Eastman launches biodegradable micropowder for skin care and SPF formulations

Eastman has launched Esmeri SK1N10, a biodegradable micropowder for skin care and SPF applications that aims to balance sustainability with consumer demand for sensorial performance. The release comes amid tightening synthetic ingredient regulations. 

Esmeri SK1N10 is a non-nano cellulose ester micropowder that is compatible with use in aqueous and oil-in-water systems.

The ingredient is touted to deliver an immediate soft-focus blurring effect, a quick dry-down to reduce tackiness, and shine control for a matte finish. Its potential applications span serums, creams, moisturizers, sprays, eye treatments, and sunscreens. It is also compatible with formulations featuring actives such as retinoids.

In sun care, the micropowder is said to heighten the performance of organic and inorganic UV filters through UV scattering. This has an SPF-boosting effect that can reduce UV-filter concentrations while also improving sensory characteristics.

Esmeri SK1N10 arrives in a skin care and SPF market that is navigating increasingly complex sustainability demands, while consumers’ performance requests are becoming more scrutinous.

Lauren Leonard, global market development manager at Eastman, tells Personal Care Ingredients about the biggest gaps in sustainability and performance satisfaction in skin and sun care. We discuss the impact of tightening regulations around microplastics, the challenges of assuring performance in SPF, and how Esmeri SK1N10 addresses tradeoffs. 

“Esmeri SK1N10 was developed to address a key challenge that formulators face today: achieving the sensory and performance benefits consumers expect while advancing biodegradability goals,” says Leonard.

Eastman targets demand for alternatives to conventional synthetic polymer micropowders.

Unmet market needs

Eastman conducted a survey with 150 R&D professionals from personal care consumer goods companies. Half expected biodegradability of their ingredient portfolio to become mainstream in their respective regions within two to five years. However, 52% report satisfaction with current market offerings.

In a parallel survey of 6,000 women and girls aged 12–70 across six countries, 45% reported having difficulty finding facial skin care products that meet all their needs. Eastman reports that respondents identified sticky product texture, post-application greasiness, and a lack of visible results as common frustrations.

“One of the biggest gaps today is the ability to deliver product performance and sensory benefits while also meeting growing sustainability expectations. Formulators are increasingly being asked to achieve both,” says Leonard. 

“Many established synthetic polymer microparticles, such as polymethyl methacrylate and nylon-12, provide the performance and sensory experience, but are not compliant with upcoming EU microplastic regulations.”

She explains that Esmeri SK1N10 gives formulators a way to replace these commonly used microplastics, while maintaining the functionality consumers expect across skin care and sun care applications.

The biodegradable micropowder can be incorporated into serums, creams, moisturizers, and sunscreens.

Compared with conventional micropowders

Leonard says that consumers’ demand for products that improve the appearance of skin while maintaining a desirable feel is even more challenging when creating SPF formulations. She explains that UV protection and sensory properties must work together.

In addition to strict consumer demands, heightened sustainability commitments, and evolving policy requirements are reshaping how companies evaluate ingredients and develop new products.

“The European Commission’s Regulation (EU) 2023/2055, commonly referred to as the EU microplastics regulation, is prompting brands to evaluate alternatives to intentionally added synthetic polymer microparticles,” says Leonard.

She underlines the findings of Eastman’s survey of 150 R&D professionals, stating the growing expectations that biodegradability will become mainstream in the industry in the coming half-decade. 

“As companies work to balance performance and sustainability objectives, ingredients that can support both priorities are becoming increasingly important, and Esmeri SK1N10 was developed to help address that need,” she explains.

“Because every formulation is different, close collaboration between ingredient suppliers and brands is essential when incorporating new ingredients. Drawing on more than a century of experience in cellulose chemistry, Eastman provides extensive data, formulation guidance, and technical expertise to help brands’ customers integrate our new biodegradable micropowders effectively.”