IFSCC Congress 2025: South Korean science shines

South Korean science stood out at this year’s International Federation of Societies of Cosmetics Chemists (IFSCC) Congress in Cannes, France. Companies from around the globe gathered to showcase their tech-based beauty innovations.  

“In the past, there were many awards from Japanese cosmetics companies such as Shiseido, but now it seems that the research results of the Korean cosmetics industry have risen considerably,” said Kyung Seo-yeon, a senior researcher at Cosmax R&I Center.  

The science showcased at the event included results from the first human trial on grey hair. Cosmax, in partnership with Organoid Science, showed how stress hormones impact black hair growth and turn it grey, something that has previously only been shown in animal testing.

Meanwhile, Amorepacific revealed its AI makeup tool and how the skin microbiome differs between women’s age stages. 

Grey hair findings

Researchers from the South Korean company, Cosmax, revealed findings on how grey hair grows from stress, and received the “Basic Research” award at the congress.  

At the event, Kyung, who led the research using organoids, said it is the first study to confirm grey hairs in human testing. He said prior knowledge is only known through animal testing.

“It was difficult to develop cosmetic materials that suppress gray hair because the cosmetics industry has not conducted animal testing for 10 years,” said Kyung.

Based on this study’s findings, Cosmax is developing personal care products to prevent grey hair growth.The researchers administered the stress hormone norepinephrine into hair follicles, creating 100 strands of hair that grew for 120 days.

They found that the hairs grew out bright grey compared to the hairs that were not given the stress hormone. 

“The case of gray hair growth due to natural depletion of melanin-producing cells due to aging was different from that of stressful gray hair growth,” said Kyung.

Based on this study’s findings, Cosmax is developing personal care products to prevent grey hair growth.

AI and microbiome

In cosmetic innovations, Amorepacific unveiled research findings on AI-driven virtual makeup and the skin microbiome.

The company gave two presentations and five poster presentations at the event. The information showed how to speed up biological research on aging while integrating AI to further advance scientific findings. 

Amorepacific’s AI makeup technology is co-developed with the Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology. It uses generative AI image techniques, specifically for makeup application. By analyzing the user’s face shape and features. It can recommend personalized styles and give advice based off makeup trends. 

In scientific findings, Amorepacific shared results from a study on Korean women aged 20 and 60. The study analyzed the skin microbiome, physiological traits, and metabolites and found that microbiome profiles between the age groups were divided into three clusters rather than two.

Earlier this month, Amorepacific announced it would strengthen its business portfolio to rank among the top three global companies in the premium skin care sector. To accelerate the growth, the company is increasing its share of overseas sales to 70%.