Pat McGrath’s “porcelain glass skin” glistens at Maison Margiela haute couture show

02 Feb 2024 --- Pat McGrath captivates makeup enthusiasts, with artists recreating the doll-esque looks seen at Maison Margiela’s spring haute couture show. 

Dubbed online as “alien” or “porcelain” skin, the viral makeup look takes the popular “glass skin” look to the next level. Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection 2024, designed by creative director John Galliano, explored the ritual of dressing as a physical expression of emotion.

“The collection explored the idea of Paris by moonlight on the Seine, with exquisite muses coming to life in a beautiful tableau and in a painterly way,” says the editorial and runway makeup artist.

Pat McGrath Labs’ avant-garde makeup is inspired by a moonlit walk along the Seine in Paris.“The highlight of the look was this modern take on porcelain glass skin, which we achieved by making the models’ faces as shiny and reflective as glass.”

Couture makeup collection
Pat McGrath Labs introduces an avant-garde makeup collection dubbed as an experimental approach to silhouette, texture and couture techniques. The collection, which was inspired by a moonlit stroll, features an ensemble of muses.

The model’s brows are bleached and replaced with pencil-thin arches drawn in neutral-toned shadows. The minimalist approach accentuates the eyes, which showcases a range of “painterly” eye looks, each presented in jewel tones, pastels or “moody” charcoals.

To evoke a “doll-like flush,” McGrath applies a cream blush to the center of the cheeks. Pat McGrath Labs challenges traditional beauty norms with subversive lip shades ranging from blooded red to deep black, topped with a clear gloss for a “surreal” looking pout.

The “metamorphosis” is attained by coating the model’s skin in a hyper-shiny glaze that mimics smooth, reflective glass. 

Makeup products used
Pat McGrath has not yet revealed what product was used to create the porcelain effect. However, fans on social media are experimenting with a clear gel-based peel-off face mask. Layers are applied by airbrushing or using a brush after being diluted in water and allowed to dry completely between layers. 

The celebrity makeup artist says she used the following products to achieve the other features of the look:

• Skin prep: Divine Skin: Rose 001 The Essence.
• Skin complexion: Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Primer, Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Foundation, Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Concealer, Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Loose Setting Powder, Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Blurring Under-Eye Powder.
• Cheeks and highlighter: Heart’s Desire Collection: Skin Fetish: Sublime Skin Highlighter in Nude Opal, Divine Blush: Legendary Glow Colour Balm in Peach Lotus and Forbidden Fleur.
• Eyes: Mothership VI: Midnight Sun, Mothership I: Subliminal, Blitz Astral Quad: Nocturnal Nirvana, FetishEYES Mascara.
• Brows: Mothership I: Subliminal. 
• Lips: Lust: Gloss in Nude Negligee, MatteTrance Lipstick in Beautiful Stranger, Guinevere or McMenamy.

The collection showcases painterly eye looks in jewel tones, pastels, or moody charcoals.Glass skin fad
The American Cosmetic Association unveiled the top five makeup trends last year, with glass skin being the top, followed by monochromatic makeup and graphic eyeliner.

The top skin care trends were revealed by Cult Beauty last year, with Korean skin care in third place. The glass skin trend originated in South Korea and was adopted by Western beauty trends.

Glass skin ranked second with 888,836 Instagram hashtags, 3.3 billion TikTok hashtags, and 26,400 monthly Google searches.

Meanwhile, dewy skin was in the lead with 801,878 Instagram hashtags, 436 million TikTok hashtags and 1.5 million monthly Google searches.

According to LookFantastic, hair trends received over 4.4 billion views on TikTok in 2023. This will continue in 2024, with “glass hair care” emerging.

“The popular ‘glass skin’ cosmetics trend will likely make its way into hair care, as more consumers seek the desired result of glossy or glass-effect locks achieved from oil and serum hair care formulations,” says Keely Gough, managing director at LookFantastic.

By Venya Patel