Supplier’s Day 2023: Beauty sector players exhibit next-gen probiotics, texturizing agents and digital tools

02 May 2023 --- Global skin and hair care sector solutions providers are set to convene at the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day (May 2-3) at the Javits Center in New York City. At the event, companies will be spotlighting their probiotic skin solutions, alongside bio-based hair care developments and fragrance technologies, among others.

NYSCC has revealed its educational program for Suppliers’ Day, which will spotlight the latest trends, scientific findings, global ingredients, raw materials and solutions that will invigorate and accelerate beauty and personal care product developments.

Curated by the NYSCC Scientific Committee, the program will offer close to 100 hours of educational programing on the topics that are most pressing to those involved in formulations, sourcing and marketing beauty and personal care products.

“The theme ‘Reimagining Renewal & Wellness’ will be evident throughout Suppliers’ Day by focusing on all elements that foster renewal and will shine a light on sustainable beauty,” says Stacey House, chair at NYSCC.

“The event will bridge how wellness, and eco-consciousness touches all areas of the industry and impacts new product development and business success.”

The finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award for Ingredients & Formulation will be revealed at the NYSCC Industry Awards Night celebration on May 2.

Insights into microbiome formulas, AI and the blockchain
The event will include a Fireside Chat on green sciences and sustainable formulation with experts from a leading global beauty manufacturer. It will also feature technical courses by the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee that take deep dives into hair and scalp renewal, and biotechnology in beauty and personal care.

A session on the “Digital Age of Beauty” will focus on key strategies, digital tools and innovative technologies that influence product development, as well as speed to market solutions leveraging AI and blockchain.

In the “Microbiome: Inside Out Beauty,” experts will share their perspectives and insights on microbiome health from head to toe, including oral and vaginal innovations.

The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) along with the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) will host a session titled “Reimagining, Renewal, & Wellness: Modernizing Cosmetics Regulations.”

A session titled “INDIE 360” will cover every angle of launching and sustaining a brand and featuring a panel of founders sharing their stories including the challenges, opportunities and journeys to success.

Two “lunch and learn” sessions sponsored by industry partners include “Natural Ingredients, More Tech and Science Needed: A Discussion with the Experts” and “Catching China’s Beauty Trends.”

A session called “Fragrance: The Invisible Art” is also returning to Suppliers’ Day and brings together expert perspectives from the essential players in crafting the “invisible art.”

Popular program tracks, opened to all attendees, will focus on green issues and reducing waste with Discover Sustainability, global sourcing and marketing trends from World of Chemistry; IBA’s Regulatory & Compliance Update; Innovations from the Exhibit Floor; and “Hot Topics” offering lightning sessions on oral care, DE&I, color, influencers, legal watch outs, and sustainable packaging.

For the first time there will be an Influencer Chemist Panel on the topic of “Truth in Beauty” featuring The Eco Well, Chemist Confessions and Javon Ford, among others.

Courses will also be held on the topics of “Formulating Natural Oils and Butters for the Cosmetics Industry” and “Introduction to Sensory Characterization of Cosmetic Emulsions.” Suppliers’ Day will host a Future Chemists Workshop and hold a Mentor Lunch Mixer and Career Development Session.

The finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award for Ingredients & Formulation will be revealed at the NYSCC Industry Awards Night celebration on May 2.

Natural biopolymers and probiotics
BASF’s Care Chemicals division will be exhibiting its Care 360⁰ range of products under the theme “Reimagine what matters.”

“As part of a greater movement to focus on what’s important and form deeper connections, consumers want visibility into their brand’s sustainability efforts, starting with the ingredients,” comments Nader Mahmoud, vice president of BASF’s Personal Care Solutions North America division.

“With our commitment to renewal and wellness as well as sustainable, traceable and innovative ingredients, we are helping formulators provide their customers with what they expect from their personal care products.”

Under Care 360⁰, BASF’s Verdessence portfolio is a wide range of biopolymers suitable for applications such as hair care, skin care, oral care and color cosmetics. The ingredients in this portfolio are biobased, biodegradable and COSMOS-approved.

