Berg⁺Schmidt debuts upcycled emulsifier for natural cosmetics at SEPAWA Congress 2023

26 Sep 2023 --- Berg+Schmidt has launched an emulsifier for environmentally sustainable and natural cosmetic products. The plant-based emulsifier, branded BergaMuls ET2, offers rheological properties that generate a positive skin feel.

Upcycled dietary fibers from gum or cellulose are processed to a powder, creating different functionalities within the formulation. Sourced from oat, wood and guar gum, BergaMuls ET2 comprises water-soluble and -insoluble components supporting emulsion stability and viscosity.

“With consumers becoming increasingly aware of what is contained in their cosmetic products, we can help users and manufacturers make an eco-responsible choice for a highly effective end product,” says Kristin Köhler, division manager of Cosmetics at Berg+Schmidt.

“The new BergaMuls ET2 upcycled from food by-products meets a zero waste policy, circularity and sustainable approaches. In addition, it is a water-free, vegan raw material and, therefore, ideal for tomorrow’s eco-conscious cosmetic formulations.”

Redesigning emulsifiers
BergaMuls ET2 is the latest product of the company’s range of fiber-based emulsifiers, which started a decade ago with BergaMuls ET1 – a thickener for a range of applications, including oil-free serum formulations or a sensorial additive in emulsion products.

BergaMuls ET2 emulsifier can be used for cream products.Both ingredients enhance the sensory aspect of multiple nourishing formulations and come in a powder comprising dried and milled, all-natural fibers. The ingredients are sourced through environmentally sustainable methods from abundant and drought-resistant materials.

The emulsifier uses a dual mode of action, giving it beneficial qualities as an oil-in-water (o/w) emulsifier and stabilizer. In contrast to traditional emulsifiers for natural cosmetics, BergaMuls ET2 is not esterified but cold-processible, making it less likely to create soaping effects.

Typically used in a concentration between 1 to 3%, the viscosity of an o/w emulsion increases linearly with the size of the oil phase.

Consequently, BergaMuls ET2 allows for the formulation of products ranging from light, translucent and cream gels to soothing lotions and compact creams.

Berg+Schmidt says that the BergaMuls products are “extremely gentle on the skin barrier as they do not exhibit surface activity, which makes them suitable for emulsifier-free concepts.”

BergaMuls ET2 will be presented for the first time at SEPAWA Congress 2023 in Berlin, Germany, from October 25 to 27. Company members will explain and demonstrate processing options for various personal care applications. They will illustrate how the ingredients can be customized to meet individual needs, providing innovative, environmentally friendly, safe and functional solutions.

By Sabine Waldeck

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