Deodorant innovation: Expanded sensorial properties, new galenics and silicone alternatives

29 Aug 2023 --- Deodorant ingredient innovation has expanded with new sensorial properties for a wellness feeling, alongside technological advancements that target specific underarm microbes and novel formats that allow for new methods of applying products. 

Exploring newly launched solutions in this space, we find that formulators are switching out silicones with biodegradable solutions that are compatible with antiperspirant active ingredients.

The global deodorant market represented approximately 4.28% of the global personal care market in 2022, indicating that it is a relatively small market, according to data cited by industry supplier Seppic.

“Nevertheless, it is a growing market with an average annual growth for these next five years estimated at +10.3% between 2022 to 2027. This growing value can be explained by latest demands from consumers for more ethical and environmental claims and formulas that respect the skin,” Andrea Nigon, manager at Seppic’s Beauty Care Markets & Digital department, tells Personal Care Insights.

Innova Market Insights data highlights that deodorant launches grew by +14% CAGR (2018 to 2022), with Unilever and Maxingvest accounting for 40% of launches.“This growing value can be explained by latest demands from consumers for more ethical and environmental claims and formulas that respect the skin,” she adds. “To answer those demands, new formats are invading the market, more natural ingredients and new active ingredients are being used such as skin care active ingredients usually dedicated to the face and/or body.”

“Indeed, the armpit skin is fragile, often assaulted by shaving and depilatory products, but rarely concerned by the use of skin care products.”

Brazil dominates global deodorant market
Innova Market Insights’ 2023 data evidences that deodorant launches grew by +14% CAGR (2018 to 2022), with Unilever and Maxingvest accounting for 40% of launches. The analysis also reveals that animal-friendly claims, including no animal testing and vegan claims, are enjoying strong growth.

The market researcher found that two-fifths of adults globally purchased underarm deodorant in the past year, with purchasing levels being very low in Asia. The highest-consuming countries are Brazil (68%), Germany and UK (62%), Australia (59%). The lowest were South Korea (10%), China (11%) and Japan (15%).

“Nowadays aerosol deodorants have the biggest market share in terms of retail value and volumes, but its composition, rich in propellant gasses, makes them less appreciated by consumers,” notes Nigon.

“New galenics have entered the market, such as sprayable emulsions without propellant gasses, which do not compromise on ease of use, texture and sensoriality.”

Nigon also highlights “disruptive textures” inspired by waterless beauty are coming into the spotlight, such as thick creams, balms and sticks with “new gestures related to their use.” “They are more part of a well-being ritual where you take the time to apply your deodorant as you would do for a skin care product,” she notes.

Another innovation focus is deodorants and antiperspirants that claim more and more benefits that go beyond the simple notion of fighting body odor thanks to the presence of active ingredients with soothing, moisturizing and lightening properties, normally dedicated to the face and/or body. This has led to the “introduction of deodorant serum,” as Nigon puts it.

Sensorial innovations
Seppic recently developed formulas to help brands launch “trendy” deodorants, which it featured in test applications. One notable solution is a soft natural roll-on deodorant, composed of Emogreen L19 (INCI: C15-C19 Alkane). The key ingredient is marketed as an alternative to silicone oils, that presents comfort and efficiency for underarms, while being sourced from plant-based and renewable sources.

“It brings more naturality to a common roll on texture without compromise on sensoriality and efficacy with a total of 89.6% of natural origin ingredients,” says Nigon. “The right ingredients were selected to stabilize stressful active ingredients while respecting underarm skin.”

Animal-friendly claims, including no animal testing and vegan claims are seeing strong growth on the market.Seppic also unveiled a soft deodorant balm, composed of Emogreen L19 that is a balm texture for a well-being gesture. It is a cream with a “thick and melting” texture, composed of natural origin ingredients (98.2%), which can be applied directly with fingers on the armpits. 

“This formula is recommended to answer growing demands from consumers that would prefer to take care of their armpits by taking the time to adopt a new gesture in their daily routine,” Nigon explains.

Switching out dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane
Seppic’s R&D teams studied the replacement of dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane by the Emogreen range, while examining how this affects the products’ compatibility with deodorant and antiperspirant active ingredients.

“Silicones such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane are widely appreciated for their light and dry skin feel after application. However, consumers and formulators are increasingly looking for alternatives to these products that are sustainable but also effective,” highlights Nigon.

