural ingredients and scalp microbiome take center stage
22 Sep 2021 --- The demand for natural ingredients in hair care is increasing, evident by the extended use of botanicals in formulations. PersonalCareInsights sits down with industry experts who note consumers’ growing interest in organic ingredients, while the scalp microbiome trend paves the way for novel hair formulations.
Innova Market Insights’ data reveals the use of plant-based claims in personal care launches is increasing globally, with a 51% year-over-year growth when comparing 2019 and 2020 launches.
Moreover, in the same period, botanical and herbal claims in NPD showed a 16% year-over-year growth.
“Right now, sustainability and digitalization are seen as important drivers. Therefore, we strive to develop ingredients and formulations that have a high share of naturality and a low carbon footprint, while maintaining their high performance in the hair care subsegments, like shampoo, conditioner or styling products,” explains Hans-Martin Haake, head of application technology personal care solutions EMEA, BASF.
The source of hair health: scalp care
Scalp care is a new trend in cosmetic applications from Asia and specifically from Japan, comments Fred Zülli, founder and business development director at Mibelle Group Biochemistry.
“Healthy, beautiful hair starts with a healthy scalp,” he comments. “Therefore, the special treatment of the scalp is a logical consequence of this. Most anti-aging concepts of skincare (meaning face care) can be adopted and transformed into scalp care.”
“Concepts like healthy skin microbiome or protection of skin stem cells are also very relevant strategies for a successful scalp treatment.”
GRW for Hair executive also comments on this trend. “The scalp care trend is growing and here to stay. The bottom line is healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp,” adds Gabrielle Thompson, co-founder of GRW for Hair.
Consumers with hair in the 3B to 4C hair type range need products that provide moisture retention.
“At GRW, we are tending to the scalp first. We use our blends of botanical oils, butters, fruits (papaya) and herbs (rosemary) to target the scalp.”
Scalp health, care and education is growing in importance in the textured hair community, notes Nikki Chung, director of innovation and engagement at SheaMoisture.
“Consumers are starting to recognize that the route to beautiful, healthy hair starts with caring for the scalp, and there is a growing demand for products to detoxify, balance microbiomes and improve the overall health of the scalp.”
Scalp microbiome focus
The analysis of the scalp microbiome is a relatively new research field. However, it has been known for a long time that dandruff and other scalp disorders are caused by microorganisms such as Malassezia, explains Zülli.
“At Mibelle Biochemistry, we think that scalp treatments to balance the right mix of microorganisms is a relevant approach for a healthy scalp and, therefore, healthy hair,” says Zülli.
“An additional approach is also the scalp treatment with active ingredients to improve the recovery of the microbiome after stress such as UV-irradiation, pollution and daily hair wash with aggressive products.”
Mibelle’s BlackBeeOme is prepared by a fermentation process of honey, which is harvested from the rare black bees. The ingredient has been shown to promote a faster microbiome recovery after harsh washing, while reducing scalp irritation, details Zülli.
The company is marketing several different ingredients for scalp formulations, he adds. “AstraForce, an extract of the astragalus root, has been shown to significantly reduce sebum production on the scalp and therefore is suitable to prepare shampoos against oily hair.”
Rebalancing scalp health
Mild formulations with natural-based surfactants and active ingredients, like protein hydrolysates, contribute to a healthy scalp, says Ulrich Issberner, director of market development of hair, body and oral care, BASF Europe.
“We offer a range of active ingredients with soothing, caring and moisturizing properties, like Sanicapyl, PatcH2O or Scalposine,” notes Issberner.
The Ultra VIP Day + Night Hair Oil contains oils that help to nourish and balance the scalp so that it can function as ‘fertile soil’ for the hair to thrive from.
At the base of all SheaMoisture’s hair care collections is shea butter, an ingredient known for generations to help moisturize and condition the hair and scalp, details Chung.
“Other nutrient-rich natural ingredients used in current hair recipes, such as coconut oil, manuka honey and our superfruit complex, provide antioxidant benefits in our formulas that help to support scalp health,” she adds.
Taking a look at GRW for Hair’s ingredients for the scalp, Thompson highlights: “The Ultra VIP Day + Night Hair Oil contains coconut oil, castor oil, watermelon seed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, carrot seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, hibiscus and rosemary.”
“These help to nourish and balance the scalp so that it can function as ‘fertile soil’ for the hair to thrive from,” she adds.
GRW for Hair’s other product, Everything Hair + Scalp Mask, contains mafura oil and butter, mango butter, cocoa butter, shea butter papaya, amla and aloe vera. “These botanical oils and butters work well to nourish both the hair and scalp,” says Lexi Anczok, co-founder of GRW for Hair.
3B to 4C hair type ranges
Type 3B to 4C are a class of hair that owe their properties to the bends, kinks and curls that originate from their follicular shape. These bends, coils and curls impart less thickness, length and overall resilience to these hair types than others, explains Tosin Dania, technical manager of personal care, BASF, sub-Saharan Africa.
“This hair range benefits richly from actives and ingredients which augment their strength, moisture, combing and stylability,” he details. “Chief among these are conditioning actives, proteins, actives and emollients which populate BASF’s wide range of ingredient and actives portfolios.”
These hair types are further benefitted where each product in the range or application routine overlays the hair with good conditioning and emollience, Dania notes.
“Through our tests and other works thus far, conditioners such as Dehyquart C 4046, Dehyquart F 75 T and Dehyquart L 80 were found to possess conditioning benefits, supporting compatibility, shine, softness and pliability.”
Formulating different hair
According to Chung, consumers with type 3 to 4 textured hair have an overarching concern with infusing moisture and retaining moisture in their hair.
“Hair recipes that incorporate rich butters and oils and different levels tend to work best to deliver lasting moisture to this hair type.”
Nikki Chung, director of innovation and engagement at SheaMoisture.
BASF has formulated ingredients that are suitable for this hair type.
“Our protein hydrolysates such as Gluadin Kera-P LM and Nutrilan Keratin LM provide deep fortification, strengthening and protection by operating deep beyond the hair surface,” comments Dania.
“PatcH2O imparts great moisture on these hair types, supporting their hydration, manipulation and recovery needs. Finally, our range of fixatives and styling ingredients impart curls, conditioning and different degrees of non-flaking and non-tacky hold on these types of hair,” she adds.
BASF’s Curls on Lock Gel Styler provides frizz management at high humidity on coily 4C hair. The product offers a non-tacky and non-flaking solution for hold and definition without the crunch. It was developed using Luviset One and Luviquat Supreme AT1, details Dania.
Oils and moisture from honey and botanicals
SheaMoisture’s Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil collection is enriched with natural ingredients such as certified organic and fair trade shea butter, manuka honey, mafura, baobab oils and fig extract.
“These ingredients are blended in rich hair recipes that provide a boost of hydration, which can help protect hair in harsh environmental conditions. Honey is a natural humectant, known to draw moisture into the hair while promoting shine,” explains Chung.
“Manuka Honey comes from the bees that pollinate the tea tree and is believed to have added scalp health benefits. In our hair recipes, mafura oil nourishes, softens and serves as a conditioner, while baobab and fig extract deliver antioxidants. When used as a regimen, the collection helps to restore the vitality of dry, lifeless and damaged coily hair.”
All SheaMoisture collections are crafted with “culturally relevant” natural ingredients, proven to provide solutions for curls, coils and the scalp, she concludes.
By Nicole Kerr
