Herbal formulations tap into antibacterial, moisturizing and oil-reducing properties of botanicals

20 Nov 2023 --- Botanical solutions are seeing expanded use in formulations from emergent brands and established skin care names alike, catering to consumers gravitating to “natural” and “clean” on-pack claims. Personal Care Insights consolidates the latest developments in the field of green cosmetology, which now includes antibacterial essential oils, herbal humectants and cannabinoids in cosmetics and oral care products.

Halitosis, an irritating breath odor and, often a source of social discomfort, finds relief in an unconventional source — essential oils. A recent study has shown promising antibacterial capabilities in essential oils derived from Ma-kwean fruit, clove bud, star anise fruit and cinnamon bark. 

The research, published in the journal Cosmetics, evaluated their efficacy against bacteria causing bad breath and biofilm formation.

A recent oral care study has shown promising antibacterial capabilities in essential oils derived from Ma-kwean fruit, clove bud, star anise fruit and cinnamon bark.“Chlorhexidine, a powerful antimicrobial agent effective against bacteria and fungi, has become the standard treatment for halitosis,” comment the researchers. “However, it has drawbacks, including altered taste perception, dry mouth and more noticeable dental staining. The use of natural essential oils to avoid these unwanted effects has proven to be an attractive strategy.”

The extraction process produced oils with varying yields: Ma-kwean (6.58%), clove bud (12.21%), star anise (4.29%) and cinnamon bark (1.26%). 

Chemical analysis revealed differing compositions, with Ma-kwean rich in terpinene-4-ol and limonene, while clove bud, star anise and cinnamon bark contained eugenol, anethol and trans-cinnamaldehyde, respectively.

Results showcased cinnamon bark and clove bud oils as potent against Streptococcus mutans [tooth decayer] and Solobacterium moorei [halitosis contributor], while Ma-kwean and star anise exhibited lower efficacy. Additionally, all oils demonstrated biofilm suppression at varying concentrations.

The study highlights clove bud’s effectiveness akin to cinnamon bark against S. moorei, offering the potential for enhanced oral care products.

Notably, this study stands as the first to compare these essential oils’ antibacterial and biofilm properties against cinnamon bark oil.

Further research and clinical trials are suggested to gauge the effectiveness, taste and odor acceptability of these essential oils in treating halitosis.

Boosting moisturization factor in facial toners
Other scientific research has explored the potential of Houttuynia cordata Thunb extract (HCE) — also known as the chameleon plant or fish mint — as a key ingredient in a novel facial toner. This research aimed to create an oil-controlling and moisturizing toner utilizing HCE, uncovering significant benefits for facial skin.

“The ultimate goal of this research was to develop an oil-controlling and moisture-adding facial toner product containing H. cordata and to confirm its anti-sebum efficacy and hydration effects by conducting clinical trials on volunteers,” comment the researchers.

 Scientists explored the potential of Houttuynia cordata Thunb extract — also known as the chameleon plant or fish mint — as a key ingredient in a novel facial toner.Clinical trials conducted over eight weeks showcased promising results in oil reduction and increased skin hydration after using the developed HCE toner. The HCE toner demonstrated a 4.6-fold decrease in sebum levels compared to HCE-free toners, significantly benefiting oil-prone skin conditions.

The increased skin moisture content observed after using the HCE toner was equally notable, showing a 2 to 1.4-fold rise compared to its HCE-free counterpart. This improvement in skin hydration might be attributed to polysaccharides found in HCE, known for their humectant properties, aiding the skin in retaining moisture.

Quercetin, a flavonoid present in the HCE extract, appeared to contribute to the reduction of sebum levels, aligning with previous reports of H. cordata extract’s efficacy for oiliness and acne-prone skin.

The study not only highlights the potential of HCE as a premium skin care ingredient but also emphasizes its readiness to become a commercially viable product.

HCE contains humectants and has been evidenced in previous research to also offer powerful anti-allergic properties and is beneficial for dermatitis- and eczema-prone skin.

Cannabinoids in cosmetics
In another investigation of emergent herbal solutions in skin care, a recent comprehensive review shed light on the potential efficacy of cannabinoid products — sourced from hemp and cannabis plants — in managing various hair, scalp and skin conditions. The study encompassed 18 original articles involving 1,090 patients.

Researchers analyzed data from multiple studies conducted before February 2023, focusing on the application of cannabinoids, particularly cannabidiol (CBD), dronabinol, lenabasum and hempseed oil, for treating dermatologic conditions. Among the forms studied, topical CBD emerged as the most frequently used treatment.

The study findings highlighted moderate-quality evidence supporting the effectiveness of cannabinoids in managing conditions such as atopic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, psoriasis and systemic sclerosis.

A study highlighted moderate-quality evidence supporting the effectiveness of cannabinoids in managing conditions such as atopic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, psoriasis and systemic sclerosis.However, while cannabinoids showcased promise in addressing specific inflammatory skin conditions, the evidence remains limited. The study emphasized the lack of standardized dosage and administration methods for these products, underscoring the need for large-scale randomized controlled trials and further research with consistent treatment protocols.

Cannabinoids interact with the body’s endocannabinoid system, targeting cannabinoid receptors like CB1 and CB2, which are involved in regulating skin homeostasis.

While CB2 receptors are expressed in various skin components, including keratinocytes and sweat glands, their activation has demonstrated potential in reducing inflammation, pain and itch without the psychoactive effects associated with delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) — the psychoactive component in cannabis.

The study’s outcomes provide insights into the potential of cannabinoids for managing inflammatory dermatologic conditions, but rigorous clinical trials are crucial for establishing their safety and efficacy with standardized treatment regimens. 

The lack of standardized dosing and application methods necessitates further research to unlock the full therapeutic potential of cannabinoids in dermatology, the authors suggest.

By Benjamin Ferrer