L’Oréal, Unilever and Kao’s latest venture zeroes in on novel bio-based beauty ingredients

21 Mar 2023 --- With aims to advance the reduction of the environmental footprint of the beauty industry, L’Oréal has linked up with Unilever and Kao, undertaking a new venture to craft new sustainable beauty ingredients derived from living organisms.

Supported by Geno, a biotechnology company, the project will roll out its solutions across various L’Oréal products, marking a “significant leap” towards the company’s goal of 100% eco-designed formulas and ingredients that are 95% derived from renewable or abundant sources.

Through Geno’s biotechnology expertise, L’Oréal will replace traditional ingredients with bio-based alternatives, such as those made from plant-based sugars.

Through Geno’s biotechnology expertise, L’Oréal will replace traditional ingredients with bio-based alternatives, such as those made from plant-based sugars.“Welcoming L’Oréal to this incredible team of global brand heavyweights signifies just how important and urgent the need is for traceable, resilient and sustainable materials, at scale. L’Oréal’s commitment further accelerates Geno’s goal to reduce global carbon emissions by over 100 million metric tons in the upcoming years by targeting massive scale material markets,” says Christophe Schilling, CEO at Geno.

“We have proven that impact is possible at scale,” he notes. “This partnership will further catapult our venture’s mission to the global scale required to meet soaring market demand for sustainable products.”

“We’re energized to help L’Oréal’s achieve its bold 2030 goals of incorporating 95% bio-based ingredients for formulas and using packaging materials that are traceable and from sustainable sources.”

In September, Geno welcomed Kao to its US$120 million venture to scale and commercialize plant-based alternatives to controversial palm kernel oil. The initative was undertaken by Unilever in January 2022.

Green and clean beauty revolution
Biotechnology is one of the four L’Oréal Green Sciences disciplines focusing on harnessing living organisms to supply raw materials while respecting biodiversity, natural resources and aquatic ecosystems.

The trend has been gathering pace across the beauty sector, propelled by scientific advancements. Among recent examples, microbiology merged with perfumery, creating “natural but cruelty-free” scents using microbes rather than the usual animal and plant sources.

Elsewhere, scientists have been further harnessing microbial activities for synthesizing new potent ingredients, while microalgae-based pigments in clean label formulas are exhibiting expanded potential for their heat stability and vibrant color.

“At L’Oréal, we believe that science has the power to create a better world, and we are committed to using our expertise to drive positive change in the beauty industry. That’s why we have made Green Sciences the cornerstone of our research,” says Barbara Lavernos, deputy CEO in charge of research, innovation and technology at L’Oréal.

“We are thrilled to partner with Geno, whose unique approach to developing alternative, biotechnology-based ingredients aligns perfectly with our vision of a more sustainable future. By working together with other beauty players, we can leverage our collective expertise and resources wherever our combined efforts can have a meaningful impact.”

By Benjamin Ferrer

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