Upcycled beauty start-up Honestly it’s repurposes waste ingredients amid rising circular beauty trend

21 Sep 2021 --- Dutch start-up Honestly it’s supports that circular beauty is the next big trend in skincare and markets its products, made with upcycled waste ingredients, as the environmental conscious change that industry needs. The brand’s executives speak to PersonalCareInsights about formulating with upcycled ingredients and eco-beauty trends, such as cruelty-free, vegan and plastic reduction.

Entering sustainable beauty trend: circular beauty
Circular beauty is a new and innovative way of formulating skincare products, affirms Avik Asroriyon, sustainability process manager at Honestly it’s.

An example of a product from the circular economy is Honestly it’s’ “My Addiction” Foaming Scrub Powder, which is made from coffee grounds collected from shops.

“Another issue that is not discussed by industry is waste. We saw the possibilities in using available waste to benefit the skin,” affirms Muqaddas Rahmonova, Honestly it’s founder and R&D.

Apart from circular beauty, another prominent trend in the skincare and beauty industry is the cruelty-free animal rights movement in Europe, comments Rahmonova.The biodegradable all-in-one body wash, exfoliator and moisturizer scrub powder is made from upcycled coffee grinds collected from coffee shops.

Circular beauty combats climate change by reusing or upcycling renewable ingredients, explains Asroriyon.

“Many of the raw materials that are considered waste are still rich in minerals and other useful ingredients. Thus, by upcycling them, we avoid using new raw materials and consequently decrease the overexploitation of the resources.”

Grounded in coffee
There were two stages of development with “My Addiction” Foaming Scrub Powder. The first stage was upcycling and the second was making the product plastic-free, details Rahmonova.

During the upcycle stage, the first product developed was a Whipped Foaming Scrub. “This product was influenced by sensitive skin and busy student life. It is a three-in-one product that works as a cleanser, exfoliator and moisturizer,” adds Rahmonova.

The purpose of this product was to reduce the time taken during a shower and to protect the skin barrier from water loss, which leads to dryness and itchiness.

“Being a regular coffee consumer, I used coffee ground leftovers from the coffee machine at the office and added them to the formulation. It was clear for us that there is a big gap in the skincare industry and available food waste diversity that can be directed toward skin benefits,” says Rahmonova.

It was then decided to use a powder instead of a liquid as a liquid would require packaging to have some form of plastic, she comments.

“Liquid products also take up a lot of space when shipping. Powder-based products are easier to store and carry around. This is why we decided to pack My Addiction Foaming Scrub Powder in compostable sachets that decompose in six months,” says Rahmonova.

The “My Addiction” Foaming Scrub Powder is made of 50% upcycled coffee grounds. It has 2% caffeine and 10% antioxidant oils such as almond oil, vitamin E, olive oil and grapeseed oil, adds Rahmonova.

“The coffee used is a combination of used coffee grounds, coffee arabica powder and caffeine. It constricts the blood vessels and helps to reduce inflammation and puffiness. The coffee combination also tightens and brightens the skin. Lastly, it removes dead skin cells and provides physical exfoliation.”

Product ingredients formulated for skin
The company’s first product is from a line of Foaming Scrub Powders that all have an upcycled ingredient, antioxidant-rich oils and coconut-derived cleansing agent to help the skin with exfoliation, cleansing and moisturizing, explains Rahmonova.

“The grapeseed oil is concentrated with vitamin C and E. It is anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial, and it makes the skin softer and more elastic. The olive oil contains vitamins K, D and E. It has a high concentration of squalene, which gives it an extra antioxidant boost. The oil moisturizes the skin and fights bacteria.”Circular beauty combats climate change by reusing or upcycling renewable ingredients.

“Vitamin E is an anti-inflammatory antioxidant that protects the skin from free radicals,” she adds.

The coconut-derived cleansing agent sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is present in the foaming scrub powder. It washes away dirt and oil without leading to dryness or irritation, comments Rahmonova.

The cleansing agent is biodegradable, and the oils present moisturizes the skin and reduces back acne.

Plastic reduction
Plastic pollution is one of the main reasons why the planet is suffering from climate change and global warming, explains Rahmonova.

“Therefore, we make sure to never use plastic in our packaging. We believe in recycling, reusing, upcycling and composting when it comes to packaging.”

Another trend that Honestly it’s is noticing is recycled plastic packaging, especially in Asia, which has a considerable market share in the skincare and beauty industries, she concludes.

By Nicole Kerr