Microbiome-activated skin perfector: Givaudan Active Beauty NPD tackles mask-induced skin issues

28 Sep 2021 --- Givaudan Active Beauty is using biocatalysis and microbiomics to tackle skin issues related to wearing face masks. The company is launching Masknyl, an active ingredient able to counteract redness, inflammation and hyperpigmentation due to mask-wearing.

“The skin microbiome is rising as a trend as consumers become even more educated on it. We can now see it promoted on finished products, and skin microbiome is now more than a trend for consumers, it’s a claim,” Pauline Martin, operational marketing & communication manager, Givaudan Active Beauty, tells PersonalCareInsights.

Crafted by white biotechnology and activated by the skin microflora, this phytoactive ingredient is designed to be efficacious within only 24 hours, the company says. 

“Masknyl is a phytoactive ingredient crafted from sophorin (phytomelin), a flavonoid with well-documented benefits in terms of antioxidant action, soothing and wound-healing,” says Mathias Fleury, category manager for Active Beauty.

“The ingredient is already used in the cosmetic industry at a limited dosage due to its poor solubility. However, biotechnology has enabled us to improve the bioavailability of sophorin through glycosylation to craft Masknyl.” 

“This new China compliant molecule is activated by the skin microflora and improves solubility by a factor of 14,000, offering rapid efficacy in terms of soothing and anti-redness activity.”

The ingredient visibly reduces red spots and heals skin inflammation in just 24 hours.Overcoming maskne hurdles
Familiar to 74% of consumers worldwide, the term “maskne” refers not just to breakouts but a range of skin issues due to mask-wearing such as sensitivity, redness and inflammation. 

“With more than 60% of the population continuing to wear face masks for public transportation and indoor activities, consumers will need to take care of their skin more than ever before,” the company notes.

Skin discomfort and sensitivity experienced by consumers around the world have been aggravated by the use of face masks during the COVID-19 pandemic, the company adds. 

The warm, humid environment created by breathing inside a face mask creates the ideal microclimate for excessive bacterial growth, quickly generating pore obstructions and pimples. 

This is exacerbated by the constant rubbing of the mask and its straps, further inflicting redness and irritation.  

Results in 24 hours
Following activation by the skin microbiome, Masknyl offers triple action on the skin at a biological level.

Clinical tests on volunteers wearing masks demonstrated that the phytoactive is able to:

• Visibly reduce red spots and heal skin inflammation in just 24 hours (in particular where a surgical mask has been worn), by -34.2% versus placebo.
• Control and reduce hyperpigmentation and brown spots in just four days (-3.5% versus placebo).
• Improve skin comfort and texture, with 74% of panelists highlighting the fact that their skin was softer and less tight.
• Be a smart solution for cosmetic efficacy.

White biotechnology enabled Givaudan to improve the bioavailability of sophorin through glycosylation to craft Masknyl.
Givaudan’s Active Beauty team has crafted Mask Tonic, powered by Masknyl to prevent all kinds of skin discomfort due to mask-wearing. 

Suitable for all skin types and family members (from three years old) the 92% natural-origin genderless day cream reduces redness and controls hyperpigmentation. 

“Thanks to PrimalHyal 300 and Unitamuron H-22 Green, it protects, repairs and increases elasticity,” the company says.

“The application of this light emulsion provides a delicate sensation of freshness, leaving skin perfectly hydrated even when covered.”

Skin microbiome trends
The skin’s microbiome is increasingly gaining popularity within the skin health arena. In this space, Vichy Laboratoires launched Minéral 89 Prebiotic Recovery & Defense Concentrate, within its Minéral 89 product collection, formulated with prebiotics to fight visible signs of aging brought on by stress.  

Meanwhile, Dermala unveiled a soothing daily moisturizer for blemish-prone skin, called OAT So Sweet, formulated with prebiotics and postbiotics. 

In addition, Dermala received a US patent for solutions that utilize the skin and the gut microbiome to slow down the skin aging process. 

The company’s technology uses microbiome formulations and delivery methods to restore biologically “younger” skin and gut microbiomes in older adults.

Notable Givaudan NPD
Givaudan Active Beauty also launched Mangixyl, a microbiome-friendly ingredient that targets oily skin through sebum regulation. 

The “fully natural” ingredient regulates sebum production (down to 15.9% after one month depending on complexion) to relieve the discomfort caused by oily skin – a widespread concern for consumers around the world, the company explains.

The company has had a very active year, with launches such as Omegablue, a cosmetic ingredient created from wild bilberries, which boasts “advanced skin repair” properties.

It also unveiled Zanthalene, a scalable natural active ingredient made by green fractionation. The company says it can provide well-aging effects and soothing benefits depending on its concentration in formulas. 

Earlier this month, the company launched a botanical active ingredient, coined Sericoside, that restores skin to its best version and promotes healthy aging through cellular reprogramming.

By Kristiana Lalou