“Safe sun care”: Symrise unveils mineral-based broad-spectrum UV protection filters

11 May 2022 --- Symrise has unveiled its cosmetic brand Neo Heliopan, a mineral UV filter range developed under its care segment and with its strategic partner Kobo, a company specializing in mineral UV filters.

The zinc oxide-based broad-spectrum UV protection filters, Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300, provide reduced whitening and an “excellent” sensorial skin feel, notes the company.

“Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300 form a perfect combination in cosmetic product formulas that incorporate sun protection like face creams…Suitable for a wide range of products including sun care for kids, sports, and sensitive skin,” suggests Symrise.

Symrise is meeting the increasing demand for effective, safe and natural sun care with the addition of the two ingredients to its sun care portfolio. 

These launches come amid a rising tide toward coral-safe and ocean-friendly sun creams to protect aquatic ecosystems threatened by ocean heat waves. 

Switching to mineral sunscreens could make the difference in slowing the rapid pace of coral bleaching. Stanford-based researchers have found that the popular sunscreen chemical oxybenzone can become deadly to anemone and coral cells. Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300 are reef-conscious. 

Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300 don’t cause whitening effects on the skin. 

Surface treatment for finer formulation
“Formulators get considerably challenged when dispersing zinc oxide in the oil phase. They need to expend a lot of mechanical energy with crude zinc oxide,” comments Ev Suess, global head of business unit sun protection, functionals and colors at Symrise. 

“We have surface-treated our powdered form of Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300. Manufacturers can now process their products faster and with less dust.” 

The process is also noted to use “significantly less energy.” 

With the need for safer sun care, Holland & Barrett UK recently banned all suncare products containing oxybenzone and octinoxate due to their harmful effects on aquatic life.

Goodbye to white cast
“Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300 provide the ideal solution to create formulations without the annoying whitening effects on the skin,” shares Symrise. Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 and Neo Heliopan ZnO 300 don’t cause whitening effects on the skin.  

Notably, Neo Heliopan ZnO 300 provides broad-spectrum UV protection, increasing the UVA-PF. Due to its larger particle size (non-nano), the filter also offers balanced UVA protection with reduced whitening effects.

On the other hand, Neo Heliopan ZnO 40 offers UVB protection with no white cast is due to its fine particle size (nano). 

“If a UV filter absorbs both UVA and UVB, it is referred to as a broad-spectrum absorber,” explains Symrise. 

“UVA radiation is the less energetic part of UV radiation with wavelengths between 320 to 400 nanometers.” 

It continues: “UVB presents the main cause of sunburn and skin reddening, tending to damage the more superficial epidermal layers of the skin, while also being a key contributor to the development of skin cancer.”

At the in-cosmetics global, 2022, the company presented three sunscreen concepts: Daily face cream with only mineral UV filters; Kids sunscreen with only mineral UV filters; Hybrid sunscreen for sports, combining mineral and synthetic UV filters.

Edited by Venya Patel