Shiseido technology meets hyaluronic acid with “dramatic increase” in skin penetration
17 May 2022 --- Beauty tech advancer Shiseido Company has created Shape-Shifting HA Technology which controls the volume of hyaluronic acid (HA) for deeper penetration into the stratum corneum (outer layer of epidermis) after application.
The research found that adding magnesium ions (Mgions) “dramatically increases” HA penetration compared to usual HA by shrinking it (Compact HA). However, with the addition of sodium metaphosphate (SMP), a type of chelating agent, the Compact HA is restored to its original properties, increasing the water context, this time, within the stratum corneum.
“HA forms a water retention film on the skin surface and exerts a high moisturizing effect, but at the same time, its considerable molecular size hinders penetration into the stratum corneum after application.”
Boosting inner skin for health
The company flags that HA in the epidermis of the skin decreases with age, so it is vital to deliver HA to the inner skin.
“HA is a biopolymer with excellent water retention capacity and known to indicate various biological activities other than moisturizing the skin,” explains Shiseido.
“However, the stratum corneum acts as a strong barrier. It is tough to make HA penetrate the skin.”
Shiseido adds that HA injections in cosmetic medicine, which deliver HA into the subcutaneous tissue directly as an invasive procedure, still pose the challenge of not being applicable to the entire face. 
Adding the MgCl2 into the HA solution resulted in a decrease in HA volume, suggesting that MgCl2 shrinks the HA volume while enhancing skin penetration. Credit: Shiseido.
Therefore, the Shape-Shifting technology offers a non-invasive way for HA to penetrate the skin.
How does Shape-Shifting work?
The researcher added various salts to the aqueous HA solution and later added magnesium chloride (MgCl2), finding that the addition of MgCl2 increased the amount of HA in the stratum corneum.
“After applying the HA labeled with green fluorescence onto the skin surface and observing cross-sections with a fluorescence microscope, we successfully visualized that more HA had reached the deeper layer of stratum corneum via the addition of MgCl2 compared to a HA solution without MgCl2,” finds the company.
Additionally, adding the MgCl2 into the HA solution resulted in a decrease in HA volume, suggesting that MgCl2 shrinks the HA volume while enhancing skin penetration.
Resolving the shrunken HA volume
Since MgCl2 caused the HA to shrink – reducing its properties, SMP was added to the Compact HA. The research found that SMP re-expanded the HA to its original state.
“[SMP is] a chemical component that counteracts the properties of metal ions by capturing the metal ions in the surroundings,” explains Shiseido. 
The researchers found that SMP re-expanded the HA to its original state. Credit: Shiseido.
When comparing the water content in the stratum corneum when Compact HA was applied on the skin versus when an SMP solution was used after the HA application, results showed that adding SMP increased the water content.
Eco-friendly initiatives
With companies increasingly becoming aware of eco-friendly initiatives, Shiseido recently introduced a vertical farming beauty brand Ulé with bio-based Sulapac packaging. The supply chain-conscious beauty brand targets short supply and transport as well as traceable ingredients.
To add, Shiseido’s R Plus Japan investment showcased its engagement in recycling used plastics as part of the company’s pledge to accelerate used plastic recycling.
Earlier this March, Shiseido signed a multi-year licensing agreement with manufacturing company Dassault Systèmes to implement its efficient production system at global manufacturing sites, hoping to drive brand loyalty.
Furthermore, Shiseido unveiled a skin bacteria testing method to cut down the time it takes to measure indigenous skin bacteria, creating a high-value-added in-store experience and a new beauty service.
Edited by Venya Patel
