Beauty alchemy: Innova Market Insights and BDI-BioLife Science highlight key skin care ingredient trends

28 Nov 2023 --- In a year marked by dynamic shifts in consumer preferences, the skin care industry is embracing a wave of natural, effective and sustainable ingredients. Anna Petritsch, product development manager at BDI-BioLife Science, and Sugandha Bandyopadhyay, team lead of BPCH at Innova Market Insights, look deep into the top beauty trends shaping the landscape.

“Trends in ingredients come and go. It can take a while to figure out which ones are worth the hype and which can address specific skin concerns,” says Petritsch. “We’ve seen a change in how consumers view cosmetics. They’re becoming more conscious about the ingredients used in their skin care products.”

She acknowledges the growing awareness of the importance of skin care and functions of its individual ingredients. “On top of that, there is an increase in population aging and the focus on maintaining young and healthy skin.”

“At BDI-BioLife Science, we’ve noticed a strong interest in natural ingredients. In addition, topical skin care products with active ingredients are still popular. Consumers want products with natural ingredients that are effective,” she continues.BDI-BioLife Science’s Astacos OL50, an anti-aging active ingredient harnessing the benefits of red diamond astaxanthin.

Ceramides steal the spotlight
Meanwhile, market analyst Bandyopadhyay spotlights ceramides as the star ingredient of the hour with a CAGR of +21% from July 2018 to June 2023, driven by consumer interest in functional skin care actives that meet their concerns.

“Ceramides are lipids by chemical formulation naturally found within the human body,” she notes. “As a skin care ingredient, its primary function is to maintain, protect and promote the integrity of the skin barrier.”

“Moreover, it is also a moisturizing ingredient, often found in combination with another star ingredient, hyaluronic acid, in product formulations in skin care. One of the most active types of this ingredient is Ceramide NP.”

Anti-aging antioxidants
Petritsch believes sustained consumer desire to slow aging is now evolving to comprise full-body health. “The next big skin care trend will revolve around a holistic focus on better nutrition to support healthier skin.”

“Consumers are drawn to antioxidants because of their great potential in protecting skin from oxidative stress,” she says. “Oxidative stress can cause accelerated skin aging and damage, but antioxidants help safeguard our cells and prevent this damage.”

“In cosmetic formulations, antioxidants neutralize free radicals, reducing signs of aging and promoting a youthful appearance. They play a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin.”

BDI-BioLife Science’s Astacos OL50, an anti-aging active ingredient harnessing the benefits of red diamond astaxanthin, addresses these outcomes. Innova Market Insights highlights ceramides as a star ingredient of the hour.

“Natural astaxanthin, the red diamond amongst antioxidants, is the most powerful natural antioxidant. Its enormous power far surpasses other well-known antioxidants — it is 770 times stronger than Q10 and even 6,000 times more potent than vitamin C,” stresses Petritsch.

In other trending ingredients, Bandyopadhyay spotlights cica or Centella Asiatica. “A naturally occurring herb that is native to Africa, Asia and Australia, cica is a soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative skin care ingredient with benefits such as repairing irritated skin, suitability for sensitive skin afflicted to redness, treating acne, and preventing premature aging of the skin from external sources like pollution.”

“It is often considered an old-school ingredient with rich roots in Asian cultures,” Bandyopadhyay emphasizes.

Other top ingredients driven by the anti-aging trend include familiar peptides, bakuchiol and vitamin C.

“Positioned as a natural alternative to retinol, bakuchiol is comparatively less harsh on the skin (especially suited to sensitive skin types) but has the same functional properties, including anti-aging benefits such as reducing fine lines and wrinkles, making the skin firmer and preventing premature sagging by targeting free radicals,” says Bandyopadhyay.

“It also acts as an antioxidant against environmental stressors, soothes acne-prone skin texture, and is often paired with retinol in many skin care products to stabilize the former and make the anti-aging effects more long-lasting. Bakuchiol is one of the most popular natural alternatives to retinol, garnering over 233 million views on the social media platform TikTok in the year leading up to November 2023.”Astacos OL50 comes from a microalga called Haematococcus pluvialis.

Switching out conventional synthetics
Petritsch flags that the potential side effects of conventional cosmetic products are also becoming more apparent to consumers. “Consumers are concerned about the safety of chemicals in these products and are looking for safer alternatives,” she adds.

“Natural ingredients are appealing because they’re considered cleaner and safer alternatives to traditional cosmetics. In a market where more educated consumers drive growth, products with proven natural ingredients are in a strong position to thrive.”

Bandyopadhyay at Innova spotlights salicylic acid as a trending functional active in skin care, with a +5% CAGR from July 2018 to June 2023 and +16% year-on-year from July 2021 to June 2023.

Notably, she says fermented ingredients and hyaluronic acid are other functional actives on the upward trajectory. “Fermented ingredients in skin care denote a class of ingredients derived from the anaerobic (lacking oxygen) process of fermentation.”

“While fermented food has gained popularity among F&B consumers, fermented beauty ingredients, which originally started in the K-beauty trend, are also getting noticed with multiple launches and research underway.”

Additionally, she shares that the widespread need for moisturizing and hydrating benefits in skin care among consumers — 36% of consumers globally, according to the Innova BHPC Survey 2023 — has driven the popularity of hyaluronic acid.

“Recent research and following new launches also show the skin barrier repair benefits, and new products with hyaluronic acid and ceramides are emerging in the market,” Bandyopadhyay tells Personal Care Insights.

By Radhika Sikaria