ELC spotlight latest R&D on natural extracts, skin barrier, oxidative damage and hyperpigmentation

20 May 2022 --- Beauty and cosmetics titan Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) has unveiled insights on new dermatological ingredients for alleviating skin damage and aging while also showcasing research on the epidermal function, skin barrier, fermentation and pigmentation.

“Research and innovation are the engines of ELC which fuel all of our brands. We are always inspired by the latest cutting edge science in many different fields, and bring this to the benefit of skin,” Nadine Pernodet, PhD, SVP of bioscience, global R&D at ELC and lead scientist at Estée Lauder research laboratories tells PersonalCareInsights. 

“Here we show a few examples of the breadth of our understanding of biological pathways, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and how to support extracellular matrix proteins in female and male skin cells.

She adds: “Our research is also focused on how environment and lifestyle can cause skin damage, as an example we show here how blue light significantly increases skin damage, starting a chain reaction that leads to skin aging. With this deep understanding, we are able to create the appropriate technology to avoid and repair the damage.” 

“Through decades of research into key pathways affecting the skin, we continue to bring new insights and technologies to bear on the processes underlying skin aging and overall skin health,” comments Kurt Schilling, SVP of basic science research and advanced technologies at ELC. 

Fast skin recovery from Kelp fermentation
In ex-vivo studies, ELC researchers found that Macrocystis pyrifera kelp fermentation positively impacted the skin barrier function. Jaime Emmetsberger, PhD, lead scientist at Max Huber Research Laboratories.

“The two studies presented by the Max Huber Research Laboratories demonstrate the ability of Macrocystis pyrifera ferment to enhance skin barrier properties and recovery,” Jaime Emmetsberger, PhD, lead scientist at Max Huber Research Laboratories also tells PersonalCareInsights.

“In a clinical evaluation of a serum containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment, we found that treatment induces barrier strengthening and promotes faster recovery from professional dermatological treatments such as chemical peels and lasers.”

She continues: “In vitro studies on the Macrocystis pyrifera ferment uncovered various molecular mechanisms that contribute to enhanced barrier integrity, including the induction of critical barrier lipids and proteins, resulting in enhanced water retention and barrier repair.”

In related marine plants, brown seaweed extract fucoidans have also been proven to boost the skin barrier. 

“The in-vitro 3D model of ectopic dermatitis, fucoidan produced by Marinova significantly altered gene expression. Genes that were beneficially affected included those typically associated with skin barrier function, wound healing processes and fluid accumulation,” Amanda Mackinnon, marketing and communications manager at Marinova, previously told PersonalCareInsights. 

Reinforcing the skin barrier
A cosmetic formulation for managing barrier damage was tested in-vivo after a mild to moderate skin disruption. 

“A multi-ingredient topical serum containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment reduced transepidermal water loss,” finds the researchers. The serum also improved the quality and built back the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum) – reducing the immediate barrier disruption caused by a cosmetic glycolic peel or laser procedures. 

The findings suggest that the serum can help accelerate skin barrier recovery. Moreover, ELC researched the effects of postbiotics on improving the skin. 

“Postbiotic metabolites, like pinitol and amino acids produced during the lactobacillus fermentation process, were found to increase cell viability, energy and cell differentiation markers, involucrin and filaggrin,” shares the company. 

The results showed that the postbiotics increased epidermal thickness, suggesting that treatments can strengthen the skin over time. Nadine Pernodet, PhD, lead scientist at Estée Lauder research laboratories. 

Counteracting oxidative stress
Lavender extracts were discovered to prevent more damage to skin cells as they defend against free radical production and oxidative damage. It also protected the skin cells from blue light especially. The properties of the lavender extract are noted to have a “fast action” effect. 

Other flowers, like peony, have also been found to possess antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Peony seed oil is also rich in squalene and vitamin E, linoleic acid, α-linolenic acid, oleic acid and unsaponifiables. 

Poland-based researchers previously discovered that the dyes derived from common poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pomegranate blossom (Punica granatum), butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea), safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) and globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) could have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.

Additionally, ELC researchers found that the harvest time of hibiscus flower extracts can have collagen-boosting activities in skin cells. Hence, this highlights a correlation between the time of harvest and creating potent extracts. 

“Extract potency from hibiscus flowers varied with harvest time and increased collagen production in skin cells; combining the optimized extract with an exclusive moringa extract further increased collagen production,” shares ELC. 

Upon exploring the effects of two peptides on the extracellular matrix (ECM), in-vitro studies using skin cells from male donors resulted in increased collagen, elastin, fibronectin and hyaluronic acid. This helped keep ECM at optimal functionality to support the male skin properties and combat sagging, lines and wrinkles.

Hyperpigmentation
ELC also compared soluble proteins from the skin sections of acne and trichloroacetic acid (TCA) induced postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and erythema, resulting in changes in cellular behaviors. 

“Differences in the ethology of PIH [post-inflammatory erythema] and erythema in the skin of color were evaluated, with findings revealing elevated biomarker levels of IL-1β and TGF-β, promoting macrophage infiltration and sustained inflammation, and excess Keap1 [oxidative sensor], potentially contributing to altered proteostasis [protein regulation] and ethology.

The new findings are presented at an Estée Lauder symposium, a dermatology conference this month.

By Venya Patel