BASF unveils fireweed ingredient targeting shiny skin, blemishes and enlarged pores

28 Sep 2023 --- BASF Personal Care has introduced an environmentally sustainably sourced cosmetic ingredient, branded Epispot that targets blemish-prone skin. Its characteristics are touted as “manifold, ranging from shiny skin and enlarged visible pores to spots and blemishes.”

Epispot is an extract of fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium), a plant that is responsibly sourced in France. BASF says it is suitable for a wide range of applications, from face serums to cleansers and even makeup formulations.

The ingredient addresses the root causes of an imbalance affecting lipids, microbiota and the skin’s natural defense system. 

Triple action clinically proven
The efficacy of Epispot was validated in a randomized, split-face study with 34 female volunteers. They applied an emulsion with 0.2% Epispot and a placebo emulsion twice daily for eight weeks, BASF details.

BASF outlines that skilled harvesters in France manually collect its fireweed and adheres to the rigorous guidelines.After 56 days, excess skin greasiness was reduced by 37% compared with the placebo group. The participants confirmed the anti-shine effect in a self-assessment: 88% perceived an immediate matte effect, which lasted all day for 78% of the women.

Epispot was also shown to improve the appearance of facial pores after 56 days of application, BASF highlights. 

In the questionnaire, all participants stated that their skin texture had improved, while the majority reported that their skin felt smoother (90%), and pores appeared to be tightened (88%). 

As a third mode of action, Epispot was found to contribute to a healthy glow: 90% of study participants said their skin appeared healthier at the end of the application period. All test results were backed by comprehensive in vitro testing.

Advanced ex vivo 3D model visualizes skin architecture
The effect of Epispot on skin oiliness has been tested using an ex vivo 3D model of the pilosebaceous unit, including the hair follicle, hair shaft and sebaceous gland. 

This new model is the result of a two-year internal research program by the company’s R&D team. “An innovative process makes the 3D skin structure transparent to better visualize skin architecture,” BASF states. 

“Combined with advanced microscopic techniques, it allows for an in situ evaluation of the effect of Epispot on skin oiliness at the source.”

Raw material responsibly harvested in France
Epispot is obtained through water extraction from the aerial parts of Epilobium angustifolium. This plant is also known as fire grass or phoenix flower as it thrives following forest fires and logging operations. 

BASF shares that skilled harvesters in France manually collect its fireweed and adheres to the rigorous guidelines set by the AFC, an association of French plant pickers that promotes respectful harvesting techniques to ensure environmentally sustainable management of wild plants.

Organic certified harvesting is carried out at six different locations to ensure species preservation through thoughtful rotation.

The sourcing approach of Epispot supports the goals of BASF’s Responsibly Active program for its cosmetic bioactives portfolio. The program aims to protect natural resources, support people along the value chain, and includes measures to reduce the company’s climate impact and operational footprint.

Edited by Benjamin Ferrer