Fragrance heritage: Scientists discover chemicals in ancient perfume from Roman times

26 Jul 2023 --- Spain-based researchers have unearthed a perfume’s chemical composition dating back to Roman times, which “may be the first time a perfume from that era has been identified.” There is not much known about the chemical composition of perfumes, nor its substances from that time, note the authors. Available research has only been able to identify ointment or cosmetic bases, but not essences.

The scientists discovered an amphora-shaped ointment jar (unguentarium) made of quartz crystal, tightly sealed with a stopper in a Roman tomb in Carmona, Spain. This raised questions as the material was a rare luxury during ancient Roman times. As it was sealed well, remnants of a “solid mass” were preserved.

Revealing ancient ingredients
The scientists found that the ointment jar featured an essential oil containing a sesquiterpene fraction and fatty acids. They associated these compounds with patchouli and fat.

(d) Image of glass urn in which ointment jar was found.Information from classical texts showcases that perfumes contained essential oils made from flowers like rose or jasmine, roots and resins such as myrrh or incense. However, the researchers do not think these were used in the perfume as their chemical composition differed from patchouli and nard oil.

Using gas chromatography–mass spectrometry as a method of analysis, the scientists suggest the perfume likely contained patchouli.

In addition, beta-sitosterol, vegetable fat stigmasterol and squalene were also detected.

Beta-sitosterol is found in plants, and its chemical structure is similar to cholesterol, according to the INCI guide. “It is a valued ingredient in skin care preparations thanks to many beneficial effects on the skin, including anti-aging, immunomodulatory, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing and antioxidant action.”

Squalene is a commonly featured skin care ingredient, which protects skin surfaces from lipid peroxidation – when healthy fats in the skin are damaged – commonly caused by UV light exposure, free radicals and other oxidative stressors.

“The results are consistent with classical works according to which a perfume consisted of at least two different substances: an essential oil (or the plant leaves from which it was extracted) and a fatty material,” share the authors. 

Luxurious packaging
The bottle is the first to be reported using bitumen as a sealing agent and dolomite mineral as a waterproof stopper.

“Using bitumen to seal and waterproof the dolomite stopper was quite plausible since the unguentarium might have been made in a perfume workshop from another place in the Roman empire and subsequently purchased by the owners of the tomb,” think the researchers.

Although these findings are a “great archeological development,” the discovery also adds to the heritage of the fragrance industry.

In related articles, Personal Care Insights tracked new product developments driven by the ancient Indian science of Ayurveda that focuses on holistic healing.

By Venya Patel