Changing the current: Givaudan launches “never-before-seen” positively charged cationic hyaluronic acid

31 Mar 2023 --- Using white biotechnology, Givaudan Active Beauty has launched PrimalHyal Hydra[+], a new cationic hyaluronic acid (HA), which was also showcased yesterday at In-cosmetics Global, Barcelona, Spain, where PersonalCareInsights reported live from the show floor. The new ingredient is touted to “outperform” the hydration benefits of standard HA by at least a factor of two – making it applicable to rinse-off and leave-on applications.

“By modifying the charges of the molecule, we were able to boost its adhesion and affinity for the skin’s surface. That is why it works so well, even in rinsed formulas, after just one application. And amazingly, we have been able to demonstrate that the benefits are maintained for up to four days after stopping the treatment,” says Mathias Fleury, head of Actives at Active Beauty.

“PrimalHyal Hydra[+] establishes a new gold standard in terms of hydration as it demonstrates significantly better performance than other grades of “native” HA, from various molecular weights, in rinse-off and leave-on applications.”

Clinical findings
Givaudan shares the efficacy of using PrimalHyal Hydra[+] at 0.1% in clinical tests versus placebo. It was tested in different applications, such as shower gel, lotion and sheet masks.

The ingredient provided “instant” hydration within one application in rise-off and leave-on applications for the skin. One shower showed more than 11% hydration compared to the placebo.

It also had a long-term hydration effect with prolonged use while maintaining hydration for up to four days. Flash hydration via lotion had 2.6 times more benefits than the placebo. PrimalHyal Hydra[+] was found to reinforce the skin barrier by increasing lipid and protein (aquaporin and filaggrin) production. 

The ingredient was tested on skin explants from 46, 41 and 22-year-old donors. A double-blind study was carried out on volunteers for rinse-off and leave-on applications.Givaudan showcased two cosmetic products this year at In-cosmetics Global – S3D HydraSplash Shower and S3D HydraSplash Mask.

Active Beauty scientists created PrimalHyal Hydra[+] with a low molecular weight and a high cationization degree – allowing for strong skin adhesion for prolonged hydration.

Showcasing at In cosmetics Global
To demonstrate their ingredients’ efficacy, Givaudan showcased two cosmetic products this year at In-cosmetics Global – S3D HydraSplash Shower and S3D HydraSplash Mask.

The S3D HydraSplash Shower is a shower gel that activates with water on damp skin to moisturize, soothe with BisaboLife and maintain skin hydration. 

The S3D HydraSplash Mask is a 100% degradable fabric sheet mask with over 99% natural origin content. It also features hydration and brightening with Masknyl after just one application.

In general hyaluronic acid is one of the best and most trusted cosmetic ingredients by consumers globally. It is used in skincare, hair care, body care and even makeup. 

At the show, the company also presented Gravityl, an anti-gravity face care ingredient providing a lift to the skin by improving the jawline and reducing double chin. 

Alongside this was RetiLife, a 100% natural-origin retinol crafted through biotechnology. The product is marketed as a sustainable alternative to chemically synthesized retinol RetiLife with similar anti-wrinkle efficacy. Siliphos is a botanical skincare ingredient pegged as the “first” natural cosmetic alternative that provides anti-aging advantages equal to retinoids.

By Venya Patel