Chemyunion’s tripeptide for oily skin targets excess sebum production

Chemyunion’s tripeptide Peptid4 S-Control addresses oily skin independently of hormonal pathways. Oily skin affects 35% of the population and causes excess sebum production, acne, and enlarged pores — some of the most common concerns globally. 

The company stresses that excess sebum has been linked to emotional concerns such as low self-esteem and frustration, and is the main target area of the ingredient. 

Personal Care Insights speaks with Mariana Yamamoto, global skin care products manager at Chemyunion, about how the product addresses this common skin condition while avoiding traditional hormonal pathways and tapping into environmental sustainability. 

“Beyond efficacy, this new tripeptide is produced through a green and safe synthetic process aligned with 10 of the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry, reflecting a commitment to sustainability and product safety,” says Yamamoto. 

She details that Peptid4 S-Control contains 99% natural origin content (as per ISO 16128), is vegan-friendly, and demonstrates high stability across a wide pH and temperature range. 

“This makes a powerful addition to clean beauty and eco-conscious formulations,” she says. 

Sebum production

Peptid4 S-Control was specifically designed to address excessive sebum production.

The tripeptide’s mechanism offers an immediate and long-term reduction in oiliness, making it suitable for products targeting shine control and skin texture refinement.

Peptid4 S-Control was designed to address excessive sebum production.“Unlike most sebum-control ingredients that act indirectly by inhibiting the enzyme 5α-reductase, often associated with hormonal pathways like dihydrotestosterone (DHT), Peptid4 S-Control introduces a new class of action by targeting the melanocortin 5 receptor (MC5R),” Yamamoto says.

“This receptor is directly involved in sebocyte activity and sebum production. By interacting with MC5R, our tripeptide achieves faster and more consistent results across all age groups.”

According to Yamamoto, clinical tests showed a 15% reduction in oiliness four hours after application, and up to 30% after 14 and 28 days — surpassing the benchmark ingredients that rely on 5α-reductase inhibition.

“Furthermore, since MC5R expression persists even as androgen levels decline with age, this mechanism remains effective in mature skin. Thus, MC5R antagonists represent a safer, more targeted, and potentially longer-lasting alternative to traditional hormonal pathway inhibitors for managing oily skin.”

Biological explanation

Biologically, Peptid4 S-Control is a synthetic tripeptide designed to bind to the MC5R receptor on sebum-producing cells.

“This direct mechanism regulates intracellular lipogenesis, as demonstrated in vitro by a 28% inhibition of lipid droplet formation in human sebocytes, along with reduced expression of key genes involved in sebum synthesis, such as PLIN2, c-MYC, and SCD-1,” says Yamamoto.

PLIN2 is involved in storing fat in droplets, c-MYC regulates cell growth and metabolism, and SCD-1 is involved in synthesizing fatty acids. Therefore, the tripeptide lowers fat production in skin oil-producing cells. 

Yamamoto explains that these peptides create significantly lower sebum levels and smaller pores on the skin, as confirmed by advanced 3D scanning and Sebumeter analyses (a tool for assessing sebum levels on the skin’s surface) in clinical trials.