Next-generation retinoids: Conagen produces natural, non-irritating retinol ingredients from precision fermentation

25 Aug 2023 --- Bioplatform innovator and biomanufacturer Conagen has developed a “first-of-its-kind,” natural-sourced class of sustainable retinoid-derivative ingredients through precision fermentation. These solutions are created by covalently binding retinoids with another cosmetic active ingredient into a single molecule, allowing for additional skin care functions to included in the formula.

“This achievement in new retinol active ingredients reshapes beauty and personal care applications,” states the company. “It presents opportunities for inventive features that uniquely enhance cosmetic formulations.”

“Conagen is ready to commercialize these retinoid ingredients in 2024,” remarks Yisheng Wu, Ph.D., VP of Conagen’s Flavors and Fragrances divisions. “Beauty and personal care brands seeking the newest technology in retinol formulation flexibility are encouraged to explore Conagen’s retinoid ingredients.”

According to Innova Market Insights, online consumer searches for retinol in beauty and personal care are rising.

With approximately 1 million tags on Instagram and a growing trend, the demand for this anti-aging active ingredient continues to surge. Innova's global report highlights consumers prioritizing anti-aging and anti-acne properties in skincare, followed by blemish reduction.

The precision fermentation-based retinol by Conagen fuses retinol and a second complimentary ingredient for expanded functionalities beyond conventional retinol.Fusing retinol with cosmetic active ingredient
Precision fermentation-based retinol is in commercial circulation by players including Capra Biosciences and Givaudan. But Conagen’s ingredient fuses retinol and a second complementary ingredient, to offer consumers functionalities that extend beyond wrinkle reduction and anti-aging benefits, which retinol is primarily used for.

“A notable feature of Conagen's innovative retinoid variants is their adaptability. Depending on the selected partner for pipeline integration, these compounds introduce flexibility, enabling cosmetic formulators to incorporate a secondary function,” states Conagen.

Conagen’s new retinol innovation originates from the high-yield carotenoid platform led by Wu, who has worked on the project for years. This platform has yielded numerous widely utilized carotenoid compounds, including beta-carotene and astaxanthin. 

“By introducing additional steps in the metabolic pathway, Conagen can make retinol at high efficiency,” says the company. “This same versatile platform holds the potential to generate various flavors, fragrances and nutritional compounds derived from carotenoids, further underlining its significance.”

The retinol used is produced with a 100% renewable carbon source through the precision fermentation process. 

“This new development empowers cosmetic formulators to create products that excel in both performance and innovation, aligning with the ever-evolving demands of today’s discerning consumers,” said Wu.

“By providing enhanced stability, controlled release and multifunctional capabilities, Conagen's retinoid derivatives redefine the possibilities within the cosmetic industry.”

Enhanced stability
Pushing the limits in creative beauty, Conagen’s primary achievement lies in the improved stability these retinoid derivatives provide. 

This enhanced stability enables cosmetic products to ensure a consistent and extended release of retinol, resulting in long-lasting effects on the skin. Traditional retinol is known to cause skin irritation, such as redness, dryness and peeling. 

Conagen’s retinol ingredients aid in the formulation of low-irritation retinol products. These ingredients are compatible with other compounds, such as squalene, bakuchiol and pomegranate extract, maximizing delivery and effectiveness while minimizing potential off-target effects.

“Conagen’s achievement underscores its steadfast commitment to pushing the boundaries of biotechnology and driving innovation,” says Wu. 

“As the cosmetic industry undergoes transformation toward clean and sustainable, Conagen remains at the forefront of transformative advancements, poised to contribute to a new era in cosmetic formulation.”

By Benjamin Ferrer