Retinol 50: BASF rolls out new grade of vitamin A made stable without BHA or BHT

27 Jul 2023 --- BASF has developed Retinol 50, which does not include suspected endocrine disruptors and potentially carcinogenic substances BHA and BHT. The specialty chemicals supplier underscores the rapidly growing demand for clean and conscious beauty solutions.

“With the addition of Retinol 50 to our portfolio, BASF continues to meet consumer and industry requirements for clean-conscious beauty products,” says Nader Mahmoud, VP of business management for BASF’s Personal Care North America division.

“As a key supplier of retinol to the market, BASF Care Chemicals must continue to optimize our portfolio and innovate for the market demands of today and the future.”

Innovation in the retinol space remains a focus for BASF. The company’s portfolio of retinol offerings include grades suitable for different use cases, allowing formulators to make selections based on their desired claim space and target demographic.

Harmful effects of topical BHT and BHA
Used in both skin care and food applications, BHT is a stabilizer antioxidant that helps maintain the properties and performance of a product as it is exposed to air.

According to the Haz-Map database of hazardous chemicals, topically applied BHA and BHT can induce allergic reactions in the skin for some consumers.Last November, the European Commission amended its recommended guidelines for using BHT. It concluded that there is a potential risk to human health arising from the use of BHT in leave-on and rinse-off products – as well as in mouthwash and toothpaste – when the concentration of that substance exceeds certain levels.

BHA, on the other hand, is an acid ingredient that works as an exfoliant to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for improving overall skin texture.

According to the Haz-Map database of hazardous chemicals and occupational diseases, topically applied BHA and BHT can induce allergic reactions in the skin for some people. 

BHT is listed in the database as a “rare” skin sensitizer, while BHA has been found to trigger allergic contact dermatitis and asthma in some recorded instances.

In research published by the US National Library of Medicine, a rat model study found that BHT applied to the skin has been associated with toxic effects in lung tissue, in addition to liver and kidney effects.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies BHA as a possible human carcinogen. However, this evidence was also taken from a rat model study.

The shift away from BHT and BHA has been evidenced in other recent launches this year, such as in Givaudan’s introduction of RetiLife – a 100% natural-origin retinol made with sunflower oil as a carrier.

BASF ingredient pipeline
A talking point flagged by BASF is that potentially harmful BHA and BHT continue to be included in many so-called “clean” beauty product launches. However, it is to be noted that the global chemicals manufacturer still holds a portfolio that supplies formulations containing both these substances.

BASF flags that potentially harmful BHA and BHT continue to be featured in beauty product launches with the clean label positioning.For instance, BASF’s Vitamin A-Palmitate Care 1.0 active ingredient – marketed as an antioxidant for cosmetic oils, emulsions and other preparations – is stabilized with BHT.

BASF also offers its Beta-Hydroxyde ACSD ingredient, which is a “gentle BHA” formulated to effectively exfoliate without stinging. It is a blend of salicylic acid and acacia proteins that “accurately targets” dead cells without penetrating the lower, living skin.

Business activities
In other global developments, the chemicals supplier expanded its alkoxylation capacity in Antwerp, Belgium and Ludwigshafen, Germany last month, slated for the second quarter of the year. Alkoxylation is used to produce surfactants for the home care industry and for other industrial and institutional cleaning applications.      

Earlier this month, BASF’s Personal Care division released a revised version of its active ingredient Laricyl that features a “more sustainable” cultivation of the Fomes officinalis mushroom with “enhanced efficacy.” The company cultivates the mycelium – the vegetative part of the fungus – by solid-state fermentation. This replaces the harvesting of the mushroom from the wild.

In April, the company’s preliminary numbers for the first quarter of the fiscal year were flagged as “considerably lower than average analyst estimates” with the supplier predicting a decline in sales.

By Benjamin Ferrer