Bio-based innovation: Nature-derived solutions greening up cosmetics and packaging

10 Jan 2023 --- Plant-sourced formulations are gaining traction across the personal care market as consumers increasingly lean toward eco-centric beauty and packaging. In this Special Report, PersonalCareInsights explores the latest green ingredient R&D highlights, which include new nature-based materials in cosmetic packaging and moves to harness the functionalities of yeast in a “molecular leap” for producing bio-collagen.

Innova Market Insights recently reported that beauty and personal care launches tracked with natural and organic claims grew by 9% between July 2017 and June 2022. Europe led the way at 61%, followed by Asia at 17%. Skincare was the top market category with natural and organic claims.

The market researcher also highlighted a +39% average annual growth in personal care launches tracked with natural, organic and ethical claims in packaging (Global CAGR, July 2017 to Jun 2022).

Rice-based biopolymers for light skin feel
BASF’s Care Creations has introduced a new biopolymer based on rice, under its Verdessence line of nature-based biopolymers, branded RiceTouch. The ingredient’s absorption of various oils helps decrease the sensation of oiliness in formulations. It is marketed as a natural sensory powder from non-GMO rice locally produced in the EU.

BASF’s Care Creations has introduced a new biopolymer based on rice for reducing oiliness in formulations.The plant-based sensory powder with small particle size provides a powdery light and smooth skin feel and is ideal for matte cosmetics. It is suited for various fields of natural and organic cosmetics including face and body care, hair care and body cleansing, color cosmetics and sun care while reducing greasiness of formulations.

Verdessence RiceTouch’s compatibility in different formulations results in shine control and a mattifying effect. Stickiness reduction and spreading enhancement are additional benefits. This free-flowing and low dust powder exhibits low microbial count.

Like other biopolymers in the Verdessence line, RiceTouch is derived from natural 100% renewable feedstocks and also does not contain any preservatives. No chemical modifications are needed during the production process, notes BASF. 

“Sensory is an important attribute for consumers when it comes to the selection of cosmetic products. With Verdessence RiceTouch, we use one of nature’s offerings of bio-sourced alternatives to synthetic sensory modifiers,” states Dr. Natalia Chudinova, marketing manager for Market Development Face/Skin Care at BASF.

Verdessence RiceTouch can be used alone or in combination with other biopolymers such as Verdessence Tara, Verdessence Alginate and Verdessence Xanthan, allowing formulations of a broad range of leave-on applications like creams and lotions, AP deos, foundations, eye shadows, dry shampoos and anhydrous products, among others.

Crafting cosmetic cases with biomaterials
CJ Biomaterials, a division of South Korea-based CJ CheilJedang and a primary producer of polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) – polyesters produced in nature by numerous microorganisms – has developed a new bio-based cosmetic packaging for CJ Olive Young, a health and beauty retail chain in Korea. 

This new cosmetic case is created using CJ Biomaterials’ amorphous PHA technology in combination with polylactic acid (PLA) and will be sold under Olive Young's popular private brand, Wakemake. 

The manufacturing process for PLA is deemed more environmentally friendly than that of traditional plastics made from finite fossil resources. According to research by BioPak, the carbon emissions associated with PLA production are 80% lower than that of traditional plastic.

Launched in Korea last month, the Wakemake Water Velvet Vegan Cushion uses vegan cosmetic ingredients in addition to its eco-friendly packaging.

“This is an important milestone for CJ Biomaterials, and we expect that the application of bio-based materials in the consumer goods market will expand beyond the release of the Wakemake cushion,” comments Seung-Jin Lee, head of the Biomaterials business from CJ CheilJedang. 

“We will widely promote the use of PHA in various markets, as it is an eco-friendly material that is effective for industrial-scale use. Our PHA products are derived from nature and return to nature – are helping to meet the growing demands from brands and consumers for more environmentally friendly products.”The eco-friendly Wakemake Water Velvet Vegan Cushion (Image credit: Wakemake).

PLA has experienced significant growth as a bio-based material in a broad range of finished product applications and is currently the most widely used industrial compostable material in the world, but it has certain limitations, according to the company. 

Blending amorphous PHA in PLA leads to significant improvements in the mechanical properties of PLA, such as toughness and ductility leading to improved impact resistance and the creation of elegant shapes.

CJ Biomaterials’ amorphous PHA is a softer, more rubbery version of PHA that offers fundamentally different performance characteristics than the crystalline or semi-crystalline forms that currently dominate the PHA market.

The 100% bio-sourced solution of amorphous PHA and PLA materials were applied to the entire outside of the Wakemake container, replacing acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS). Some developed countries and leading cosmetic brands are actively making efforts to replace ABS, a petroleum-based, non-biodegradable plastic that is currently widely used in cosmetic containers. 

Earlier this year, CJ Biomaterials announced commercial-scale production of PHA following the inauguration of its production facility in Pasuruan, Indonesia, becoming the only company in the world that can produce aPHA at scale, which includes CJ Biomaterials' first product under its new PHACT brand, named PHACT A1000P. 

The company also expanded its biomaterials business by establishing relationships with global organizations, including NatureWorks, Yuhan-Kimberly the ACCOR hotel chain, and the makeup brand Banilla, which plans to launch cosmetics with containers made from bio-sourced materials in early 2023.

Harnessing yeast for bio-collagen
As global demand for collagen grows, so does its environmental impact. Bovine collagen, the most common source available in the industry, contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and risks xenogenic disease transfer, as well as allergic immune reactions. 

Addressing this, US biofabrication specialist Modern Meadow has introduced a “long-overdue” alternative to petrochemical or animal-derived inputs. Leveraging its understanding of molecular biology and fermentation processes, the company is engineering yeast strains to produce its product, Bio-Coll@gen.Bio-Coll@gen is engineering yeast strains to produce collagen.

This proprietary recombinant protein is identical in sequence to Collagen type III, which is most prevalent in youthful skin. When skin ages, collagen decreases. The solution promotes the skin’s natural ability to produce more Collagen type III, offering anti-aging benefits and eliminating the need for potentially harmful products such as animal-derived or synthetic collagen and other additives.

Collagen types I and III are the main structural proteins found in human skin and other connective tissues. Collagen type I creates the matrix of the skin while Collagen type III modulates skin elasticity and, therefore, they have a key role in the skin aging process and skin appearance.

“Collagen type III proteins are notoriously difficult to extract and very costly,” the company highlights. “By growing these proteins from yeast, we bypass the conventional animal-based extraction methods and provide the cosmetics industry with a more sustainable and efficacious building block for beauty products.”

In what the company deems a “molecular leap forward,” Bio-Coll@gen is produced with the same fermentation processes used to produce beer and wine. It’s a simple, traceable production process using sustainable feedstock with no odor or color, details the producer. 

The company markets its products as “100% traceable from Lab-to-Brand,” while being easy to formulate with and ideal for all skin types.

Bio-Coll@gen works in two ways – first by reducing the Extracellular Matrix (ECM) Degradation and second by improving the ECM Matrix Synthesis. Its efficacy in anti-aging has been proven in-vitro and through two independent clinical studies.

Of the 15 most sought-after beauty ingredients, collagen is the only one still sourced from animals such as cows, pigs, poultry and fish. Modern Meadow’s Bio-Coll@gen eliminates the need for animal-sourcing of collagen while offering claims to elevate collagen’s efficacy. Bio-Coll@gen is certified as GMO-free, vegan and halal.

By Benjamin Ferrer