Unilever uncovers skin microbiome’s “huge potential” for beauty and well-being product innovation

03 Jan 2023 --- Following Unilever’s recent partnership with the University of Liverpool’s Microbiome Innovation Centre and Brain & Behaviour laboratory, formed to uncover the links between the microbiome, its effects on the skin and overall well-being, PersonalCareInsights speaks to the consumer goods giant about the importance of the skin microbiome and what can be expected for NPD in the year ahead. 

The British multinational and the University of Liverpool will combine advances in microbiome science with new psychological methods, creating the scientific capability to link changes in the skin microbiome to well-being over time. The move could pave the way for new product approaches and technology targets. 

“The human microbiome is the living collection of trillions of bacteria, viruses and fungi, which coexist in, on and around our bodies. A balanced microbiome is essential to our overall good health and can have a major impact on how we look and feel,” Dr. Samantha Samaras, global VP of science and technology at Unilever, tells us.

“There’s huge potential here. It’s a fast-evolving growth market that will transform how we care for our skin. In the personal care industry, there has been a 40x increase in microbiome products in the last five years.”

While the gut microbiome is familiar to consumers, there is still low awareness of skin microbiome.“Key trend in skincare”
Unilever scientists are also researching ways to stimulate the skin’s organic ceramide-producing mechanisms so that it can mend itself. In July last year, it partnered with IBM and Eagle Genomics to create modern approaches using AI to unearth new insights in microbiome datasets and provide treatments for dry skin.

“The skin microbiome is made up of hundreds of different species, and the power of AI can be used to determine how these species are linked to skin health, for example, in skin hydration,” Michael Hoptroff, senior microbiome research manager at Unilever R&D, previously told PersonalCareInsights.

Samaras shares that Unilever has launched products in the Dove and Vaseline brands, using new technology in the microbiome space.

“Unilever has been researching the human microbiome for over 18 years. With over 100 microbiome patents secured and more than 60 publications, our microbiome researchers are some of the world’s leading experts in this space,” she asserts.

“It is no surprise that microbiome beauty is emerging as a key trend in skincare. Broadening our microbiome understanding can help us solve many common complaints, including dandruff, dry skin, acne and underarm odor.”

Unlocking potential
Samaras shares that microbiome-friendly products do not harm the skin microbiome. Following the use of these products, the microbiome is not disturbed to a point where it is likely that pathogenic organisms can colonize the skin.The Symbiome CEO believes microbiome-friendly certifications will remain more marketing than science.

“These products ensure that your first layer of defense – the microbiome – remains strong and capable of warding off potentially harmful organisms,” she outlines.

“While the gut microbiome is familiar to consumers, there is still low awareness regarding the skin microbiome. Many people have no idea they even have them. Consumers often don’t understand the link between a balanced and healthy microbiome and skin conditions such as dry scalp or acne.” 

Speaking to PersonalCareInsights, Larry Weiss, CEO at Symbiome, recently flagged that consumers without a scientific background will likely assume that a “microbiome-friendly” certification means more than it does.

“I am concerned that microbiome-friendly certifications will remain more marketing than science. Consumers expect and deserve better. Probably the most important is the misconception that our knowledge and understanding of the microbiome – not just skin – is much greater than it is,” he underpins.

“We only recently ‘discovered’ our microbiome and are at the very threshold of understanding what it is and what it means. Today we have many hypotheses but no certainty. There is a lot more work to be done.”

By Radhika Sikaria, with additional reporting from Mieke Meintjes