Cyanobacteria stand out in sustainable applications for antioxidant and anti-aging cosmetics

21 Dec 2022 --- A Portugal-based study reveals that cyanobacteria strains are grabbing the spotlight regarding cosmetic purposes and sustainability. The studied strains show antioxidant activity and contained photoprotective compounds and carotenoids, which have anti-aging and skin protective properties.

“Overall, the results obtained drive the studies on cyanobacteria toward the cosmetic industry as a promising source of natural extracts with potential in cosmetic formulations,” note the study authors from the University of Porto and Polytechnic Institute of Porto, Portugal.

Furthermore, the researchers highlight that nature-based and sustainably sourced cosmetics are proliferating globally, especially in the skincare segment. Since compounds from cyanobacteria provide antioxidant and anti-aging benefits such as phycobiliproteins, they may replace synthetic ingredients in formulations and may be used in sunscreens, skincare creams and makeup.

Cyanobacteria are described to be widespread, existing even in life-threatening conditions like high temperatures, high salinity and extreme solar radiation.

They are, therefore, very adaptable and have a “remarkable secondary metabolism.” This brings various metabolites with proven pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and food-conservation potential.

“Considering skin-related needs, the production of carotenoids, phenolic compounds, phycobiliproteins, mycosporin-like amino acids and scytonemin places these organisms at the forefront of healthy skincare,” share the authors.

“All these molecules play a central role as anti-aging ingredients, mainly due to their antioxidant potential, sun-protection capacity, and ability to inhibit enzymes responsible for the degradation of the extracellular matrix.”

Economically attractive biomass
Previous studies have shown that cyanobacteria can protect themselves from extreme environmental conditions. They also produce phenolic compounds and phycobiliproteins that help them survive.

The new study evaluated extracts from cyanobacteria strains of the genera Cyanobium and Leptothoe and strains within Synechococcales and Oscillatoriales orders.

Cyanobacteria provide antioxidant and anti-aging compounds.The researchers extracted the different strains from the same biomass. “This increases biomass rentability, has a lower environmental impact and becomes economically attractive,” the authors highlight.

“The aqueous extracts of Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181157 and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181150 strains, rich in phycobiliproteins, showed antioxidant activity, reaching an attractive IC50 for superoxide radical scavenging.”

Cosmetic applications
The extracts from cyanobacteria were able to inhibit the enzyme HAase. Under oxidative stress, an inflammatory response activates collagenase, elastase and HAase. This reaction promotes wrinkle formation.

Oxidative stress also triggers and activates matrix metalloproteinases, namely collagenases, elastases and hyaluronidases. These cause the degradation of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid – the main components of the extracellular matrix – essential for maintaining skin elasticity, firmness and regeneration, according to the researchers.

Furthermore, photoprotective compounds were the major components in the aqueous extracts. The researchers suggest that natural and attractive colors add value to cosmetic products.

“Phenols and carotenoids present in the acetonic extracts, especially in Leptothoe sp. LEGE 181156 and Synechococcales cyanobacterium LEGE 181150 demonstrated potential to preserve dermal matrix components,” note the authors.

“The strains belonging to Synechococcales cyanobacterium order, Compounds from cyanobacteria may replace synthetic ingredients.followed by Leptothoe sp. LEGE 181156, showed the best results for free-radical sequestration. However, the values were much higher than those of the aqueous extract. These acetonic extracts are richer in carotenoids than aqueous extracts.”

In other words, extracts that are richer in protein are effective for free radicals scavenging and are, therefore, better against oxidative stress. Meanwhile, acetonic extracts are richer in carotenoids and phenols and are more effective as enzyme inhibitors.

“Regarding phenolic compounds, it seems that they contribute to both biological activities evaluated,” continue the authors.

Bacteria bound solutions
The industry is increasingly turning toward nature-based or natural cosmetics, so they research microorganisms for bio-based alternatives.

Researchers from Ulster University, Ireland, recently found that natural surfactants like microbial glycolipids could provide a safer and more suitable option to sodium lauryl ether sulfate in skincare applications.

Additionally, the signals and interactions between microalgae and bacteria have been found to produce multifunctional bioproducts compliant with current economic and low-carbon guidelines for environmental protection found in a Brazil-based study. As a result, the researchers highlighted possibilities for developing dermatological formulations for skincare creams or gels and treating acne.

By Venya Patel

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