Mineral mindset: Omya roams the cosmos with waterless makeup launch at in-Cosmetics

14 Feb 2023 --- Swiss mineral producer Omya is making an eco-friendly statement at in-Cosmetics Global with a “waterless” range of personal care products featuring natural minerals and ingredients.

“Their high purity and controlled low microbiology reduce the risk of undesired interactions between trace elements and active ingredients to a minimum. Particles have exceptionally low levels of aluminum, manganese and cadmium,” Stefan Lander, VP of consumer goods, group sales and marketing at Omya, tells PersonalCareInsights.

The R&D team has developed anhydrous formulations with advanced minerals such as Omyaskin and Omyadent particles, in line with the solid cosmetics trend. The prototypes are easy to disperse and apply for a sensory experience. 

A few prototypes will be featured at in-Cosmetics Global, from tooth tabs and powders for remineralization and desensitization to charcoal-containing, waterless detox masks and solid makeup removers.

“Thanks to high purity and controlled low microbiology connected with a low moisture level, the mineral particles reduce potential contamination to a minimum and thus promise a long shelf-life without the use of harsh preservatives,” Lander explains. 

“The resulting prototypes are easy to apply and provide consumers with multisensory experiences.”   

Magic of the spheres
Cosmospheres, a visual natural ingredient solution that concentrates actives and ensures their release during the application, is one of Omya’s wildcard exhibits. The cellulosic beads keep liquid or powder actives in colorful spheres suspended in various water-retaining products.

The beads are suitable for a variety of personal care formulations. The Cosmospheres maintain their color and shape throughout the life of the product. 

Gentle friction during application allows the spheres to disperse and release their content, leaving no residue. The Charcol Cosmospheres toothpaste will be displayed at in-Cosmetics, while other formulations can be discussed with Omya experts.

Specializing mainly in the production of fillers and pigments from calcium carbonate and dolomite, the company will showcase applications for skin, oral use, hair care and makeup that reduce water use and transport during production and packaging.

The mineral particles ease the processing and optimize the end product’s characteristics. 

Floating colors through the cosmosThe prototypes showcased at in-Cosmetics Global provide a sensory experience when applied (Credit: Omya Group).
Omya offers holistic combinations of the COSMOS-certified Omyacare grades and natural colorants for makeup and color cosmetics from its distribution portfolio. The high-purity minerals are color-enhancing and an ideal match for natural colors such as the trendy color-dispersible reds out of radish, sweet potato or elderberry. 

“Omya provides natural colors and colorants selectively extracted from natural material. For decorative cosmetics, such as the color dispersible (CD) vegetal reds, an integral natural coloring system for oil-based and waterless cosmetic applications,” Lander says.

Due to a special process, CD vegetal reds benefit from higher temperatures and light stability performance than traditional anthocyanins. CD Vegetal Reds comprise three different tones of red color pigments originating from anthocyanins: purple sweet potato (Ipomoea Batatas), red radish (Raphanus Sativus) and elderberry (Sambucus Nigra L).

A sensory hub at Omya’s in-Cosmetic booth will allow attendees to view and feel prototypes. The trade show will take place in Barcelona, Spain from March 28-30. 

Conserving water and looking good
Creating a waterless or water-reduced personal care or oral care product is technically challenging. The natural profile of the range further complicates the production of the new Omya range.

“Today, 2.3 billion people live in water-stressed countries, which is a major consideration in the sustainability profile of finished products. However, water is an effective and inexpensive solvent and can account for up to 90% of a formulation,” Lander laments.

The personal care and makeup range boast a long shelf life minus harsh preservatives. 

The products offer multisensory experiences for consumers and are vegan, halal and kosher. 

Meanwhile, plant-sourced formulations are gaining traction across the personal care market as consumers increasingly lean toward eco-centric beauty and packaging.

“Omya has been closely connected to natural, high-quality raw materials. Therefore, we are committed to treating the environment sustainably to ensure innovations that promise to protect the needs of current and future generations.” 

“We feel proud to contribute to natural, renewable and pioneering solutions that respect nature, biodiversity and the importance of human health,” Lander concludes.

By Inga de Jong