Chemyunion blazing NPD for natural-based hair repair and skin cell renewal solutions

11 Apr 2022 --- Brazilian chemical manufacturer Chemyunion has unveiled a range of new product offerings, including hair repairing shampoo Restart PRO, spot lightening active ingredient Iselight, hair controlling spray Allinea and acne combating ingredient Miracne.

Mariana Yamamoto, skincare product and marketing manager at Chemyunion and Thiago Duccini, hair care marketing and product manager at Chemyunion, speak with PersonalCareInsights at the in-cosmetics Global trade show. Together, they delve into the science behind the ingredients and products for repairing hair damage and treating age spots on the skin. 

“Iselight was shortlisted – based on awards at in-cosmetics – because of the mechanism of the action that acts on the skin’s self-recycling processing, rescuing the cells’ metabolism and eliminating the pigment of aging spots,” shares Yamamoto. 

“It is also the first product that acts on the root cause of the age spot formation.” 

On Restart PRO, Duccini says: “We can offer more than 92% increase in strength – the biggest result we have had in our lab.” 

Flax and chia seed-based hair repair 
Duccini explains the concept behind Restart PRO, which “re-builds the hair from the inside.” It crosslinks unsaturated dicarboxylic acid (itaconic acid derived from corn), amino acid (arginine) and provitamin B5 

“Itaconic acid and arginine both create a bounce,” he adds. 

The itatonic acid is reportedly obtained sustainably by biotechnology. It reacts covalently with two amino groups. 

“NH2 and the sulfhydryl or thiol groups (SH) of the hair’s keratin through AZA-Michael and Michael reactions, which can form a modified keratin,” details Duccini.Restart PRO offers more than 92% increase in strength. 

According to the company, the intermolecular interactions with itaconic acid molecules and arginine lead to increased hair strength.  

Overall, the provitamin B5 from flax and chia seeds is said to help promote moisture retention, thickening, shine, softness, thermal protection and sealing the cuticles.

Chemyunion also notes consumers’ growing need for forming healthy habits, where hair care has evolved from a routine to a self-care ritual. Furthermore, the market to repair or prevent hair damage is predicted to result in global sales of US$12.2 billion by 2060.  

Only for bleached damaged hair?
Asking if Iselight is only meant to be used for bleached hair, Duccini says: “It is not just to be used for bleached hair, but the product can be added during the bleaching process. You can also apply it to mascaras, shampoos and leave-ins.”

“This product is flexible and intended to reach all customers who have chemical damage to their hair.”  

Apart from protecting the hair from chemical damage, the benefits of Restart PRO are said to protect hair strength by up to 89% compared to virgin hair and deliver up to 29% more shine. 

Additionally, the company shares that hair products are the most searched beauty category worldwide and that simplified beauty routines are popular.

Spotlighting Iselight for aging spots 
Aging is known to cause visible signs such as sagging, dryness and blemishes – caused by natural aging and stress by UV light exposure, light, food and psychological stress, shares Chemyunion. 

Furthermore, lipofuscin in the epidermis and dermis is caused by aging – age spots are not precisely caused due to melanin accumulation but by “the presence of lipofuscin inside the cell.” 

Lipofuscin is the response to cellular aging arising from the imbalance between the production of “garbage” – oxidized or damaged proteins, lipids and other cellular residues in lysosomes – and catabolism (or “recycling”) of this “garbage,” as the company puts it.

Mechanisms of autophagy and proteasome 
Autophagy is a process for the natural regeneration of the cells’ macromolecules, helping to balance the synthesis, degradation and recycling of the cellular components. Iselight, the first product that acts on the root cause of the age spot formation.   

However, autophagy alone is not enough to prevent the formation of lipofuscin. The proteasome is also required to mitigate the excess “cellular garbage” by catalyzing the biological reactions to digest damaged proteins. 

Therefore, Iselight targets the root cause of aging through autophagic and proteasome processes for an effective strategy to combat signs of aging. 

Chemyunion has found that Iselight improved the facial skin tone uniformity by 42% after 28 days and improved the land skin tone uniformity by 63% after 56 days. Additionally, it improved skin elasticity and texture uniformity by 50%. 

Iselight is also 100% naturally derived, vegan, GMO-free and preservative-free, says the company. 

Acne and hair frizz NPD
Apart from Iselight and Restart PRO, Chemyunion has unveiled Miracne and Allinea. Both products are 100% biodegradable, 95% Natural Origin Content and are not tested on animals.

Additionally, Allinea causes no hair damage, provides 24-hour protection against humidity and is made of upcycled lignin (paper waste from industry). It also offers 24-hour volume control and frizz control. 

Allinea is a temporary solution to hair volume and frizz using alpha-hydroxy acids, ethyl esters, disaccharide, coconut triglycerides and upcycled biopolymer from renewable plant-based sources lignin. 

The company suggests using it for leave-ins, conditioners, hair masks, styling creams and pre-brush sprays. 

Miracne was inspired by “maskne” – mask acne – caused by wearing masks during the COVID-19 pandemic. Acne also affects 9.4% of the world’s population, highlights Chemyunion. 

The ingredient was added to a Detox Facial Cleansing Bar that promotes the skin’s antioxidant system and smart exfoliation to reduce acne-causing bacteria and oiliness.

Miracne is described as a three-in-one multifunctional active ingredient that reduces bacteria Cutibacterium acnes, redness and sebum. It has been dermatologically tested to be effective within one minute and provide noticeable results within seven days, details the company. 

By Venya Patel reporting from the show floor of in-cosmetics 2022 in Paris, France