Sensorial fragrances: Sensegen and Givaudan spearhead well-being formulas from biotech and responsible sourcing

05 Sep 2023 --- In the fragrance industry, biotechnology and responsible sourcing go hand-in-hand as crucial strategies, highlighted by experts at Sensegen and Givaudan. Both are boosting the eco-credentials of scent craft, while opening innovation doors to novel ingredient discovery.

As detailed by Angélique Burke, VP of Fragrances at Sensegen, the company is now leveraging biotechnology to produce fragrance molecules through fermentation and synthetic biology.

This approach reduces reliance on petroleum-based synthetics, aligning with the industry’s move toward environmental sustainability. Additionally, it allows for quality control and consistency while maintaining the naturality of fragrance ingredients, meeting regulatory standards for natural raw materials in perfumery.

“As the first and only fragrance house dedicated to creating 100% natural, biotech-enabled scent solutions, it is a welcome challenge and our active mission to create fragrances that consider people and the planet. We are steadfast in working toward a more sustainable future and believe biotechnology advances are key to creating a better reality,” Burke tells Personal Care Insights.

Jeremy Compton, global head of science and technology fragrances at Givaudan, speaks about the essential activity of scouring the globe for new fragrance sources. “In terms of responsible sourcing, our Sourcing4Good program approaches more than 12,400 ingredients sourced from across the globe, sometimes sourced from remote communities where there can be environmental and economic pressures.” 

Givaudan’s Sourcing4Good encompasses all its active suppliers and applies to all materials – natural and synthetic – as well as indirect materials and services. Sensegen is producing fragrance molecules through fermentation and synthetic biology (Image credit: Sensegen).

“It’s a win for everyone as we grow our business together and act as a force for good – based on industry criteria ranging from environmental and social benchmarks, improved supply chain security, greater transparency and more relevant supply chain information,” continues Compton. 

“Our suppliers can expect more visibility and the opportunity for partnerships, while our customers will have greater access to safe, high-quality products sourced responsibly and increased oversight and detailed knowledge of their supply chains.”

Hypoallergenic and safe for all
One of the challenges in the fragrance industry is catering to the expanding market for hypoallergenic and allergen-free fragrances. Sensegen addresses this niche by designing fragrance ingredients using biotechnology, isolating and avoiding potential allergens often found in traditional essential oils. The company’s focus on sensory research ensures that fragrances are allergen-sensitive while maintaining quality and longevity.

“Biotechnology offers a significant advantage – it allows us to precisely design the specific ingredients responsible for natural compounds’ olfactive characteristics, thanks to precision fermentation. This means we can recreate the olfactive signature of natural compounds while using significantly less material. Importantly, this process intentionally isolates and avoids the unwanted potential allergens often found in traditional essential oils,” stresses Burke.

For Compton at Givaudan, replacing animal testing with in vitro tests to provide safer ingredients to clients and consumers has benefits galore. “Givaudan’s safe-by-design initiative leads the industry efforts in replacing animal testing while simultaneously speeding up the testing process.”

“Regarding skin sensitization, our program includes a wide range of in vitro tests such as Keratinosens, our method to identify allergens and KDPRA, a method to predict potency of allergens, both validated by the OECD,” states Compton.

“Early testing of molecules without animals has a wide range of benefits – for consumers by ensuring safety for use on human skin, for customers by bringing products faster to market and for the environment by creating nature-friendly ingredients. We can mention Nympheal, Mahonial to replace muguet note and Rosabloom to replace citronellol.”

Delivery systems
To optimize the tactile and visual aspects of fragrance products, Sensegen emphasizes collaboration between scientists and their fragrance and flavor creative collective. This approach allows them to create new olfactive experiences while ensuring that sensory aspects such as texture, color and packaging enhance overall sensorial appeal. Fragrances have an innate emotional well-being credential.

“We created the first plant-based musk – an entire class that is a better alternative to synthetic. Our innovation is centered around biotechnology fragrance ingredients, which align perfectly with the growing demand for natural and sustainable fragrances,” says Burke.

“Through biotechnology, we are developing a wide range of fragrance materials that offer unique olfactive profiles, allowing us to create distinctive and differentiated products. These materials also allow us to reduce water and land usage, have a near-zero carbon footprint and minimize our environmental impact, which resonates with the trend toward greater sustainability.”

To answer consumers’ needs and ever-evolving market trends, Compton highlights Givaudan’s palette of ingredients that covers all olfactive families and is enriched by integrating two to four captive molecules per year and new naturals.

The fragrance and flavor supplier also uses an AI tool designed to decode and predict the emotional resonance of our fragrances, using color as a common language between scent and emotion. 

“Myrissi, our patented AI-powered fragrance sensorial decoder, is a meeting point between neuroscience expertise, AI and consumer knowledge. It enables us to bring fragrance creation closer than ever to sensory perceptions,” says Compton. 

“It also opens new opportunities for Givaudan customers, as it perfectly aligns with their marketing expectations in terms of emotional resonance while ensuring that the emotions endorsed align with those released by their packaging or advertising.”

Setting the mood
Sensegen places a strong emphasis on enhancing emotional well-being through fragrance ingredients. The company suggests that it is committed to exploring the well-being aspects of fragrances. 

In terms of creating ambiance or atmosphere in different settings, Sensegen’s fragrances are crafted to engage the sense of smell and enhance the overall experience. The company offers a range of fragrance options for homes that can transform environments, from cozy evenings to vibrant atmospheres. Spa-like products feature fragrances that promote relaxation and tranquility, contributing to a sense of calm and well-being. 

Givaudan’s safe-by-design initiative replaces animal testing while speeding up the ingredient safety testing process (Image credit: Givaudan).Burke illustrates that Sensegen understands the importance of creating unique sensory experiences for customers and tailors fragrances to align with brand identities and enhance the shopping experience.

“Sensorial marketing is becoming increasingly important in today’s competitive market and Sensegen actively collaborates with brands to integrate our fragrances into their overall sensory marketing strategies. Our approach involves a deep understanding of each brand’s identity, target audience, and marketing goals,” says Burke.

Similarly, for Givaudan, Compton emphasizes that the company creates fragrances that can go beyond just a pleasant smell but can positively influence a person’s emotions, which in turn can influence their mood and ultimately contribute to overall improved health and well-being. 

“Years of research, testing different fragrances and ingredients on consumers worldwide, and measuring their emotional and physiological responses have led to creative design aids with specific emotional benefits,” stresses Compton.

“Our diverse portfolio includes blooming technologies (Bloomful platform) for three key categories – home care, fabric care and personal care. We also get inspired by various environments, needs or situations. For instance, our Gaïa collection olfactively translates the benefits and positive impacts of natural surroundings, such as forest bathing, the seaside, or the luscious and relaxing feeling of nature after the rain.”

Compton continues by highlighting how, during the sanitary crisis, Givaudan’s Saniscent platform helped develop fragrances with a hygiene-enhancing positioning. The company has also expanded its flavor and fragrance expertise to the pet care segment with PetTech, allowing effective and pleasant fragrance solutions for pets, their owners and homes. 

By Radhika Sikaria