Microbiome as the next big thing? Expert says “consumers deserve better” as misconceptions pervade

28 Oct 2022 --- The term “microbiome-friendly” is a relatively recent concept picking up steam in the beauty space. PersonalCareInsights speaks with Symbiome, delving into the niche to demystify microbiome misconceptions by better understanding certifications. We also spotlight upcoming trends that are overtaking clean beauty.

Like any other organ system, the skin microbiome is functionally integrated with physiology and is essential for resilience and health.

“It protects and nurtures our skin and much more that we have yet to discover. For this reason, we should treat our skin microbiome with the same respect as the body parts we can see and feel,” Larry Weiss, CEO at Symbiome, explains reasons why protecting the skin microbiome is important.

“The skin microbiome is as much ‘you’ as the parts of your body that you can see and feel; the difference is that, until recently, it has been invisible to us.”

Most of the skin’s genetic and metabolic machinery resides in the skin microbiome.The skin microbiome is the combined genetic material (DNA and RNA) of the complex microbial ecosystem that is engrafted into the skin.

Claims and correlations
Certifications that ingredients and products are “microbiome friendly” are defined differently by companies offering diverse testing methodologies. These tests determine the positive or negative impact that cosmetic ingredients or products have on skin microbes in the laboratory setting.

“All of these tests assume a correlation between the test and clinical outcomes. However, this correlation remains hypothetical and has yet to be established in a well-designed clinical study,” Weiss underscores.

“In fact, it is well established that bacteria behave very differently in living skin than they do in laboratory tests. This doesn’t mean that the concept of screening and selecting ingredients as ‘microbiome-friendly’ based on a reliable laboratory test isn’t useful; quite the contrary. Formulators developing cosmetic products would find this as a useful criterion when selecting ingredients.”

He cautions that consumers without a scientific background will likely assume that a “microbiome-friendly” certification means more than it does.

Moving past clean beauty
Speaking on the popularity of microbiome-friendly beauty, Weiss says that two specific factors are responsible.Despite being invisible, Weiss says consumers should treat the skin microbiome with the same respect as the rest of the body.

“First, as ‘clean beauty’ has become yesterday’s news, skincare marketing has moved on to the microbiome as the next big thing. Second, it really is that important. Most of the skin’s genetic and metabolic machinery resides in the skin microbiome.”

“As our understanding advances, the importance of the microbiome to skin health will dominate both scientific and marketing conversations. I expect that while there will be incremental advances in 2023, I don’t anticipate any major transformational developments,” he continues.

Fad or future-proof?
Elaborating on what consumers can expect to come in this area of personal care, Weiss says that in spite of the use of microbiome-friendly testing and the certifications cosmetic formulation chemists award products, consumers aren’t provided validation of clinical relevance with actionable information to help them make better skincare choices.

“I am concerned that microbiome-friendly certifications will remain more marketing than science. Consumers expect and deserve better,” he asserts.

“Probably the most important is the misconception that our knowledge and understanding of the microbiome – not just skin – is much greater than it is. We only recently ‘discovered’ our microbiome and are at the very threshold of understanding what it is and what it means. Today we have many hypotheses but no certainty. There is a lot more work to be done.”

By Mieke Meintjes

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