Symrise isolates functional oat compound for soothing and moisturizing sensitive skin
12 Sep 2023 --- With the number of consumers dealing with signs of sensitive skin steadily increasing, according to Symrise, the German ingredient supplier has unveiled SymCalmin Avena. The new cosmetic ingredient is made from certified organic oats and can help soothe the skin and regulate its moisture balance, while respecting the microbiome.
The product’s effectiveness is “on par with that of established substances,” Symrise claims. It is designed to be formulated into all cosmetics, especially skin and body care and hygiene products.
“It took three years to develop this active ingredient. One of the milestones included investigating its mechanism of action. Based on new scientific research, Symrise could prove that SymCalmin Avena targets MRGPRX2,” Nathalie Chevrot, global category director of Skin Actives at Symrise, tells Personal Care Insights.
“This important mast cell receptor acts as a key modulator of neuro-immune interaction, especially linked with itchy skin sensation.”
Oats naturally produce avenanthramides, which are known for their skin-soothing properties.Sourced locally from oats from Germany, SymCalmin Avena also scores points for its sustainability. It has received the COSMOS certificate for its organic ingredient base.
“Short distances improve our CO2 balance because we process the ingredients in geographic proximity to the producer,” comments Lili Baraton, global product manager for Soothing Actives at Symrise.
Botanical soothing defense
Used regularly, the active ingredient promises to relieve itching and burning, while reducing feelings of tension and stinging. It works well with all sensitive skin types, from occasionally sensitive to atopic-prone skin, Symrise maintains.
SymCalmin Avena can help relieve sensitive skin symptoms such as itching, tightness or redness. It can help prevent dryness, make the skin more comfortable and visibly reduce redness.
The ingredient contains a highly concentrated content of avenanthramides (200 to 250 ppm). Avenanthramides, the natural active ingredients in oats, are known for their skin-soothing properties.
“SymCalmin Avena’s oats naturally produce avenanthramides to defend itself against pathogens,” explains Chevrot.
“This complex of phenolic compounds comes with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-itch and anti-irritant properties as demonstrated by many studies. Due to its composition of avenanthramides, lipids and proteins, oat forms the perfect ally for sensitive skin.”
Compared to a placebo, the product shows a visible decrease in skin redness after only one to two weeks, Symrise discloses. Further in vitro testing has shown that the cosmetic ingredient helps reduce the release of histamine, which is a signal of itching.
Patented SymTrap technology
Symrise extracts and concentrates the Avenanthramides from organic oats using its patented SymTrap technology, which uses natural solvents.
Compared to a placebo, the ingredient shows a visible decrease in skin redness after only one to two weeks, Symrise discloses“SymTrap is a specific process to concentrate substances, keeping only the useful elements and upcycling byproducts,” Chevrot highlights.
“In this process, we operate an adsorber column with a sustainable long-life resin technology.”
Adsorption is the process by which a solid holds molecules of a gas or liquid or solute as a thin film. An adsorber column is a device that removes unwanted substances from a liquid or gas by adsorption.
In an adsorber column, unwanted substances are adsorbed onto the surface of a resin.
Symrise’s sustainable long-life resin technology is designed to last longer than traditional resins – meaning less frequent replacement – which reduces the overall environmental impact of the adsorber column.
The SymTrap method has also previously been applied in perfumery, where it is used to collect scents from byproducts of food production. It also intensifies these naturals.
Symrise adds that SymCalmin Avena has a neutral color in the final formulation. “SymCalmin Avena does not affect the formula when it gets mixed with other ingredients,” notes Chevrot.
“Customers can request a technical tips and tricks sheet. If you want to use a chelating agent, we recommend sodium gluconate. In an emulsion, you may add SymCalmin Avena to the hot water phase before the emulsification step or at the end.”
By Benjamin Ferrer
