Tech, regulation and ingredient innovation close biodegradability–performance gap

NeoEcology is a word that will be heard more and more throughout the beauty industry, particularly as it relates to biodegradable beauty ingredients. The megatrend merges sustainability with technology-driven solutions, focusing on decoupling economic growth from resource consumption and moving toward a circular economy.

Personal Care Insights speaks to BASF, Seppic, and Univar Solutions about the convergence of biodegradable ingredient development and technology-enabled formulation, as well as the role of European regulations in driving innovation.

Dr Boris Gaspar, head of market development, Personal Care EMEA at BASF, tells us that NeoEcology signals a fundamental shift in how the personal care industry approaches sustainability. 

“This trend is manifested in several ways, including the use of sustainable ingredients, the adoption of eco-friendly packaging, the optimization of production methods to reduce environmental impact, and increased transparency from brands regarding their commitments.”

“We anticipate a continued and significant shift toward biodegradable polymers, biobased surfactants, and microplastic-free systems. These solutions will play a central role in enabling responsible beauty formulations — and in meeting both regulatory expectations and the rising consumer demand for products that are good for people while respecting the planet.”

Sensorality preferences 

Consumers are increasingly seeking biodegradable alternatives to persistent ingredients but are unwilling to compromise on performance or sensorial experience.

Innova Market Insights data indicates a 14% CAGR in beauty product launches with biodegradable ingredients between October 2020 and September 2025. Mascara was the top category in these launches, while face foundations/illuminators are gaining ground.

Irena James, senior business development manager, North America, Beauty and Personal Care, Ingredients + Specialties from Univar Solutions, tells Personal Care Insights that a primary challenge in making clean beauty ingredients is preserving sensoriality and stability while reducing reliance on synthetics.BASF expands its portfolio of biodegradable ingredients. 

She says the shift is driving innovation and cites Dermalcare LIA MB by Syensqo as an example. 

“The ingredient is a 100% plant-based, COSMOS-certified emollient derived from renewable feedstock waste. It improves UV filter solubilization, reduces tackiness, and enhances sensory after-feel, all while being microbiome-friendly and biodegradable,” says James.

Gaspar echoes that the drive to create biodegradable beauty solutions is coming from consumers. 

“We’re seeing biodegradable beauty shift rapidly from a niche preference to a mainstream expectation. Biodegradability is no longer viewed as a bonus feature or differentiator — it’s becoming a fundamental requirement.”

“At BASF’s Personal Care business, we have been investing in natural- and renewable-based feedstocks for decades, giving us a strong foundation to respond to this shift.”

Holistic solutions

Over the past few years, BASF’s development team has focused on building a holistic portfolio of high-performance biopolymers. Polymers are essential for delivering the sensory profile, texture, and styling performance consumers expect. Yet most conventional polymers are not biodegradable, creating a tension with the demand for natural and eco‑conscious cosmetics. 

“Under our Verdessence trademark, we have launched six biopolymers to date — covering applications from color cosmetics to hair care. The latest innovation, Verdessence Maize, a plant-based styling ingredient, is a readily biodegradable alternative to PVP and VP/VA polymers,” explains Gaspar.

“Being 100% derived from renewable feedstocks, it is perfectly suited for natural and organic cosmetics, and can be used in various applications, especially mousses with a cloud-like foam texture and crystal-clear pump sprays. Performance assessments revealed that Verdessence Maize delivered comparable bending stiffness and curl retention in both pump mousse and pump spray formats, matching the results of formulations containing synthetic polymers.”

Technology fuels advancements

To keep pace with emerging trends and consumer needs, it is increasingly imperative that brands leverage new technologies.

BASF, for example, uses modelling, simulation, and AI-based insights for its digital service platform D’lite. The platform is designed to support the company’s customers in the product development process. It includes several applications that help to improve the sustainability of cosmetic formulations. Beneficial sensorial properties remain non-negotiable for consumers. 

