“Sensory satisfaction”: IFF explores emotional triggers to textures in bio-based beauty formula launch

20 Dec 2022 --- International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) is set to launch Aurist, a line based on biodegradable, responsibly sourced and natural sugars to improve the product texture and overall rheology of beauty and personal care products. The company underlines that “first impressions matter” as consumers prioritize sensory attributes when purchasing these products, which can elevate the application experience.

“The sensory properties of a beauty or personal care product can trigger emotional responses such as intrigue, pleasure and relaxation. Gels and jelly textures, for example, add an element of playfulness and sensory satisfaction to products, providing a delightful and exciting experience,” Johan Jansén-Storbacka, director of personal care at IFF’s Health & Biosciences, tells PersonalCareInsights.

“Functional ingredients are also key to improving the efficacy of formulations, such as emulsion stability, conditioning benefits and delivery of actives.”

Jansén-Storbacka shares that he can only say that the first product to be launched next year is a natural rheology modifier with broad compatibility and excellent sensory properties. “We will disclose more product details at the beginning of 2023 when we launch.”Care formulations are challenged by their ability to transform an issue experienced by the consumer.

Addressing consumer emotions
IFF highlights that the most successful companies have addressed each aspect of a product that a consumer may encounter by enhancing the emotional connection.

Sensorial experiences tied into cosmetic products may serve to trigger curiosity, which is a key purchasing driver. 

“Texture is a key factor when selecting beauty and personal care products. Consumers are constantly looking for novelty in both application formats and how they feel,” notes Jansén-Storbacka.

“Texture also plays a significant role in the perception of efficacy. In a study published in the scientific journal Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, more than 88% of subjects found that emollients with a smoother and more uniform appearance were deemed better quality and looked more appealing to use.” 

Jansén-Storbacka underscores that product texture and sensory profile are essential because they help brands connect with consumers and reinforce perceptions of product efficacy.

In recent developments tied to enhancing the emotional experience of personal care, Firmenich introduced a range of fragrances demonstrated to give consumers the benefit of improved focus and help them get into a state of flow.

Greening up formulas
In addition to its core functionalities, Aurist is marketed as an ingredient that addresses sustainability goals as consumers have been making “greener” purchases.

IFF suggests that as consumers become increasingly aware and prefer biodegradable or natural formulations, brands should reinvent and elevate their products’ sensorial properties while switching to sustainable ingredients.

“The big challenge we see today is to deliver – or improve – the functional performance of formulations, but to do it with sustainable, biodegradable ingredients. This challenge spans almost all formats and formulation functionalities, but we see it, especially in rheology modifiers and conditioning agents,” flags Jansén-Storbacka.Sensorial experiences with cosmetic products can trigger emotional responses.

Moreover, he adds there is increasing regulatory and consumer pressure to replace hair conditioning polymers. This means that brands must deliver the same textural benefits like smoothing, detangling and conditioning, with natural or nature-derived alternatives, which are also environmentally sustainable.

“Today’s consumers are making lifestyle choices based on a desire for the whole package,” shares the company.

They want beauty and personal care products that are not only a pleasure to use with comforting sensory profiles, but also with product claims that are backed with scientific research, provide measurable results and a novel experience, and are safe for the planet.”

Consumers’ mixed demands
Skin, hair and scalp care formulations pose further challenges as they are measured by their ability to transform an issue experienced by the consumer.

“This is particularly evident post-pandemic, with moisturization and damage repair reportedly the most sought-after benefits in hair treatments,” notes IFF.

Notably, multifunctional or “skinification” trends this year have taken hair routines to another level that rivals that of skincare. However, consumers arguably have even higher expectations regarding results, according to the company.

Consumers want to see glossy, shiny, soft or voluminous hair after one wash or treatment. The challenge remains for scalp health as consumers feel and touch the scalp to perceive how efficacious a product is. 

“Today’s consumers are discerning and both socially and environmentally conscious when making purchases,” says Jansén-Storbacka.

“We have developed Aurist because we believe that there should never have to be a trade-off between sustainability and performance. With Aurist, we expect formulators to get the same performance that they expect – or better – but using a sustainable option.”

By Venya Patel