BASF’s Care Chemicals division will be exhibiting its Care 360⁰ range of products under the theme “Reimagine what matters.”

In addition to its actives portfolio, BASF will showcase two new, innovative bioactive ingredients based on harnessing beneficial bacteria, Lactobacillus crispatus – Probiolift probiotic and Postbiolift postbiotic.

Labeled as “true-living” and non-living solutions, respectively, these ingredients support the appearance of younger, fuller and more elastic skin.

BASF will also feature its broad emulsifier portfolio that consists of single-ingredient emulsifiers and emulsion bases. These bases include co-emulsifiers and waxes.

The company highlights its new non-ethoxylated, polyglycerol emulsifier for oil and water formulations, Emulgade Verde 10MS, which is a naturally derived, readily biodegradable and versatile ingredient in many personal care applications.

Addressing consumers’ demand for opacifying and pearlizing effects without using pigments, BASF will present its first wax-based pearlizer, Euperlan NL Pearl.

“Not only is it biodegradable and COSMOS-approved, but also suitable for essential oil-free and sulfate surfactant alternative applications,” details the company. 

The ingredient has outstanding attributes in hair care applications, especially on wet and dry combing tests, anti-hair breakage measurements and suppleness tests.

Finally, BASF will highlight its various digital solutions such as Itz Traceable, which enables an end-to-end traceability solution through blockchain technology. It will also present the D’lite digital subscription service, a digital solution that combines market insight with scientific knowledge to accelerate market analysis and product development processes.

Bio-based hair solutions and sensory items
Solvay will be exhibiting its Polycare Heat Therapy, a bio-based active ingredient for transparent formulations that protects and cares for hair when exposed to extreme temperatures.

The solution is a non-ecotoxic double-derivatized cationic guar suitable for transparent formulations that form a natural shield. It creates an “invisible and imperceptible barrier” on the hair surface that helps maintain the physical and sensory qualities of the hair, thus avoiding damage when using heat devices.

Polycare Heat Therapy brings greater protection to hair by maintaining a great density and it helps to avoid the protein unfolding reaction (denaturation) at higher temperatures. The ingredient decreases the damage linked to the use of flat iron by 30%, according to Solvay. This helps hair stay strong and healthy even after repeated heat styling.

At Supplier’s Day, Solvay will also feature its Mirasoft SL sophorolipids, which are multi-functional, 100% natural and biodegradable surfactants produced by fermentation, delivering skin, hair and scalp health benefits, on top of their surfactant properties. 

The series offers two variants, a lactonic-rich biosurfactant, Mirasoft SL L60, and an acidic-rich biosurfactant, Mirasoft SL A60. Both are highly active (55-65%) and share the same INCI nomenclature, glycolipids. 

From the literature data, the lactonic-rich form, Mirasoft SL L60, is expected to be the variant with the highest efficacy with respect to improving skin and scalp conditions, such as the inhibition of bad microorganisms and sebum regulation. Investigations on these aspects are currently ongoing. 

Mirasoft SLs can be used in a broad range of applications: facial cleanser, micellar water, scalp treatment, deodorant, hand soap, body wash, shampoo and wet wipes applications. While Mirasoft SL A60 targets normal and sensitive skin and scalp, it is expected that Mirasoft SL L60 is also suitable for acne-prone skin, oily skin and scalp and dandruff scalp.

Versatility of citrus fiber
Meanwhile, CP Kelco will be debuting its newest innovation, Kelcosens Citrus Fiber. Upcycled from citrus peels, the next-generation ingredient technology helps formulators stabilize emulsifier-free skin care products and elevate texture.

The company invites visitors to play at its “texture bar” and test a range of prototypes. Attendees will be able to experiment with a range of textures using CP Kelco’s flexible chassis formulations and go from silky, water-thin to creamy and luxe just by switching the bio-based ingredient options.

The company will also host a technical seminar at the Show Floor Innovations Theater. 

By Benjamin Ferrer