Rising INCI scrutiny leaves consumers short on ingredient context

Consumers are scrutinizing beauty labels more closely, with many turning to ingredient-scanning apps for help. Although these tools provide rapid access to ingredient information. Lauren Leonard, global market development manager at Eastman, a global specialty materials company, flags that these tools could lack essential context: why those ingredients matter, how they contribute to a product’s performance, or their sustainability profile.

Beauty lovers’ growing product criticism creates an opportunity for brands to move beyond disclosure and help consumers understand the science behind their solutions.

INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the standardized naming system used to identify cosmetic ingredients on product labels. 

Leonard cites findings from Eastman’s Global Skin Research suggesting that nearly 40% of consumers examine ingredient lists for sustainable ingredients.

However, she flags that consumers may be skeptical of a beauty product’s listed ingredients before they understand the full context.

Leonard tells Personal Care Insights why translating ingredient science into consumer benefits is becoming a competitive advantage for beauty brands. 

“An INCI list tells consumers which ingredients are present in a product and gives them a starting point for further research. In some cases, brands may also disclose the concentration of a featured active ingredient. What the list does not provide is the context behind those ingredients, including why they are included, how they contribute to product performance, the data or evidence supporting their safety, or sustainability attributes,” she says. 

That context is increasingly important to more ingredient-conscious consumers. Apps, social media, and other online sources are filling a gap to inform consumers, but may not include the full reasoning for an ingredient’s inclusion. 

Eastman’s research found that 39% of consumers examine facial skin care ingredients when seeking sustainable products.Leonard says credible information helps consumers understand what is in a formulation and the role and attributes of ingredients in it.

Ingredient-scanning tools

Ingredient-scanning apps and rating systems have become influential tools in purchasing decisions because they provide consumers with quick, accessible interpretations of often complex ingredient lists. “They can help raise awareness of their choices and encourage consumers to engage more actively with product information,” Leonard shares. 

However, she states that simplified ratings may sometimes not explain an ingredient’s safety, sustainability, or performance profile within the finished formulation.

“Several factors may influence an ingredient score. For example, an ingredient may be widely considered safe at the levels typically used in cosmetics. At the same time, its overall assessment may still depend on considerations such as concentration, performance, sustainability, and intended use.” 

The distinction and understanding of cosmetic ingredients are why clear, transparent, and data-driven consumer communication is crucial, asserts Leonard. “By providing information on ingredient function, safety, biodegradability, and performance, the industry can directly help consumers better understand the role of individual ingredients within the context of the finished formulation.”

“While simplified ratings can serve as a useful starting point, collaboration between ingredient suppliers and brands remains one of the most effective ways to provide transparent and relevant ingredient information to help build trust and support informed purchasing decisions.” 

Language and transparency 

Conversations about beauty ingredients often come down to clarifying the role of that ingredient in a specific formulation, according to Leonard. 

She says it’s not about turning consumers into formulators — it’s about helping them understand how an ingredient contributes to a product’s texture, stability, biodegradability, sensory experience, or overall performance. 

“Consumers want transparency, and it’s creating an opportunity for ingredient suppliers and brands to work more closely on simplifying these complex conversations.”

What is changing is the level of transparency consumers expect. “As [consumers] become more inquisitive about ingredient lists, brands must provide context supported by credible data. This is where the supplier-brand relationship becomes critical,” says Leonard. 

Future of beauty formulationsConsumers are becoming more inquisitive and want to understand all of the ingredients in their beauty products.

Leonard believes consumers are becoming more curious about the ingredients in their products. Thus, brands are responding with more detailed information on their websites and other platforms. However, data and information without context can create confusion or misinformation. 

“As an industry, our goal should be to work together to help clarify why an ingredient is included and the role it plays in formulation,” says Leonard. 

Leonard believes that “some brands today are doing a great job of using that information to educate consumers about their formulations and demystify certain ingredients through their websites, social media channels, and partnerships with influencers.”

Looking ahead, Leonard predicts that the partnership between brands and suppliers will become increasingly important. As consumers continue to want to know more about the products they use, she expects to see “even more opportunities to expand ingredient stories.” 

“Suppliers can help provide brands with substantiated, consumer-relevant information about ingredient functionality, efficacy, and sustainability attributes that can support brands in translating that information into clear, consistent stories across channels.”

The opportunity is to make disclosure more useful, not just more extensive, helping consumers understand what goes into the products they value, while giving them access to the level of detail they want without overwhelming them,” Leonard concludes.