Toward a greener planet? Examining synthetics and natural fragrances

01 May 2023 --- As the industry moves toward hitting sustainability goals, the question of whether natural or synthetic fragrances are more beneficial to the planet and health becomes essential. PersonalCareInsights speaks to Firmenich and delves into recent research, laying out arguments for why synthetics should or should not be part of a more sustainable future.

Michal Benmayor, VP of sustainability perfumery at Firmenich, elucidates the benefits of synthetic ingredients – that often mimic natural ingredients – for being sustainable if the creation follows green chemistry principles and meets regulation checks. 

Moreover, she highlights how synthetics are better for health regarding allergens and enable perfumers to have a more expansive olfactory palate than natural fragrances. 

However, a Brazil-based study raises the question of using synthetic fragrances in personal care and household products (PCHPs) due to their impact on indoor air quality and health. 

“Fragrance compounds (synthetic fragrances or natural essential oils) comprise formulations of specific combinations of individual materials or mixtures. Fragrance chemicals have beneficial properties that allow their use in aromatherapy,” notes the author. 

However, they highlight that atmospheric pollution due to volatile organic compounds (VOCs), mainly from fossil fuel origin, is of “significant concern because they are responsible for deleterious effects on Earth’s climate and human health, like depletion of the stratospheric ozone layer and formation of tropospheric ozone.”

The researcher says that synthetic scents are primarily derived from petroleum and are a significant concern as they are cheap, abundant and the main contributors to decreasing indoor air quality and increasing personal exposure and potential health risks.

“Previous research has suggested that synthetic perfumes may potentially cause perturbation of the endocrine-immune-neural axis,” the study shares.

“Synthetic fragrances include derivatives of several chemical structures and organic functions: acids, alcohols, esters, aldehydes, acetals, nitrogen heterocycles, oximes, amides, amines, nitriles, Schiff base, oxygen heterocyclics, lactones, coumarins, ethers, sulfur heterocycles, thiols, sulfides, thiocyanates, dithiazides and hydrocarbons.”

Demand for conscious perfumery
Synthetic ingredients can be sustainable if the creation follows green chemistry principles and meets regulation checks, according to Benmayor.Firmenich has observed that consumers have shifted from seeking all-natural or green to clean to conscious ingredients that positively impact the planet and its inhabitants. 

“We see a true shift in consumer focus from the free-from that dominated the last decade to a focus on a need for transparency that goes beyond safety. Consumers want transparency on the full impact of the product/fragrance. Does it contain natural ingredients? Do they positively impact the environment? Is it  ethically produced?” says Benmayor.

“Consumers unanimously want it all: safe, natural, eco-friendly and ethical products that are not to be neglected. Consumers also want these products to smell good.”

With an emphasis on transparency, Benmayor adds that there is also a global awareness of the urgency of finding solutions in line with circularity and to reduce climate change. 

“Firmenich answers those consumer interests on many levels, as sustainable ingredient innovation addresses climate change, biodiversity loss and social responsibility. Through our natural ingredients, we adhere to responsible sourcing by respecting and protecting biodiversity and the communities at the source, working closely with our joint ventures and partners on the ground,” she continues.

“Innovation is leading the sustainable transformation of the perfumery industry.”

Are synthetics more sustainable?
Firmenich highlights that natural and synthetics are essential in sustainable fragrance creation. 

“The production of many natural ingredients has a high environmental impact associated with carbon and water consumption,” continues Benmayor. “The data we have collected, thanks to our EcoScent Compass, shows that from an environmental point of view, synthetic ingredients generally have a lower environmental impact than naturals.”

The company shares its responsibility in ensuring to keep within the planet's natural boundaries. “Synthetic ingredients thus allow us to lower the environmental impact of a fragrance which we know is now a key driver of consumption for consumers looking for eco-friendly products,” according to Benmayor.

How synthetics can be environmentally friendly
Synthetics enable the creation of scents that do not exist in nature – also allowing replication of natural scents that are difficult to access and extract naturally or from endangered natural species.

“Synthetic ingredients were first produced to allow scent creators to expand their palettes. This allowed for more scents than just natural essential oils,” says Benmayor.

“Mute flowers such as lilac, peony and lily of the valley/muguet molecules in perfumery tell the story of ground-breaking synthetics. These flowers’ molecules cannot be directly extracted from the flower. Their creation and evolution throughout perfumery history illuminates how the creation of synthetics is deeply interwoven with our exploration of the natural world and have also contributed to shaping the smell of ‘naturality’ we have today, such as freshness, lightness, breath and luminosity.”

Using a petrochemical process, chemists at Firmenich can obtain and recreate “nature identical molecules”, such as vanillin and citronellol, without damaging or exploiting natural resources. “Creating synthetic alternatives is how we have been able to stop using animal musk and ambergris in the past,” adds Benmayor.Benmayor stresses that synthetic ingredients that mimic natural ingredients have removed allergen risk.

“Additionally, chemical synthesis is highly reproducible, stable and also sustainable. We believe synthesis plays a complementary role to nature.” They are not affected by weather conditions which affect plant sources.

