Cargill launches eco-friendly kappa carrageenan texturizer for gelling and solid formulations

26 Oct 2021 --- Cargill is expanding its portfolio of carrageenans with the addition of kappa carrageenan, branded Satiagel VPC614, specifically suited for high gelling applications and solid formulations. This addition taps into consumer demand for eco-friendly personal care products, combining sustainable sourcing with performance and versatility.

“Kappa carrageenan gives personal care brands a nature-based texturizing solution. It’s derived from seaweed, not petrochemicals – natural sourcing that appeals to consumers,” Jean-Noel Ollagnier, R&D manager of applications at Cargill Beauty, tells PersonalCareInsights.

“Kappa carrageenans bring functionality to formulas as they form strong gels, making them a good choice for high gelling applications and solid skincare solutions.”

Blending the new ingredient with Cargill’s existing iota and lambda carrageenan grades opens the door to even greater sensory exploration, enabling brands to form original and inspirational textures, from textured waters to solid gels.

“Kappa carrageenan is used in things like face sheet masks and solid skincare solutions. Iota carrageenan is a gelling agent found in hair-styling products and shaving gels, while Lambda carrageenan is more of a thickening ingredient typically used in micellar waters or serums,” continues Ollagnier.

“However, the true strength of Cargill’s complete carrageenan line lies in using these ingredients in various combinations to create seemingly limitless textural combinations, from textured waters to solid gels,” he adds.

Increasing formulation potential
While carrageenans are all linear sulfated polysaccharides, the three main types – kappa, iota and lambda – bring unique texturizing qualities, determined by their distinct molecular structure.

The expanded versatility of combining iota, lambda and kappa carrageenans enables formulators to incorporate carrageenans into a wide array of products, including serums, emulsions, creams, lotions, body washes, shampoos and hair-styling gels, as well as toothpaste and mouthwash.Kappa carrageenan is suitable for use in face sheet masks, as well as gel and solid skincare solutions.

“When used in combination with our Iota and Lambda carrageenans, the textural possibilities expand even further, as formulators can tap into a wide range of viscosities, gelling and thickening properties,” explains Ollagnier.

“Kappa is known for strong, brittle gels that are thermoreversible. Iota carrageenans form softer, more elastic gels that thin under shear but quickly return to a more dense state, making them great for pumping. Lambda carrageenan creates thick, creamy solutions.”

Combinations of these carrageenans make it possible to create novel textures, from transparent shower jellies that melt on the skin when exposed to hot water to smooth, pumpable serums with easily breakable structures for a water application, Ollagnier notes.

Catering to eco-conscious consumers
The botanically sourced carrageenan ingredients align with consumer desires for more natural cosmetic products with cleaner labels.

All three carrageenan ranges have the same International Nomenclature Cosmetic ingredient reference, helping personal care manufacturers minimize the number of ingredients listed on product labels.

Today’s eco-conscious consumers are looking for personal care products made with natural ingredients, details Ollagnier.

“Carrageenans, sourced exclusively from seaweed, align with those expectations. Cargill takes sustainability a step further with its ‘Red Seaweed Promise,’ – a program that supports seaweed producers’ prosperity and prompts the adoption of sustainable seaweed farming practices.”

The Red Seaweed Promise program addresses critical challenges in producing and harvesting red seaweeds in close partnerships with farmers.Formulators need to blend kappa and lambda carrageenans to create cream formulations.

It supports seaweed producers’ prosperity by providing the training, coaching and tools they need to adopt environmental production best practices, supporting sustainable marine and coastal ecosystems.

Understanding carrageenans
Whether carrageenans are used alone or in combination depends on the desired sensory profile, explains Ollagnier.

Cargill’s kappa carrageenan is a gelling agent with one sulfate unit for two sugar units. It requires high temperatures – 60-70°C – to disperse in water, forming an ecliptic, three-dimensional network.

Adding salt, most often potassium ions, partially neutralizes its sulfate groups, enabling its double helixes to cluster together and form aggregates that create strong, brittle gels with a short texture.

“For a solid skincare solution, kappa carrageenan might be all that’s necessary to create the preferred texture. However, to create a cushion cream, formulators might use a blend of kappa and lambda carrageenans,” Ollagnier adds.

Iota carrageenan is another gelling agent, with two sulfate units for two sugar units. It disperses in water heated to 60-70°C, forming a gel with a porous, elastic network. Adding salt, most often calcium ions, strengthens this structure, increasing viscosity.

However, with twice as many sulfate units as kappa carrageenan, this network is less dense, creating softer, more elastic gels. It also exhibits thixotropic behavior, thinning under shear but quickly returning to a more dense state once the mechanical stress is removed.

Lastly, with three sulfate units for two sugar units, the lambda carrageenan acts as a thickener. It is the only carrageenan soluble in cold water, making it well suited for personal care applications where no heat processing is desired.

Lambda carrageenan’s high number of sulfates prevents the formation of a three-dimensional network.

Instead, this carrageenan serves as a thickener, creating viscous solutions that are not impacted by salt addition.

Its profile makes it easy to apply and provides a fresh sensory feeling on the skin, the company concludes.

By Nicole Kerr