In-Cosmetics Asia ’23 : Exhibitors discuss tropical formulations, evolving Chinese regulations and K-beauty in India

28 Sep 2023 --- Ahead of In-Cosmetics Asia held in Bangkok, Thailand, this November, exhibitors speak to Personal Care Insights about strategies and NPD to be presented at the trade show. Key highlights include lighter formulations suited to tropical climates, switching out synthetic additives with highly functional plant-based alternatives and the emergence of K-beauty phenomenon across India.

“Asia is a diverse and unique market with a growing trend toward e-commerce, especially in the beauty and personal care sectors. Social media plays a vital role in the decision-making process, driven primarily by region-specific influencers,” Sanjana Balani, founder of biotechnology-based skin care brand Potion Inc., tells us.

“Brands should prioritize value-driven products due to the price-sensitive nature of the market,” she continues. “Gradually investing in marketing specific benefits can help open doors to higher-quality product extensions.”

Asian consumers are increasingly becoming resistant to ingredients such as parabens, sulfates and silicones.“Tailoring products to specific needs is also of prime importance, as Asians have different skin types and preferences compared to the West. India, Indonesia and Vietnam are all promising markets expected to experience strong growth in the beauty and personal care industry.”

Climate-adapted formulations for balanced hydration
Asia’s skin care landscape is witnessing a shift toward lighter, water-based formulations, notes Balani. The sub-tropical climate has led consumers to seek skin care solutions that align with their active lifestyles.

“Traditional and time-tested ingredients like turmeric and rose are making a comeback, emphasizing their inherent benefits over therapeutic use,” she highlights. “Hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone and dehydration continue to be the region’s main concerns, resulting in skin care technologies like microdermabrasion and hydrafacials gaining popularity.”

There is also an increased focus on safety and efficacy in Asia, where regulators are ensuring that products are safe and effective for consumers. “Brands are expected to adhere to stricter requirements for product testing and labeling, in addition to reducing their environmental impact,” notes Balani.

Consumer consciousness in India
Asia is at the forefront of sustainability, with consumers becoming increasingly aware of ingredients like parabens, sulfates and silicones, Balani underscores.

“Due to India’s rich history, the government is increasingly promoting the use of natural and organic products in the personal care space, which has led to a resurgence of ingredient-led formulations and a wellness-first approach toward skin care,” she adds.

 Balani observes that skin care is increasingly becoming holistic, where consumers are educating themselves and seeking natural alternatives.

“For example, natural preservatives such as vitamin E and rosemary extract can be used in place of parabens, while coconut oil and shea butter are effective substitutes for phthalates,” she continues. 

“In India, coconut alkanes are extremely popular as a biodegradable alternative to silicone. These small shifts within the realm of personal care mark a remarkable stride toward more responsible and health-conscious consumerism.”

Exhibiting at In-Cosmetics Asia, Potion’s products are created in synergy with one another. “Our skin care line revolves around a three-step routine, designed to deliver enhanced results when used together,” says Balani.

“Every product contains ingredients that are sourced in their full form, with complete bioactive compounds so that the ingredients can penetrate the skin optimally. For example, our Clean Slate molecular cleanser contains neem and charcoal that, together, provide antibacterial as well as detoxifying properties.”

Potion On Guard Zinc Oxide Sunscreen with SPF (Image credit: Potion).K-beauty takeover in India
A presentation by Deugcheon Han, founder and CEO of Limese, a retailer of K-beauty products in India, covers the current trends in the K-beauty market in the nation, including popular ingredients and product types. 

“I’ll also briefly touch upon the impact of social media, pop culture and e-commerce on the industry. Additionally, I’ll share my personal insights on growing a business in this market,” Han tells us.

He details that some of the most emergent product development themes in India include blending natural and organic ingredients with popular actives, traditional Ayurvedic herbs, plant-based actives, and international ingredients like centella and snail mucin being developed locally.

Niche themes include environmentally sustainable packaging, clean beauty and inclusive beauty.

“Microbeads are being replaced by sugar, salt and apricot seeds,” Han continues. “Natural preservatives like essential oils and plant-derived preservatives are being used instead of parabens.”

“Similarly, we are seeing natural fragrances derived from essential oils replacing synthetic fragrances. Coconut-derived cleansing agents and soap bark extract are being used instead of sulfates.”

Stringent regulatory developments
Meanwhile, Han notes the Indian regulatory climate is shifting toward stricter safety and efficacy standards for personal care, beauty brands and suppliers. 

“The Cosmetics Safety and Efficacy Act requires safety assessments and ingredient labeling. The Legal Metrology department oversees labeling, and the Central Pollution Control Board regulates the use of plastic in packaging,” he says.

Overall, Indian consumers remain value-conscious and prefer products that are affordable and offer good quality. “Brands should consider localizing their products and marketing strategies to align with Indian values and preferences. Building trust through customer education and offering products that cater to specific skin tones and concerns are also important,” concludes Han.

Chinese consumers are paying more attention to product safety and sustainability, with higher requirements for precise and pure skin care products.China regulatory developments
A presentation by Jing Qiao, deputy director of CNCIC Compliance, will focus on the latest regulatory requirements for cosmetic ingredients in China, the registration process and registration status of the new ingredients under these new regulations, and respond to frequently asked questions.

“Chinese consumers pay more attention to product safety and sustainability, have higher requirements for precise skin care, and are increasingly keen on pure beauty products,” she tells Personal Care Insights. “In terms of composition, synthetic biological raw materials, Chinese characteristic plant raw materials, recombinant collagen and peptide raw materials have been gaining more and more attention.”

“China’s cosmetics regulatory system was updated in 2021, improving regulatory measures and increasing penalties for violations. This helped to standardize the whole cosmetics process, making the registration and filing process of new raw materials of cosmetics clearer, and greatly increasing the passing rate.”

Notably, seven categories of products, including cannabis cosmetics, stem cell cosmetics, 377 ordinary cosmetics, children’s makeup toys and food-grade cosmetics, have been banned or strictly regulated.

“When foreign brands enter China, products should first meet the requirements of cosmetics regulations, in terms of innovative effects, sufficient scientific basis should be provided, and online and offline publicity channels should be established.”

Overseas manufacturers of new ingredients are growingly concerned about the alternative methods of animal tests during the new ingredient registration in China, Qiao stresses. “At present, more and more alternative methods have been adopted by the safety technical specifications, but there are still some tests, and animal tests need to be carried out.”

By Benjamin Ferrer