Antioxidant shampoo tech: Spotlighting novel caffeine and mangosteen peel formulations
27 Jul 2023 --- A new shampoo formulation technology that delivers antioxidants from caffeine for improving hair retention has been presented by a team of researchers in Germany. In a separate study, a peel extract from the fruit Garcinia mangostana showed bioactivities when formulated in a botanical shampoo, delivering benefits to the hair and scalp.
Antioxidant protection from caffeine
In previous research, the formula was found to “effectively” deliver piroctone olamine, an antioxidant and anti-dandruff agent, to the scalp and follicles. The new study finds that caffeine, in parallel to piroctone olamine delivery, was also “effectively” delivered to the skin surface and follicles.
The combined ingredients can have an enhanced anti-oxidative effect.
“The percentage of caffeine recovered in the hair follicles was 8 to 9% of the caffeine absorbed into the skin and matched an existing caffeine-based shampoo,” share the authors.
The German study explains that optimal scalp conditions must be maintained to prevent hair loss. Thereby, reducing oxidative stress is necessary to support hair follicle functioning.
Scientists expect the caffeine-based shampoo to be beneficial for retaining hair during aging. This is because caffeine exhibits antioxidant activity and can inhibit lipid peroxidation. “Lipid peroxidation is the free radical-mediated cell and tissue injury that forms lipid peroxides within cell membranes and organelles,” defines Science Direct.
Tested on male participants
The study was carried out using two shampoo formulations and a control formulation, applied to nine male participants.
(Image Credit: Caffeine study).
“Isotope-dilution liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was performed to demonstrate caffeine follicular delivery from the shampoo formulas,” detail the authors.
They explain that hair loss is often noticed too late – when the hair has fallen. So, they suggest a preventative means of maintaining hair volume as people age.
“Cosmetic treatments are needed to enable optimum scalp conditions and support the hair follicles to function optimally,” they add.
The ideal percentage of extract
The study on purple mangosteen peel, carried out by Malaysia-based researchers, found beneficial bioactives for the hair and scalp.
The shampoo was formulated using botanical and naturally derived ingredients and showed “desirable” physicochemical properties, antioxidant benefits, antimicrobial activities and antifungal effects.
The sample with 0.25% mangosteen peel extract was deemed to have the best antimicrobial activity and “promising free radical scavenging activities.”
Antimicrobial activity was tested on the fungus Malassezia furfur – which can cause dandruff issues – and Staphylococcus aureus – whose overgrowth can also cause dandruff.
Furthermore, the formula’s antioxidant activity was evaluated using a 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging activity assay.
Formulation ingredients for healthy hair
The authors believe the sample’s antimicrobial activity might be due to the synergistic effects of the bio-formulation containing the essential oil.
Shows hair covered with artificial sebum (b) Shows hair after one wash using the formulation (Image Credit: Mangosteen study).
The formulation contained citric acid 20%, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine sodium cocoyl glutamate, Rosa damascena (rose) flower oil, allantoin and several other ingredients.
“Specific information regarding the formulation in this publication is unable to be disclosed,” note the authors.
The researchers found the shampoo to have a good cleansing effect, which removes sebum effectively, can control dandruff, strengthen hair strands and promote healthy hair and scalp.
Eight critical hair loss factors identified
In more comprehensive research, scientists identified eight factors that impact hair loss and suggested a complete means of tackling all the elements.
“The major etiological components in scalps with hair loss are denoted as the ‘big eight strikes,’ which include the following: androgens, prostaglandins, overactive aerobic metabolism of glucose, bacterial or fungal over-colonization, inflammation, fibrosis, metabolism or circulation problems and malnutrition,” notes new research.
They recommend that cosmeceuticals formulated to improve all “eight strikes” should use “bioactive peptides and plant compounds that are either flavonoids (isoflavones, procyanidins, flavanols and flavonols) or sterols/triterpenes.”
By Venya Patel
