Clariant tackles under-eye contour and pigmentation with “eco-friendly” sweet potato root active

09 May 2022 --- Care chemicals company Clariant has unveiled Rootness Awake, an extract combating under-eye skin discoloration and inflammation by boosting firmness and “revitalized” eye contour. The Ipomoea batatas (sweet potato) root-derived ingredient is also fully traceable up to its seed state.

“Plant roots are able to produce specific molecules with beneficial properties. But to extract them, the plants normally need to be uprooted and therefore are destroyed,” Amandine Werle, marketing specialist at Clariant Active Ingredients, tells PersonalCareInsights.

“Plant Milking Technology has enabled us to use an eco-friendly process to discover active molecules with potent properties in sweet potato roots and to create an enriched extract with high efficacy in tackling many of the biological pathways responsible for the alteration of the eye contour,” shares Julie Droux, senior technical marketing specialist at Clariant Natural Ingredients. 

After seven days, the ingredient is noted to illuminate the eye contour, “reducing the red-color parameter by 18% and increasing brightness by 1.5%, for visible results.” 

Additionally, studies have found that it improves the eye contour firmness by 95% after seven days, according to Clariant. 

“Rootness Awake gives formulators new, unique opportunities to develop effective targeted care and eye contour products that contribute to progressing sustainability in skincare.”

Countering inflammation and saggingThe chemical name of Rootless Awake: “Propanediol (and) Water (and) Ipomoea Batatas root extract (and) Sodium Sulfate.” 
The active ingredient aids in decreasing the release of inflammatory mediators and reduces swelling and redness. Further, it stalls the microvascular network, which causes red and purple shades. Lastly, Rootless Awake has a skin firming effect.  

“As a result, eye bags and dark circles are visibly reduced, leading to a less fatigued, rejuvenated look,” says Werle. 

“Dark circles and puffiness accentuate a tired appearance and are common beauty concerns regardless of gender and age,” adds Droux. 

The bluish-red hue of the vascular network is worsened by lower collagen and elastic fibers as it sensitizes the area to pigmentation and skin sagging. 

The counter area around the eye is also one the first places to be affected by signs of aging as it is one of the thinnest skin areas. 

Inflammation in cells caused by pollution and UV radiation, stress, chronic lack of sleep, and an unhealthy lifestyle exacerbate this area’s disruption and the visible effects, notes the company.

“Science-backed efficacy”
Rootless Awake is backed by science, showing that it strengthens the fragility around the eye. 

The ingredient thickens the skin by “stimulating cell metabolism and down-regulating the expression of genes responsible for extracellular matrix degradation (MMPs),” shares the company. 

“Rootness Awake is rich in dicaffeoylquinate esters (DCQEs),” shares Werle. 

“[DCQEs] it modulates persistent release of inflammatory mediators, helps limit the development of vascular network, reduces hyperpigmentation, limits skin thinning and reinforces skin firmness,” she says.

The root extract was tested in-vitro, ex-vivo, and in clinical evaluations carried over 28 days on women aged 18 to 35 years – showing signs of fatigue. Rootless Awake can be applied in cream and lotion, says the company.

After 28 days, eye counter firmness was improved by 149%, with reduced puffiness by 30% after seven days. 

“Rootness Awake is shown to improve and smooth out dark circles, reduce puffiness, and strengthen eye contour stiffness. The overall result is a lightened, more “awake” eye contour,” finds the company. 

Plant Milking Technology
The sourcing of the ingredient is sustainable using an aeroponic system (cultivation without soil). 

The Plant Advanced Technologies (PAT) company stimulates the roots for a focused production of targeted molecules in higher quantities than naturally occurring vegetables. 

“Roots are the richest part of plants, yet widely unexplored,” assets PAT. 

“As the roots are directly accessible, they can be stimulated by specific nutritive solutions to boost the production of active molecules. The roots are then cut without destroying the plant to extract these active molecules. The plant will grow new roots and several harvests can be done during the life cycle of the plant,” explains Werle. 

“As this cultivation process is done in greenhouses, no agricultural lands are used and the water consumption is reduced thanks to controlled spraying and water recycling. This process is eco-friendly, fully traceable from the seed to the extract, and 100% made in France.” 

“Root exudation is a non-destructive process that “milks” the same plants several times a year,” says Clariant. 

The technology also recycles water and optimizes a plant’s capacity, with no plant destruction during harvest.

“The sweet potato is an ingredient that is an important source of food thanks to its high nutritional value. Originating from South America, it expanded to Asia, Oceania, Europe and Africa,” shares Werle.

By Venya Patel