BASF’s Surfactant Navigator provides customers with suggestions for surfactant mixtures. Systematic experiments and modeling algorithms help brands to replace current surfactant combinations with natural-based alternatives without compromising on performance. Based on physicochemical, sensorial, and thickening properties, customers can obtain a sustainable replacement solution for the surfactant they wish to replace. 

D’lite also includes the SFA Formulator, a predictive modeling and optimization service that helps customers to design liquid rinse-off formulations with sustainable, naturally derived SFA (Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate) surfactants. The platform has the Emollient Maestro, which uses scientific models to calculate biodegradable and natural-based emollient mixes, and allows for the targeted replacement of industry benchmarks such as cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, or mineral oils. 

Lastly, Ingredients Revealed, developed specifically for formulators, enables the identification of ingredients and formulations that meet specific sustainability criteria, such as standards and labels. This tool functions as a digital lab, providing the flexibility to select from pre-existing formulations or to create custom formulations from scratch. The tool updates sustainability metrics, such as biodegradability and renewable carbon content, in real time as ingredients are added or removed. 

Regulatory shifts push change

Regulatory developments are also accelerating the beauty industry’s transition to biodegradability.

For example, the EU’s Zero Pollution Action Plan aims to reduce microplastic pollution by 30% by 2030. As part of this effort, the intentional use of non‑biodegradable, water‑insoluble polymer particles — such as styrene acrylate copolymer‑based opacifiers — will be banned in rinse‑off formulations from October 17, 2027. 

In response, BASF recently launched Lamesoft OP Plus. It has a high natural origin content (NOC = 92.3%–98.5%) and can be used as an alternative to persistent, acrylate-based ingredients. It is characterized by its high-opacifying efficacy and offers additional care benefits in rinse-off applications while ensuring easy formulation and cold processing. Performance tests indicate that it significantly reduces wet/dry combing effort while enhancing anti-hair breakage performance. 

Silicones are another category under increasing pressure due to biodegradability concerns — particularly volatile cyclosiloxanes (D4, D5, and D6), which have already been phased out of the cosmetics industry or will soon be. 

“We’re proactively developing sustainable alternatives, i.e., without the use of silicones, that not only replace the regulated materials but also future‑proof formulations ahead of emerging restrictions,” says Gaspar. High performance and biodegradability do not have to be mutually exclusive. 

He details BASF’s Cetiol Ultimate, a fast-spreading, volatile emollient derived from renewable resources. The D5 alternative can cover a wide range of applications and claims, spanning from very light oil-in-water emulsions, sun protection formulations, and smooth dry body oils to fresh facial foundations and glossy hair oils. 

The ingredient’s volatile properties allow it to be easily applied and absorbed on the skin and hair in leave-on products. The 100% renewable-based, volatile hydrocarbon is readily biodegradable and approved by COSMOS and NATRUE. 

Andréa Nigon, Beauty Care Markets and digital manager at Seppic, tells us that the personal care industry is currently focused on the European restriction on Synthetic Polymer Microparticles (SPM). 

“In order for formulators to avoid constraints and obligations linked to this regulation and allow them to formulate with ease of mind, they can look for natural rheology modifiers such as Seppic’s natural rheology modifiers of the Solagum range that are powerful biodegradable natural origin polymers for all applications. They are multifunctional and present synergistic effects when combined with one another,” says Nigon. 

She also explains that soluble synthetic solid polymers can improve ease of use and formula stability with high performance. 

“As an example, Sepimax Zen is the perfect polymer for building the ‘chassis’ of formulations and addressing the challenge of stress-inducing and difficult active ingredients, as it presents maximal resistance to electrolytes. Moreover, it provides excellent suspensive properties, it forms transparent gels with a velvet, rich, and elegant feel. It can be used in both skin care and hygiene products. It is inherently ultimately biodegradable.”

Gaspar also highlights the EU’s restrictions on SPMs as a regulatory pressure accelerating sustainability. He says that by building a forward‑looking portfolio based on natural and renewable feedstocks for decades, its customers already benefit from ingredients that minimize future reformulation needs.