One of the main concerns about dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane is that they are not biodegradable, meaning that they can accumulate in the environment.

Another concern about dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane is that they can be inhaled or ingested. This is especially a concern for children, who may put their fingers in their mouths after touching products that contain these ingredients. 

Instead, Seppic’s biodegradable Emosmart L15 is designated as the alternative to cyclic silicones, while its Emogreen L19 solution – a natural origin and biosourced ingredient – is designed to specifically replace low viscosity dimethicones. 

The company research teams studied the compatibility and stability of the Seppic emulsifiers and polymers with the active ingredients. Finally, a sensory analysis study was done comparing three frames with silicone oils to three frames with biodegradable alternatives, accompanied by panel experts and consumers to investigate consumer preferences. 

This study allowed the Seppic R&D team to develop the two formulas presented above with an approved sensoriality proven by experts and consumers.

“It has been proven that Emogreen and Emosmart allows us to obtain identical sensory profiles to those of silicones. Thanks to these two grades, it is possible to maintain both efficiency and sensoriality in silicone-free deodorants,” says Nignon.

Technology targets specific underarm microbes
Arcaea launched its first ingredient technology, ScentARC, to “biologically shift scent in a natural and precise manner.” Available as a solution for deodorant brands to formulate with and incorporate into their own consumer offerings, ScentARC was developed through a biology-first technology platform which leveraged machine learning, high throughput screening and skin microbiology research.

Arcaea launched its first ingredient technology, ScentARC, which selectively targets specific underarm bacteria.ScentARC technology is designed to target specific underarm microbes. It shifts a user’s odor profile by selectively and naturally preventing production of odorous compounds without antimicrobials or masking smells.

In a third party consumer panel, 87% of participants said the technology prevented bad smells from developing throughout the day. All of them 100% said they found the product to be gentle and non-irritating.

“Our mission is to make biology the most desired technology in beauty. When it comes to the US$25 billion deodorant category, the underlying science relies on approaches developed in the 1800’s: masking smells, killing odor, or blocking and absorbing sweat. We saw a better solution through biology using technologies that didn't exist until recently,” comments Jasmina Aganovic, CEO at Arcaea.

Arcaea claims it has already garnered sampling interest for this new active from “hundreds of brands” globally looking to partner on deodorant formulation.

“The value of the ScentARC technology is that it enables formulators to work outside the traditional tool set of approaches and ingredients. It allows for a product to be differentiated and addresses the evolution of consumer expectations around safety and efficacy,” says Jennifer Cookson, senior director of development at Arcaea.

“We had a tremendous response to our soft launch earlier this year,” says Ro Oteri, chief commercial officer of Arcaea.

Botanical fragrances merged with skin care benefits
Earlier this year, Robertet revealed a concept that “transcends” traditional deodorant fragrances by delivering functional benefits through bioactive olfactory molecules that harness the physiological properties of natural raw materials present in the perfumer’s palette.

“With our concept of Actiscent, we really wanted to give the fragrance back its original properties. Before it was used for the smell, botanicals were used for their benefits and well-being and to heal from ailments,” Anthony Pegard, manager of the Aromatic Laboratory of Robertet’s Fragrance Division, told Personal Care Insights at the time of the launch.

One of the novel ingredients within the range is Beauty Ritual, which is sourced from the leaves of the Egyptian multi-branched shrub Pelargonium graveolens. It is ideal for deodorants at 1% in leave-on formats. The essential oil is extracted via steam distillation. It has top notes of geranium, bergamot and may chang; middle notes of jasmine, heliotrope, peony and marine and bottom notes of musk and wood.

Another solution in the Actiscent range is Pure Freshness, which is formulated to fight perspiration and malodors on the body. It is based on a patented active blend of perfumery esters that are hydrolyzed by skin bacteria enzymes, called esterases. The hydrolysis products obtained help the inhibitory growth activity on C. xerosis and B. epidermidis.

“Ester molecules are totally safe for bacteria, but when it is degraded to an acid, it becomes toxic to the bacteria. The bacteria are responsible for this process themselves, so in essence, they produce their own poison,” details Pegard.

The solution’s efficiency is said to be equivalent to that of existing deodorant active ingredients, while also offering an improved duration of action. Robertet highlights it is ideal at 1% concentration in rinse-off products and 0.5% in leave-on products such as deodorants and creams. 

By Benjamin Ferrer