Weekly Roundup: Bvlgari turns brain waves into collectibles in fragrance launch, EveLab Insight pilots “Glow Detection”

24 Mar 2023 --- This week’s beauty sector developments reveal untapped dimensions of consumer engagement led by advancements in deep technologies. Bvlgari piloted a wearable device measuring brain waves – transformed into generative downloadable collectibles – as part of its fragrance launch in Dubai. Meanwhile, other launches include an aesthetic visualization tool by Galderma that simulates injectable treatment results in real-time, alongside EveLab Insight’s new “Glow Detection” feature within its skin diagnosis platform.

Deep tech meets beauty science
Bvlgari unveiled its Scentsorial project, which it describes as an “exclusive, out of the ordinary, olfactory experience” at the Dubai Mall in the United Arab Emirates. The Italian maison offers guests a multi-sensory journey to promote its Bvlgari Le Gemme Tygar fragrance from the Bvlgari Le Gemme collection, positioned as a “unique exploration of human thoughts and emotions.” Visitors are handed a wearable device that measures brainwaves, micro-movements and heartbeats, which detects reactions, thoughts and emotions. This specific personalized data is transformed in real time into generative downloadable collectibles. Tygar fragrance was crafted by perfumer Jacques Cavallier, combining a bursting fresh grapefruit accord with a “deep sophisticated ambrox accord” – based on Firmenich’s signature ambery odor with a musky, woody tonality.

At the Dubai Mall, Bvlgari piloted its wearable headset that transforms brain waves into downloadable collectibles, promoting its Le Gemme Tygar fragrance for men (Image credit: Bvlgari).Galderma launched Face by Galderma, an aesthetic visualization tool powered by augmented reality that allows aesthetic professionals and patients to visualize injectable treatment results at the planning stage before actual treatment begins. This innovative solution gives patients a simulated real-time “before and after” visual of what may be possible from an individualized treatment plan and may help alleviate patient concerns about injectable results. With the tool’s assessment, the aesthetic practitioner can evaluate the patient’s face, including skin quality, facial shape, facial proportion and contour, facial symmetry and animated and emotional expression. The tool further acts as a “patient passport,” allowing patients to access and view their individual patient profile from home.

Tech company Revieve – a specialist in digital skincare diagnosis and other virtual consumer engagement platforms – released a case study showcasing how its latest collaboration with skincare brand Yon-Ka has boosted business performance through its AI-powered skincare advisor technology. Since the launch of the experience in 2021, the brand has extensively promoted Skin Advisor across social media platforms, which helped them yield promising results. In just one year, Yon-Ka “almost doubled” its conversion rate. The brand has observed a tendency of its customers to be willing to spend more, while recording a 30% increase in the average order value among users engaging with Skin Advisor. It also notes Skin Advisor users are “five times more engaged” than regular web users.

Beauty business SaaS solutions provider EveLab Insight introduced the latest addition to its skin detection system – the “Glow Detection” feature. This new feature is designed to provide a more comprehensive analysis of skin’s health by examining three dimensions: oiliness condition, skin texture and evenness of skin tone. Based on the company’s research, the critical areas skincare enthusiasts pay attention to are skin texture and evenness of skin tone. With its new feature, the company aims to provide a more accurate reflection of skin’s condition and cater to consumers’ skincare needs better with personalized advice. The Glow Detection feature is now available in EveLab Insight’s skin analysis system.

Key business moves
Chemicals and ingredients distributor Brenntag acquired Singapore-headquartered Aik Moh Group, which offers a wide range of industrial chemicals, as well as mixing and blending services. The group also provides repacking, warehousing and logistics support with a focus on Southeast Asia. With this acquisition, Brenntag Essentials expands its business into key focus markets in Asia Pacific, including Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and the Philippines. The acquired business generated sales of approximately €76.6 million (US$82.4 million) in the financial year 2022 (ending March 31). Closing of the transaction is subject to certain contractual conditions and regulatory approvals. This is an additional step in Brenntag’s ongoing transformation process, driving its stringent execution of the Brenntag Essentials strategy to strengthen local capabilities and market coverage in high growth markets like Asia-Pacific.

