Weekly Roundup: AI automates cosmetics texture benchmarking, Estée Lauder invests in healing crystal infusions

31 Mar 2023 --- In this week’s highlights, K-Beauty giant Cosmax completed its three-year artificial intelligence (AI) research to “change the future paradigm of cosmetic development” with an automated benchmarking system that eliminates the need for physical direct-to-skin testers to describe product textures. Among other tech-driven advances, AI-based fragrance discovery company Noteworthy officially launched its personalized scent craft.

Tech advancements in cosmetics design
Cosmax completed a key stage in its “Standard Technology for Measuring Sensory Texture” research. Using AI, the K-Beauty company found it can predict the sensory texture of cosmetics without physically applying them. This result was based on the company’s collaboration with Professor Jun-dong Park’s research team at Sookmyung Women’s University. Until now, evaluating the texture of cosmetics was heavily influenced by subjective judgments based on individual experience. Therefore, the issue was the differences between people’s descriptions of how a product feels in terms of “spreadability,” “moisture” and other values. This technology will allow formulators to measure the level of cosmetic texture without human intervention, which can reduce product development time and increase quality verification speed. Moreover, it will enable precisely tailored formulations with desired sensory elements, helping further the development of customized cosmetics. In the future, the company will expand the range to various formulations and sensory characteristics and apply it to the development of customized cosmetics.

Estée Lauder Companies’ investment incubation arm, New Incubation Ventures, has taken a minority stake in Vyrao, the British new-generation wellness fragrance brand that infuses perfumes with healing crystals (Image credit: Vyrao).With aims to “take an entirely unique approach to fragrance discovery and customer matching,” Scent company Noteworthy launched in the US, Canada, the UK and Ireland. Founded in 2021 by beauty industry veterans Luke Weston and Ashley Boyce, Noteworthy is reimagining the fragrance discovery process by using AI, data science and proprietary technology to formulate personalized scent recommendations. Through a simple quiz backed by AI and data science, Noteworthy learns about its customers’ personality, life experience and individual preferences. From the profile, the algorithm is then able to determine their personalized scent recommendations. Each one of the fragrances in Noteworthy’s fine fragrance collection has been created by expert perfumers for its distinct personality.

Spectrums of soothing
The Estée Lauder Companies’ investment incubation arm, New Incubation Ventures (NIV), taken a minority stake in Vyrao, the British new-generation wellness fragrance brand founded by Yasmin Sewell Sewell – an alumnus of Browns, Liberty and Farfetch – who launched her crystal-infused unisex brand in Selfridges two years ago, fusing “energetic healing with master perfumery.” NIV’s backing in Sewell’s brand follows its investment into grooming brand Faculty, and seaweed-obsessed, Margate-based sustainable lifestyle brand Haeckels. Currently, the brand’s offering spans fragrance, incense and candles, which all enable users to “raise their energies” and promote better spiritual and mental well-being in everyday living.

Wellness brand Soul Wipe released a new crystal-infused cleansing wipe made of 100% bamboo. Each sheet is covered in non-toxic pure essential oils and ethyl alcohol, meaning it decomposes within days. The wipes also avoid pesticide and chemical ingredients. Regarding efficacy, each Soul Wipe is made with 70% ethyl alcohol. That means if a meager 2.5 ml of the product’s solution remains on the hands for 15 seconds, it will kill 99.9% of all bacteria. It also uses company founder Monica Rodriguez Dean’s favorite chakra crystals to help those who use them realign themselves and activate their energy.

Thanks! Naturals is launching its 100% full-spectrum CBD product line with organic ingredients in Spring 2023. Founded by Harley Sutton, Thanks! Naturals is presented by the makers of the Optimal Cleanse by East West Essentials, a nutritional and wellness supplement line. The new range – which includes CBD drops, pineapple-flavored gummies, CBD-infused citrus-scented soy wax candles – features a CBD-infused Soothing Lavender Body Oil designed to promote relaxation and a good night's sleep, reduce stress and combat skin dryness. The body oil is composed of apricot oil, peach oil, almond oil, full-spectrum CBD oil and lavender essential oils.

Thanks! Naturals is launching its 100% full-spectrum CBD product line with organic ingredients in Spring 2023 (Image credit: Thanks! Naturals).Textured hair innovation and men’s grooming
Textured hair care brand Mielle expanded its Pomegranate & Honey Collection with the launch of the brand’s first air dry stylers. Designed for “wash-and-go,” the Mielle Pomegranate & Honey Air Dry Styling Lotion and Pomegranate & Honey Air Dry Styler Gel help reduce drying time. They maintain moisture and shine, while offering flexible control and hold without the crunch. Meanwhile, Mielle’s Pomegranate & Honey Collection Prime + Define styling system is formulated for thick, curly, Type 4 hair. Featuring hero ingredients like pomegranate seed oil and honey, these products deeply condition strands for added moisture and softer, more manageable curls. Comprising gels, stylers, conditioners and more, this collection of products is specifically designed for easy detangling, increased curl elasticity and definition.

North American textured hair care brand Curls debuted its “2023 Hair Trend Release: Translate,” which is a compilation of five versatile hairstyles featuring various hair textures, forms and angles using Curl’s styling products. Featuring hairstyles that sport a bantu knot crown, “halo” cornrows, braids and cascading curls, this collection is designed to empower women with textured hair. At a live virtual shopping event, celebrity stylist, Johnny Wright – who counts former First Lady Michelle Obama among his clientele – led a class on how to recreate the featured hairstyles using Curls.

Men’s made-to-order home hair color brand, Colorsmith, added five new quinoa, aloe vera and kelp-based styling products: Grooming Lotion, Styling Creme Paste, Flex Gel, Pomade, and Clay Creme. Free from parabens, the stylers’ scent features notes of citrus, fresh herbs and patchouli.

Oral hygiene and fragrance tech
Colgate scientists have released a new long-lasting 24-hour antibacterial protection toothpaste branded Colgate Total Plaque Pro-Release, clinically proven to significantly reduce harmful plaque bacteria. Colgate Total Plaque Pro-Release features a formula that uses Smart Foam Technology to penetrate hard-to-reach places and fight plaque bacteria along the gum line, improving long-term gum health. It is also formulated with stannous fluoride, an agent that reduces gingivitis, plaque and tooth sensitivity – in contrast to sodium fluoride, which only protects against cavities.

By Benjamin Ferrer