Fungi and fruit: Snow mushroom and durian for hydrating healthy cosmetics

08 Jun 2023 --- With the rise of multifunctional and bio-based cosmetics, new research from Poland has found that Tremella fuciformis – also known as snow mushroom – can be used as an alternative to synthetic hyaluronic acid. At the same time, a Thai study found that Durio zibethinus Murray extract from durians can be used in cosmetics for antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities.

The use of plant-based claims in personal care launches has been increasing globally, featuring a 32% year-over-year growth when comparing 2020 and 2021, according to Innova Market Insights. In 2021, the top category of global personal care launches tracked with a plant-based claim was Skin Care (33%).

Moreover, the market researcher finds that the top positionings of global personal care launches tracked with plant-based claims in 2021 were Moisturizing & Hydrating (23%), Ethical - Animal/Fish & Bird (15%) and No Animal Ingredients (13%).

Increased skin hydration
The study on snow mushrooms found “better perceptual properties and skin care effects” in an emulsion containing the fungi’s extract compared to another without the active substance, specifically for epidermal hydration and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).

After one hour of application of the snow mushroom emulsion, an average 72% increase in skin hydration was observed by researchers. A further average 82% increase in skin hydration was observed after three hours of application. After five hours after application, an average sustained 65% increase in hydration was observed.

Additionally, a 20% to 34% reduction in TEWL was observed within one hour after applying the snow mushroom emulsion. After three hours of application, the decrease in TWEL went to 26% (on average); after five hours, this was 28%.

TEWL decreased by 12.4% compared to formulations without the snow mushroom active extract.Snow mushrooms can be used as an alternative to synthetic hyaluronic acid (Image Credit: Study).

Wider health benefits
Snow mushrooms have been traditionally used as a medicinal ingredient in traditional Chinese medicine. 

Previous research showed that the extract is safe for ingestion and topical application. When used in skin care, it has a “similar or even better effect than hyaluronic acid on binding water to the skin.” 

When comparing snow mushroom extract to the emulsion medium, “it absorbed water to a greater extent within 5 hours, and the absorption level did not decrease over time as it did with hyaluronic acid.”

The current study also found no irritation, erythema or swelling of the snow mushroom emulsion on human skin, concluding it was safe.

Other research also reports on the mushroom’s polysaccharides that have anticancer, wound healing, antioxidant, anti-aging and anti-inflammatory benefits, among others.

Durian actives and polysaccharides
Durian is known as the “king of fruit” in Southeast Asia. This fruit has shown promising physicochemical properties and biological, antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities, according to the researchers. 

The extracts can be used as antioxidants and as whitening agents in cosmetic products. “Crude durian extract can be used as an active ingredient, while the polysaccharide extract can be used as an active ingredient and as a raw material to improve cosmetic formulation stability and increase viscosity,” detail the authors.

“The polysaccharide extract showed rheological and sensorial properties, with a moisturizing effect on the skin. Formulations containing the extract did not irritate the skin, and no allergic reactions were reported by the volunteers. The product was considered safe to use as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations.” 

Young durian extracts possess high levels of antioxidants that help moisturize the skin while providing UV protection, revealed another Thai study. They found its biochemical composition and its potential use for bio-economy to produce skin care products that help farmers add value to their agricultural waste.

King of health
The scientists identify additional benefits of durian that include antioxidants such as lutein, zeaxanthin, lycopene, carotene and tocopherol, with antioxidant activity from phenolic compounds including caffeic acid, p-coumaric, cinnamic acid and vanillic acid.Durian extract has strong antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities.

Other beneficial compounds are flavonoids such as quercetin, myricetin, apigenin and kaempferol.

Moreover, the authors describe that polysaccharides are “highly biocompatible” and can be used as antibacterial agents for wound-healing applications.

Previous research revealed that the durian’s seed, peel and fruit inhibited melanogenesis (the production of pigments).

“Fatty acids from durian seed oil include unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid 14.95% and linoleic acid 12.46%, while the saturated fatty acids are stearic acid 45.84% and palmitic acid 26.75%,” note the study authors.

Fruit and fungi in the news
Upcycled food-grade bio ingredients such as coffee, tea, olives and a variety of fruit have been transitioning boldly into the mainstream. They present additional circular advantages for cosmetic, beauty and personal care companies looking to close the loop on their supply chains. 

In related news, Roelmi HPC recently created an active ingredient, Ener-GY plus, to target lines caused by expressions. Ener-GY plus is a microbiome-friendly ingredient made from upcycled active waters and contains citrus lemon fruit extract, glyceride glucoside, glycerin and potassium sorbate.

Earlier this year, researchers in Italy presented upcycled Royal Gala apple pomace as an alternative to microplastic-based thickening agents used in cosmetics or nutraceuticals.

Meanwhile, a Thai study uncovered cosmeceutical applications for cashew leaf extract’s anti-aging, skin-whitening and antioxidant applications.

Fungi-based ingredients have proliferated across a swathe of beauty formulations and are considered a prominent skin care trend for this year. The broad adaptability of mushroom extracts brings life to new applications, including fresh cosmetic colors to offset dependence on non-renewable colorants. This is propelling a new industry category – “mycocosmetics.”

By Venya Patel

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