Ancient fungi accentuates cosmeceuticals with wound-healing properties, hydration and detoxification

24 Sep 2024 --- In the beauty realm, functional fungi retain the same allure cultivated over thousands of years in traditional medicine fields, with contemporary research spotlighting their applicability in potent cosmeceuticals. Personal Care Insights delves into the latest formulation applications for mushrooms cultivated for hydration, wound healing and anti-inflammatory benefits. 

Innova Market Insights data indicates that the use of mushrooms in Beauty & Personal Care launches witnessed 49% average annual growth between April 2019 and March 2024. From April 2023 to March 2024, Europe was the leading region for these launches.

The market researcher highlights that more than half of mushroom launches were in Face and Body Cosmetics. During the same period, snow mushroom extract was the top ingredient used.

Japanese mushroom skin care brand Shikohin — focused entirely on extracting beauty molecules from mushrooms — highlights its hero ingredient, Tremella fuciformis fungus, also known as the snow mushroom. Found within the brand’s Enlightening Night Serum and 5 Mushroom Moisturizer, the “ancient beauty” solution is tipped as an alternative to consumer-favorite hyaluronic acid.

Originating from the serene mountains of China and the temperate forests of Japan, the snow mushroom or “shiro kikurage” has been a part of traditional Asian skin care for centuries. “Imperial consorts of the Tang dynasty used this humble fungus to maintain their radiant skin and timeless beauty,” illustrates Shikohin.

“However, the benefits of this potent ingredient extend beyond the realm of vanity. Traditional Chinese Medicine practitioners employed the Tremella mushroom for its health-boosting properties, particularly its ability to improve brain function and support the immune system.”

Hyaluronic acid, often synthesized for use in beauty products, has been revered for its ability to enhance skin texture, elasticity and softness. However, snow mushroom extract reportedly shares the same ability to hold up to 500 times its weight in water, creating a flexible hydration film on the skin. 

“Yet, the molecular composition of the snow mushroom extract gives it an edge,” states Shikohin. “Its longer chain structure — made up of 1.3-mannose sugar monomer along with numerous short branches of xylose and glucuronic acid — enables it to create a stronger, more flexible hydration film.”

“This means snow mushroom extract is more robust, easier to dissolve in water, and more resilient to changes in pH, temperature and salt content. It’s an ingredient that’s not only powerful but also versatile, making it an ideal component in skincare formulations.”

A four-week study conducted by the brand established that treatment with snow mushroom “significantly improved” the stratum corneum’s water-retention ability. It found that snow mushroom “significantly lowered” the desorption rate (rate at which water is lost from the skin), indicating a “stronger, healthier skin barrier.”

 Toei Shinyaku released research findings on the wound healing activities and skin-beautifying effects of its King Agaricus mushroom (Image credit: Toei Shinyaku).Wound-healing almond mushrooms

In recent advances, Toei Shinyaku released research findings on the wound healing activities and skin-beautifying effects of its King Agaricus mushroom (“KA21”), the Japanese company’s outdoor-cultivated strain of Agaricus blazei/brasiliensis, also known as almond mushroom.

Toei Shinyaku has engaged in research and development related to the KA21 strain for over 28 years. The company published 34 international papers, while obtaining three Japanese patents and two US patents.

“Agaricus brasiliensis KA21 has various beneficial pharmacological effects; however, these effects are influenced by its cultivation conditions. A. brasiliensis KA21 is rich in β-glucan, which promotes wound healing,” highlight the researchers.

The study evaluated the wound healing-promoting effects of A. brasiliensis KA21 and the influence of cultivation conditions on these effects. KA21 is typically cultivated under the sun in the open fields of Brazil. 

“Compared to the commonly indoor-cultivated Agaricus grown in dark environments, outdoor cultivated King Agaricus was found to grow larger while containing higher levels of key components such as β-glucan and vitamin D. The outdoor varieties reportedly exhibited more than five times the antioxidant activity.

The outdoor-cultivated A. brasiliensis KA21 (KAOD) also promoted wound healing in mice with an effect stronger than that of the indoor-cultivated one (KAID).

“In addition, A. brasiliensis KA21 promoted the synthesis of collagen I and III, which are involved in promoting wound healing; KAOD strongly induced collagen III production. Furthermore, KAOD suppressed the decrease in skin elasticity after acetone application in our mouse model, which was not observed for KAID,” note the scientists.

“These results show that KAOD is useful as a supplement in surgery and injury healing for humans and animals, improving immunity against pathogens in wound areas and promoting wound healing. In addition, KAOD may be useful in the field of skin aesthetics for repairing skin damage and maintaining skin elasticity.”

Agaricus is a type of mushroom widely used in the field of complementary and alternative medicine as a health food and supplement. The researchers note that the characteristics and content of active components differ depending on the strain, cultivation conditions and origin. Additionally, the quality of Agaricus-containing products can vary greatly depending on the product.

Nature’s biofactories

A number of bioactive molecules produced by fungi, like lactic acid and ceramides, have been spotlighted for their cosmeceutical properties.

A comprehensive study on fungi “treasures” published in the South African Journal of Botany spotlights the polysaccharide schizophyllan — which originates from the fungi Schizophyllum commune — that includes 1.6-branched-1.3-glucan, which reduces inflammation of the skin, itchiness, and additional damages brought on by contact with UV rays and hazardous environments.

Lactic acid could also be manufactured through Rhizopus strains, highlight the study authors. It is utilized in dermatological cosmetic products to moisturize and soften dry, flaky skin. “A type of copolymer, chitin-glucan, is present in the cell walls of fungi, especially Aspergillus niger,” add the researchers.

Chitin-glucan is expected to be used in skin moisturizing and anti-aging formulations because of its high moisturizing characteristics that can help to combat some of the indications of aging skin.

Meanwhile, shiitake mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) are highlighted for their applicability in night lotion, because of lentinan, which stimulates skin’s immune defenses. Additionally, ellagic acid — a type of polyphenol present in fungi — offers antioxidant, anticancer and skin-whitening effects, while the anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial and detoxifying properties of gallic acid are well established.

“Tyrosinase inhibitors are useful ingredients that lighten the complexion and other products. Extracts of Ganoderma species are found in some face mask treatments on the market place,” highlight the study authors.

While plants also produce a number of cosmeceuticals, the study authors note flora typically need more time to develop and their chemical structure fluctuates from season to season and area to area. Conversely, fungi can be grown quickly and bioactive substances can be easily derived from them and rapidly utilized in the cosmetic industry.

“Contemporary aquaculture technologies can quickly and cheaply develop marine fungi in enormous numbers, producing chemically distinct macromolecules of cosmeceutical importance that are unavailable in terrestrial ecosystems,” the researchers underscore.

In other recent advances, Dyson launched a line of wet hair styling products infused with chitosan — a complex macromolecule derived from oyster mushrooms. The complex is found in the mushroom’s cell walls and gives the fungi its shape, allowing it to give hair hold.

By Benjamin Ferrer