Multifunctionals and biofunctionals the heart of Ashland’s latest releases at In-Cosmetics Global
31 Mar 2023 --- Ashland presented eight novel innovations for the personal care industry at In-Cosmetics Global 2023 in Barcelona, Spain. From an all-in-one, liquid multifunctional blend to a biofunctional ingredient driven by artificial intelligence (AI), the additives and specialty ingredients supplier showcased a range of solutions at the exhibit.
“Our new products are designed to leap off the lab bench and into the field, delivering sustainable solutions to fuel customers’ growth and delight consumers all over the world,” says Xiaolan Wang, senior VP and general manager for personal care at Ashland.
The company’s representatives at the booth walked PersonalCareInsights through the product displays and highlighted themes of sustainable sourcing, naturally derived ingredients and biodegradable solutions.
“One of the things you can see as a trend here in our booth is that single products don’t have one performance. We’re used to seeing ingredients from years ago that have one function that they’re good at. Whereas, you can see multifunctional benefits in our product line,” Judith Bernabé, global key account manager of personal care at Ashland, tells us.
“Companies want something that’s not cost prohibitive. For example, an active ingredient or a preservative that can justify the cost and performance balance. We constantly test the ingredients and use AI heavily in our biofunctionals to ensure performance.”
Ashland displayed a range of new ingredients at the trade show.Antimicrobial multifunctional blend
Ashland launched Phyteq Raspberry One Multifunctional “preservative booster,” which boasts antioxidant properties and is designed for difficult-to-protect leave-on formulations like sunscreens and pigmented emulsions.
“It’s based on the raspberry ketone. We have a synthetic version, which we’re promoting, but we also have a natural version coming up,” shares Bernabé.
“One of the things that Phyteq Raspberry One Multifunctional does very well is that it has multifunction, unlike other preservatives out there like Phenoxyethanol that has one function. The ingredient acts synergistically with the other preservatives from Annex five. We also have a lot of different testing data for anti-hyaluronidase and anti-elastase proving its antioxidant functionality.”
When you’re looking at the material itself, raspberry ketone, we provide the powder, which is greater than 95% pure and we also have a dilute version, so it’s easier to use.”
AI-aided jawline lift
The company spotlighted Liftyl Biofunctional, made from upcycling by-products from the rosewood essential oil distillation process used in premium fragrances. The ingredient is obtained using carbon dioxide extraction technology and is sourced sustainably from Peru.
Ashland launched Styleze Es-Dura for hair care applications.
Liftyl biofunctional is based on ethno-genomic research in facial sculpting and AI-driven efficacy mapping to increase key influential markers linked to facial sculpting and skin aging.
“The anti-sagging clinical study on Liftyl aided by AI-generated information helped us efficiently figure out the biomechanism and the biomarkers that should be targeted,” says Bernabé.
Ashland details that Liftyl biofunctional is an alternative to retinol with similar efficacy. Its consumer benefits include a v-shape jawline combating jowls, redefining contours, bouncy skin, fuller cheekbones and softer wrinkles.
Spotlighting sustainability
Other innovations presented by Ashland include the Softhance MR conditioning agent that harnesses soy and glycerin to retain moisture and deliver moisturized feel to the skin in body wash, facial and hand soaps, cleansers and scrubs.
The company also brought a plant-based ecostyler for hair care applications called Styleze Es-Dura, which can withstand all-weather style durability and curl definition. It is powered by sustainably sourced guar and delivers a lightweight feel and natural movement to the hair.
Ashland runs a sustainable guar program in Rajasthan, India.
Ashland presented a “breakthrough” innovation in oral beauty that uses upcycled saffron flower by-products from the saffron spice handcraft for daily gum care, dubbed Saffragyl Biofunctional. Ashland also unveiled a multifunctional antimicrobial blend with broad-spectrum efficacy called Sensiva Go Natural, which is suitable for sensitive skin.
Additionally, its Antaron Soja ingredient is an SPF boosting, long-wear and color transfer resistant non-microplastic film former that can be employed in sun care and color cosmetic formulations, including creams, lotions, gels, sprays and lipsticks.
The company’s ongoing sustainable guar initiative under its Ashland Responsible Solvers program also includes another field-to-market model presented at the trade show called Puraloe aloe vera, certified organic and responsible. The initiative builds supplier partnerships in Mexico and India, underscoring Ashland’s commitment to the environment, social and governance in communities where its suppliers are based.
The company partnered with SM Sehgal Foundation for an educational pilot program with small farmers in the Sriganganagar district of Rajasthan, India, to support the local suppliers and reinforce sustainable farming practices. Similarly, with the Puraloe aloe vera, the company provides farm facilities and improved infrastructure conditions for community harvesters across Jaumave Tamaulipas, Mexico.
By Radhika Sikaria
