DSM unveils ocean-friendly sun care NPD with improved sun protection at lower concentrations

27 Sep 2021 --- Royal DSM has launched Parsol EHT, an eco-friendly UVB filter that delivers the highest absorption in the market and is compatible with other organic and inorganic UV filters, besides being photostable and inert, according to the company. 

“Parsol EHT is equivalent to the registered UV filter Ethylhexyl Triazone and is still used in a minority of formulations globally,” Madina Sautova, head of marketing communications personal care and aroma ingredients at DSM, tells PersonalCareInsights.

The UVB filter has an E1/1 peak of >1500 in the UVB range, which enables sun care formulators to achieve the desired SPF at low use concentrations and develop a broad range of the eco-class formulations (class A as per the DSM Sunscreen Optimizer 2.0).

The filter can be used in oil-in-water anionic cream-based emulsions, non-ionic based cream emulsions and ethanolic sprays, Sautova explains.

“DSM supports its further use, which enables formulators to deliver the same SPF level at much lower concentration versus other, more traditional UV filters.”

The UVB filter enables sun care formulators to achieve the desired SPF at low use concentrations. 

Demand for sun care rises
While the COVID-19 pandemic has negatively affected category sales, the next few years are promising for the category to see growth thanks to growing consumer awareness of the skin health and skin aging concerns from UV exposure, DSM supports.

“Thanks to the increased communication on the dangers of the UV exposure to the skin’s appearance and health and also the inclusion of UV filters in many non-beach products, such as daily skincare, makeup and hair care the products with SPF gain more popularity and usage,” says Sautova.

“Consumers today expect SPF protection not only from beach and sun products, but also from anti-aging, moisturizing and makeup products.”

“They seek to protect themselves from sunburns, decrease the risk of skin cancer, and also to prevent photoaging, such as wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, collagen decrease,” she adds.

Friendly to aquatic environments
DSM also offers access to the DSM Sunscreen Optimizer that can be used to develop formulations with minimized impact on the aquatic environment. 

“The ingredient has also been dubbed as eco-friendly since it is a UV filter that allows higher Eco-classes thanks to its eco-profile and lower needed concentration,” Sautova says.

The UV filter scores high for both UVB absorbance and eco-friendliness, the latter evaluated based on the persistence, bioaccumulation and toxicity data in DSM’s Sunscreen Optimizer tool. 

Modern consumers also expect SPF protection from anti-aging, moisturizing and makeup products.In addition to the high functional profile, it is easy to formulate, photostable and compatible with top market UVA solutions, making it suitable for a full range of applications.

Applications potential
To illustrate the proficiency of this new product addition, DSM’s formulators designed the ready-to-go Featherlight Cream SPF 50 guide formulation. 

Combining fast absorption and a silky touch with high protection into the blue light range, this formulation also comes with an eco-class A rating. 

“Parsol EHT easily dissolves in the oil phase and is already used in a variety of personal care products, including makeup and lip care,” notes Sautova.

Expanding its personal care footprint, DSM recently acquired the flavor and fragrance bio-based intermediates business of Amyris for an upfront consideration of US$150 million. 

The deal added seven intermediate products to DSM’s existing personal care and aroma ingredient activities, extending its offerings in bio-based ingredients for the F&F and cosmetics industries.

By Kristiana Lalou