In-cosmetics Global 2026 live: Eastman unveils biodegradable and sulfate-free foam booster

Eastman is introducing Kalidex, a certified, readily biodegradable foam booster and thickener developed for sulfate-free personal care formulations. The company spotlights that the ingredient allows formulators to reduce total surfactant levels while maintaining performance in shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers.

The company emphasizes that testing shows a 30–45% average increase in foam height and, beyond lather performance, Kalidex also functions as a viscosity modifier. This gives formulators a single ingredient to address multiple formulation challenges in sulfate-free cleansing systems.

Moreover, Eastman says it meets OECD 301B group 1 biodegradability guidelines, positioning it as a compliance-ready option for brands with sustainability commitments. The company is showcasing Kalidex at In-cosmetics Global 2026 in Paris, France (Apr 14–16).

Personal Care Insights speaks with Lauren Leonard, Eastman’s global market development manager, to discuss the formulation challenges driving the ingredient’s development and where it fits within the broader sulfate-free market.

What are the key challenges in creating effective, biodegradable thickening agents, and how does Kalidex address those challenges?
Leonard: Across North America and Europe, the demand for sulfate-free products has been trending upward, driven by consumer preferences for natural, gentler hair care and specialty hair care products. However, sulfate-free cleansing formulations have historically faced challenges in delivering sensorial attributes comparable to sulfate-based systems.

Kalidex delivers biodegradable foam boosting for sulfate-free personal care.Consumers want their shampoos to not only cleanse, but also to add to their in-shower experience by delivering the rich foam, lather, and viscosity they expect from sulfate-containing shampoos. Eastman Kalidex, a readily biodegradable foam booster and thickener, was developed to address consumer demand and reduce the tradeoffs often associated with sulfate-free systems.

By reducing total surfactant concentration, Kalidex can help optimize costs and reduce formulation complexity. Kalidex can also boost thickener performance, enhance formulations’ existing thickening agents, and optimize rheology, enabling a product to maintain a rich texture throughout the washing experience and quickly lather into a creamy foam — providing an enhanced sensorial experience.

How do Eastman’s innovations at In-cosmetics Global 2026 help formulators meet performance and sustainability demands?
Leonard: Sustainability remains a major driving macro trend in personal care innovation, as consumers increasingly desire products that balance efficacy and environmental impact. At the same time, regulatory changes aimed at reducing intentionally added synthetic polymer microparticles in cosmetics, such as the European Commission’s Regulation (EU) 2023/2055, are beginning to take effect.

This creates new formulation challenges for brands, as well as opportunities for innovation. Specialty ingredient suppliers like Eastman play an important role in supporting brands through these transitions.

Esmeri CC1N10 and other Eastman personal care ingredients on display at In-cosmetics at stand 3Q58 are designed to help formulators meet these demands without compromising performance. Esmeri CC1N10 is a high-performance, readily biodegradable micropowder for color cosmetics (biodegradable in compliance with regulation (EU) 2023/2055 “Synthetic Polymer Microparticles”).

It is a non-nano ingredient that can help replace traditional synthetic polymer microparticles while maintaining the sensory experience and aesthetic qualities consumers expect. Developed leveraging more than a century of expertise in cellulose chemistry at Eastman, Esmeri CC1N10 offers long-lasting soft-focus properties, improved color intensity and payoff, and uniform coverage for a natural skin finish.

How do consumer trends influence Eastman’s ingredient development?
Leonard: Consumer trends play a central role in shaping Eastman’s ingredient development, helping us understand what today’s consumers value most in personal care products. These insights not only highlight preferences, such as demand for sustainability and transparency, but also reveal how product sensory and performance influence purchasing decisions.

Eastman uses this feedback to guide innovation and expand its portfolio with solutions that help meet evolving needs. For example, Eastman’s survey of 4,000 women ages 16–70 across the US, UK, Brazil, France, and Germany found that less than half of global consumers (47%) are satisfied with the long-wear features of their current color cosmetics.Eastman says the ingredient solves some of sulfate-free formulation’s biggest sensory and performance challenges.

This insight reinforced the value of ingredients like our AQ polymers, which contribute to long wear by forming durable, adherent films that improve water resistance, smudge resistance, pigment adhesion, and wear durability across color cosmetics, sun care, and hair styling formulations.

Similarly, Eastman GEM (Green Enzyme Manufacturing) retinyl esters were developed to meet the needs of consumers seeking anti-aging skin care products that deliver effective results while remaining gentle on skin. Traditional retinol, while effective, can cause irritation for some users and presents formulation challenges due to stability issues.

Eastman’s concentrated pro‑retinol derivatives deliver formulation-stable, easy-to-handle, and less irritating anti-aging ingredients. In a 12‑week clinical study, participants across skin types experienced reduced fine lines and wrinkles and a more even skin tone using GEM retinyl esters.

At the end of the day, it’s all about listening to and uncovering what people want, and Eastman’s approach is simple. We seek out consumer feedback and insights and use those to inform the development of innovative ingredients that meet the needs of brands and consumers.

How does Esmeri CC1N10 enhance the performance and sensory experience of products like the Velvet Multipurpose Stick and Shimmer Eyeshadow?
Leonard: Consumers are not fully satisfied with the performance of the color cosmetics they currently use and expect brands to use safer, more naturally sourced ingredients to enhance product attributes like long wear, coverage, and color payoff.

Esmeri CC1N10 addresses this gap by enabling smooth, even applications, improved color payoff, and soft-focus finishes through precise control of the particle size and uniform distribution. It is a readily biodegradable, high-performing solution that meets formulators’ needs today, and we are excited to continue to display its value across different applications.