EveLab Insight introduced the latest addition to its skin detection system – the “Glow Detection” feature (Image credit: EveLab Insight).Multipurpose cleaning brand Cif entered into a partnership with Scrub Daddy, maker of the smiley-faced, texture-changing sponge. The partnership is facilitated by the global business unit Unilever International, which will focus on the marketing and distribution of Cif Cream co-branded products. It will enable Cif to fast-track its entry into the cleaning tools segment, which is an entirely new area for the brand. This also serves as a way for Cif to enter the US market for the first time via digital commerce, with a view to unlocking future potential growth opportunities for the brand. Launched ten years ago, Scrub Daddy recently crossed the US$670 million mark in sales and its products are now available in more than 20 markets worldwide.

Clean skincare brand True Botanicals secured a Series B investment from NextWorld Evergreen, a San Francisco-based growth equity firm with a focus on conscious consumer brands. This partnership aims to accelerate True Botanicals’ retail footprint while advancing its mission around social and environmental impact. The company’s products are certified Made Safe, a rigorous and comprehensive ingredient safety certification, with formulas clinically proven to transform skin. True Botanicals’ top performing SKUs include Chebula Active Serum and Renew Pure Radiance Oil.

New ingredient and packaging launches
Royal DSM launched PARSOL DHHB – diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate – a UVA filter that contributes SPF protection. It is deemed compatible with all UVB filters on the market, such as zinc oxide and iron oxides, which makes it fit for purpose in hybrid formulations. To illustrate this, DSM formulators have designed two new formulations inspired by regional trends. Both the Daily Brightening Sun Milk SPF 50 and Antioxidant Sun Cream SPF 50 are Eco Class A formulations according to the DSM Sunscreen Optimizer 2.0, which is a free tool designed to help formulators develop effective sunscreens before conducting in vivo SPF tests.

In other sun care ingredient launches, Symrise unveiled SymEffect UV. The synergistic mixture of renewable ingredients enhances the effectiveness of organic and mineral UV filters. It is designed to help cosmetics manufacturers achieve higher protection at the same UV filters concentration in a product. The in vivo-tested UV protection booster can be easily incorporated into the oil phase of creams and lotions. SymEffect UV works well with emulsion based cosmetic products with sun protection factors, such as beach products, daily face creams and care products for children. Starting in spring 2023, cosmetics manufacturers can use this SPF enhancer in their products.

Cosmetics brand Lumene introduced a new set of water-based skincare products using Sulapac bio-based packaging jars (Image credit: Lumene).Cosmetics brand Lumene introduced a new set of water-based skincare products using Sulapac bio-based packaging jars. The items are Nordic-C [Valo] Glow Reveal Moisturizer and a new addition, Nordic-C [Valo] Overnight Bright Sleeping Cream. Sulapac’s jars are made of bio-based and biodegradable biopolymers, FSC certified wood sourced from forest industry side streams and natural clay minerals. The outer part of the jar is made of wood-containing Sulapac material, while the inner lining of the jar is made of the Sulapac barrier material that offers protective properties needed to maintain the quality of sensitive skincare emulsion. All Sulapac materials go through a rigorous research, testing and validation process, while guaranteeing an adequate shelf life, product stability and impact resistance. The project ties into Lumene’s target to have 80% of their packaging made from renewable or recycled content by 2025.

Hair growth supplements brand Viviscal introduced a new suite of topical hair care products to address women’s hair concerns. The new suite consists of a Viviscal Thickening Shampoo, Viviscal Strengthening Conditioner, Viviscal Exfoliating Scalp Scrub and Viviscal Thickening Serum. All of the new products are formulated with an AminoMar Marine Complex along with key nutrients including biotin, vitamin C and iron, to help nourish thinning hair, reduce shedding and increase thickness.

Miscellaneous highlights
The European Commission published its annual report on the Safety Gate, which is the European Rapid Alert System for dangerous non-food products. The report covers alerts notified during 2022 and the responses given by national authorities. Health risks linked to chemical substances was the most frequent type of risk notified, which was also found in a wider variety of products last year. Cosmetic products had a significantly higher number of alerts related to the presence of recently banned chemical substances in perfumes and creams. 

Fragrance house Firmenich was recognized as one of the World’s Most Ethical Companies for the second time by Ethisphere, which aims to advance the standards of ethical business practices. Ethisphere’s 2023 listing comprised 135 honorees in the world in 19 countries based on their commitment to business integrity and leadership through best-in-class ethics, compliance and governance practices.

By Benjamin Ferrer