PerformanceLabs finds solution to combine vitamin C and retinol in skincare routines

20 Sep 2022 --- PerformanceLabs has prompted solutions to combine the use of vitamin C and retinol, by using them alternatively or by day and night, to mitigate the risk of skin barrier damage when used together at once. Vitamin C and retinol have been considered “powerhouses” in the skincare world separately, but PreformanceLabs reports they can function even better together when applied strategically.

Vitamin C is a skin brightener for achieving radiant skin and contains some anti-aging properties. Retinol is a potent ingredient that promotes cell turnover in the skin, eliminating blemishes and wrinkles at a quicker pace.

Two ingredients together
Even though vitamin C and retinol are considerably influential in anti-aging, brightening, and maintaining the skin barrier, using them simultaneously could cause skin irritation and make them malfunction, says PerformanceLabs. 

The first issue with combining the two ingredients is that they have, and need, different pHs to function. 

PerformanceLabs believes that combining retinol with vitamin C benefits skin health. Retinol performs the best between 5.0 and 6.0 pH, whereas vitamin C requires a pH of 3.5 or lower. If it is higher, vitamin C cannot effectively penetrate the skin to provide benefits. Combining these pHs would cause both to be not at all or less effective.  

The second issue regards solubility. As retinol is a fat-soluble compound, and vitamin C is a water-soluble compound, vitamin C would be unable to be fully absorbed into the skin due to its inability to dissolve properly. 

Some ways to combine the ingredients and maintain their effectiveness are using vitamin C during the day and retinol at night. Retinol should always be applied at night as it makes skin photosensitive due to its intensity.

Alternating between vitamin C one night and retinol the other is another route. Both may be used in one night by applying the vitamin C 30 minutes before the retinol.

Vitamin C shines 
Vitamin C, also ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant that protects cells and prevents free radical damage and oxidative stress. It is water-soluble and often used as an oral supplement for immune health. 

Ascorbic acid, when used with vitamin E, is very effective in reducing oxidative damage to the skin. It helps to regenerate vitamin E after oxidation which recycles the lipid-soluble radical scavenger and reduces oxidative damage to cell membranes. 

The ingredient neutralizes free radicals to prevent them from damaging epithelial cells, which increases skin stress. Not checking for free radical damage can affect natural skin cell production and collagen in the dermis layer of the skin, where vitamin C is the most present. 

The ingredient also enhances the production of barrier lipids, which protects against water loss. Lesser water loss keeps skin hydrated by preserving the skin barrier and retaining moisture in the skin. 

Retinol rejuvenation
Retinol, or vitamin A’s role is to renew skin cells. It is one of four fat-soluble vitamins. Additionally, retinol increases cell turnover, making it valuable for anti-aging, acne and scarring treatments. 

“It can improve several aspects of skin health, such as tone and texture, reduce the appearance of dark spots, promote collagen production and brighten skin,” explains PreformanceLabs. 

Vitamin C supports collagen production Retinol and vitamin C contain many benefits for improving different aspects of the skin’s appearance.  
Collagen is highly sought after based on rising trends giving the collagen market a CAGR of 9.0% from 2020 to 2028. Consumers can purchase it in capsules, liquids and powders that are ingested with promises of healthier skin and hair. 

Many companies in the beauty industry promote their products by declaring they increase collagen production in the skin. It is the most abundant protein in the body that comprises virtually all tissues.

Ascorbic acid supports the skin’s natural regenerative process and promotes collagen production. It can improve tone and texture, reduce the appearance of dark spots and brighten skin.

That is done by vitamin C acting as a co-factor for proline and lysine hydroxylases. Those enzymes are required to stabilize the collagen structure and gene expression. Insufficient levels of vitamin C will result in decreased total synthesis and decreased crosslinking of collagen.

Changes in collagen and elastin fibers have been linked to aging skin. To combat aging, retinol stimulates collagen fiber synthesis in fibroblasts. It removes degenerated elastin fibers and promotes the formation of new blood vessels. 

Retinol, however, is a type of retinoid – typically prescription strength, such as the progressively popular ingredient, tretinoin. 

Tretinoin is one of the most researched retinoids and has been shown to function in supporting collagen production.

Edited by Sabine Waldeck