Clariant unveils retinol VitiSpheres R8 with advanced anti-aging potency
23 Nov 2022 --- Clariant’s novel encapsulated retinol VitiSpheres R8 protects the anti-aging potency of retinol, the vitamin A derivative, a key nutrient in boosting cell turnover allowing for safe infusion of higher concentrations in creams and serums.
“While consumers across all generations are increasingly seeking out retinol for its benefit in reducing the appearance of wrinkles, it does have two drawbacks which dramatically lowers its potential use” says Thomas Lukowicz, global application development manager at Clariant.
“It can cause irritations when not properly dosed, and it is not stable in cosmetic formulations, meaning its properties can degrade prior to application.”
VitiSpheres R8 overcomes these challenges by stabilizing the retinol in formulations over time and enables a controlled, prolonged release into the epidermis skin layer.
Delivers high molecule charges
The multilayer encapsulated retinol is an easy-to-formulate, drop-in solution for formulators to deliver high molecule charges without compromising the skin.
“Brands and formulators benefit from stable, well-protected retinol, which expands possibilities for higher efficacy products suited to a broad range of skin types,” says Lukowicz. 
Retinol VitiSpheres R8 prevents a sudden irritation-inducing retinol overload, even at high concentrations.
Another industry advance shows solutions created by PerformanceLabs to combine vitamin C and retinol by using them alternatively or day and night to mitigate the risk of skin barrier damage when used together at once.
Vitamin C and retinol have been considered “powerhouses” in the skincare world separately, but PerformanceLabs reports they can function even better together when applied strategically.
Vitamin C is a skin brightener for achieving radiant skin and contains some anti-aging properties. Retinol is a potent ingredient that eliminates blemishes and wrinkles quicker.
Meanwhile, Aforé published a research paper showcasing the methods and results of topically applying retinol and cannabidiol (CBD). The study proves the effectiveness of CR Emulsion, a face cream containing CBD, retinol, peptides and hyaluronic acid.
Patented system to protect retinol
In VitiSpheres R8, retinol molecules are held within the solid-lipid core of a leak-proof multilayered capsule. The patented system protects the retinol from oxidation, ensuring stability in formulations. This maintains the bioavailability of the retinol and reduces the potential loss of beneficial properties during formulation and across a long shelf-life.
Retinol is only released on skin contact at skin temperature. The ingredient melts when applied and releases the retinol gradually into the skin. This prevents a sudden irritation-inducing retinol overload, even at high concentrations.
A Slovenia-based study unveiled the “promising potential” of nanoformulations containing retinoids for topical delivery. The use of nanotechnology in anti-aging cosmetics is the fastest-growing segment in the skin care industry, the researchers state.
Edited by Inga de Jong