However, the harmful impacts of synthetic fragrances cannot be ruled out. “Some synthetic ingredients are still embedded in petrochemistry. Hence, there is a need to operate the transformation to renewable ingredients,” says Benmayor. 

“Moreover, some synthetic ingredients may have environmental, notably biodegradability issues. It is important to note that some of the most popular natural molecules, such as linalool (vs. lavender), are identical to the synthetic version. These molecules are ‘nature-identical.’ This allows perfume companies to create the same fragrance without the drain on resources in harvesting, processing or transportation.”

Against synthetic fragrances
On the other hand, the study flags that fragrances and formula constituents of PCHPs are VOCs that put vulnerable people at further health risks.

“Vulnerable populations are exposed daily to variable indoor concentrations of these chemicals. Fragrance molecules may trigger various acute and chronic pathological conditions because of repetitive human exposure to indoor environments at home and workplaces,” write the authors.

“The negative impact of fragrance chemicals on human health includes cutaneous, respiratory and systemic effects (e.g., headaches, asthma attacks, breathing difficulties, cardiovascular and neurological problems) and distress in workplaces. Pathologies related to synthetic perfumes are associated with allergic reactions (e.g., cutaneous and pulmonary hypersensitivity) and potentially with the perturbation of the endocrine-immune-neural axis.”

While fragrance mixtures are attractive and vital to PCHPs, and despite the beneficial aspects of fragrances and essential oils, the authors argue they can harm human health. “Fragrance and some formula constituents are VOCs that, according to the frequency, the quantity of use and evaporation and diffusion, can impact indoor air quality.”

“Even if most fragrance chemicals are assigned low risk through risk assessment and safety evaluation, secondary pollutants that negatively affect human health can emerge. In addition, hundreds of undisclosed fragrance-related chemicals in product formulations of PCHPs can trigger or intensify episodic and chronic symptoms of allergies, headaches and cardiovascular diseases in sensitive organisms.”

Renewable and natural options
Benmayor says that renewable ingredients are issued from biomass and are produced from various renewable feedstock sources that replace virgin fossil carbon sources.The study flags that fragrances and formula constituents of PCHPs are VOCs that put vulnerable people at further health risks.

The advantage of using renewable sources is the transition from petrochemistry, protecting natural resources by using renewable feedstock with a lower environmental impact. Benmayor highlights that a con is that the portfolio is in progress. However, it is going through a very fast expansion.

Natural ingredients are praised for being renewable and can be responsibly sourced. However, they are highly concentrated, are more allergenic and offer a narrow palate in certain olfactive families, Benmayor underscores.

Moreover, a natural product is not automatically sustainable and if nonregulated, it can unbalance the boundaries of natural resources, she adds. Other disadvantages are that they are less stable, more expensive and lack complexity, so they cannot cover all olfactive families such as musk or ozonic notes.

Risk to health or the environment
In terms of allergy risk, Benmayor stresses that synthetic ingredients that mimic natural ingredients have removed this risk.

In defense of synthetic fragrances, Benmayor says that new molecules are created following the principles of green chemistry: “a 12 principles approach to chemistry designed to maximize efficiency and minimize hazardous effects on human health and the environment.”

“Every new molecule we create is safe and allows us to lower the environmental impact of a fragrance which we know is now a key driver of consumption for consumers looking for eco-friendly products.”

She also highlights the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), which regulates synthetic ingredients. “Every ingredient is tested for its environmental impact and safety. The recommendations from RIFM are relayed to The International Fragrance Association (IFRA – Europe) and codified.”

Increasing regulation
Benmayor highlights: “In the absence of a universal definition and standard for ‘clean’ in cosmetics and fragrances, each manufacturer, retailer and brand create their definition.”

“At Firmenich, Clean Fragrances goes across all our creations. Every single ingredient, both natural and synthetic that we use in our perfumes is tested for safety and its environmental impact, regulated by IFRA and REACH (defined by OECD) standards and abide by their strict regulations.”

This ensures approval from authorities who adhere “the strictest European legislation.”

Moreover, Firmenich’s Conscious-Design process, which advocates responsible, sustainable clean fragrance solutions, places transparency in the center – bridging clean and conscious perfumery.Research has suggested that synthetic perfumes may potentially cause perturbation of the endocrine-immune-neural axis.

Innovation streams and white biotech
Benmayor shares that Firmenich’s two innovation streams include GreenGate for developing new molecules and SylverGreen for converting and developing renewable ingredients. 

“We are also investing in other research programs, including the PyroCo2 project, with investment from the European Green Pact. This is about turning carbon dioxide emissions into new renewable ingredients,” she adds. 

Meanwhile, white biotechnology offers sustainable advantages that use renewable feedstock, reduce energy consumption and carbon emissions, avoid the improper use of land and do not leave agricultural residues when compared to plant extracts.

White biotechnology also offers allergen control and can produce ingredients that cannot be produced by chemical synthesis, continues Benmayor.

“An example of White Biotech innovation is Dreamwood which is 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable, made through fermentation. Dreamwood carries the olfactive character of Sandalwood, a tree originally sourced from India which is on the verge of extinction,” she concludes.

By Venya Patel