Can collagen be vegan? BioCell Technology and Rousselot unveil NPD challenges and trends

17 Jan 2023 --- With holistic and multifunctional ingredients taking center stage in the beauty-from-within space, PersonalCareInsights rounds up the trends in collagen product developments with inputs from market leaders BioCell Technology and Rousselot. We also explore whether collagen can be animal-free while zeroing in on delivery formats and what to expect in the year ahead.

According to market researcher Innova Market Insights, product launches with collagen ingredients have a stable growth path.

The top categories for products with collagen are skincare and hair care, but the fastest growing is collagen used in hand, bath and shower products (CAGR, Jul 2017 to Jun 2022).

BioCell Technology and Rousselot highlight beauty-from-within and multifunctional products as trends to look out for. Additionally, the companies spotlight increasing consumer demand for sustainably sourced ingredients.

“As consumers become more familiar with its holistic benefits, we expect collagen to be the trending ingredient across various segments in 2023,” says Florencia Moreno Torres, global business development manager of health & nutrition at Rousselot.

“Take nutricosmetics, for example. In this space, collagen has long been recognized as a key ingredient to promoting skin beauty from the ‘inside-out,’ but the growth experienced in the last decade has been nothing short of impressive, making it the star ingredient in many beauty supplements.”

Is “animal-free” collagen a myth?
Innova Market Insights reports a 79% growth (CAGR, Jul 2017-Jun 2022) in no-animal ingredient claims for collagen products.

However, BioCell Technology’s global sales & marketing manager, Douglas Jones believes that all collagen products are derived from animals.Jones spotlights that retailers have started to market beauty-from-within dietary supplements in the beauty aisles instead of medicine.

“Unfortunately, consumers don’t know where collagen comes from. All collagen products are animal-based – plants do not make collagen. Plant-based ingredients are in development but are extraordinarily expensive, and they don’t have clinical evidence yet.”

“That’s an area that we’re looking at, but for anybody marketing these products, we need to make sure we’re educating consumers that there’s unfortunately not a collagen alternative on the market that has strong evidence.”

BioCell Collagen is derived exclusively from hormone and antibiotic-free chicken sternal cartilage, a rich source of type II collagen, hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, which closely mirrors the composition of human articular cartilage.

Cartilage is a clean and desirable source because it is free from the blood supply and devoid of lymphatics and nerves, unlike other parts of the carcasses of fish, cows, pigs or chicken used to manufacture the majority of collagen ingredients on the market, including gelatin, the company shares.

“Our ingredient is harvested from a poultry farm because we are an agricultural-based ingredient. All the animals are raised humanely at par with the strict EU regulations.”

“We do not produce any chickens to make our product – we take material from the animals already being used as a source of meat for extracting our cartilage, then using it for [BioCell’s collagen product].”

Torres explains that collagen is a naturally occurring protein essential for the integrity and elasticity of virtually every connective tissue in the human body.

“Collagen and collagen peptides are derived from various natural sources, such as animal bones and skins. So it is, by definition, bio-based and natural.”

“The raw materials used in collagen peptides’ production would be otherwise discarded or converted into lower value materials. At Rousselot, by transforming nutrient-rich raw materials into high-quality, functional solutions, we make sure none of their natural goodness goes to waste,” Torres adds.

Collagen for hair care
The benefits of collagen for hair care are being increasingly investigated. “We can expect that collagen supplementation for hair beauty will make headlines in 2023,” Torres reveals.Rousselot expects collagen supplementation for hair beauty will make headlines in 2023.

Researchers at Rousselot recently partnered with Monasterium Laboratories – a renowned Clinical Research Organization in skin and hair research – to better understand the mechanism of action behind collagen’s success as a hair supplement. Torres tells us that the study will be published this year, showing how supplementation with collagen peptides can inhibit the death of hair-producing cells, helping reduce hair loss.

“Collagen’s ability to improve hair beauty has been known for a long time. However, it is only recently that pioneering studies shed light on the mechanism of action behind its benefits,” Torres says.

For the study, the researchers enlisted a cohort of male and female volunteers, with an average age of 51 and 39, respectively, to ensure a wide variety of hair types and growth patterns could be analyzed. The volunteers’ hair follicles were treated with collagen peptides, which were digested in vitro, mimicking the real-life physiology of digestion after oral intake.

“With demand for skin and hair care products on the rise, collagen peptides are emerging as a trend ingredient to help brands address these demands. Supplementing with Rousselot’s flagship solution Peptan collagen peptides can slow down hair loss in both men and women [the study revealed],” reiterates Torres.

From Asia to beauty-from-within
Jones, says beauty-from-within is a “huge area” of growth for the company bolstered by the COVID-19 pandemic. 

PersonalCareInsights previously reported about a China-based study that discovered internal stress brought on by chronic sleep deprivation and external stress such as environmental stimuli raises the risk of skin diseases through abnormal neurotransmitter release.

Beauty-from-within is a “huge area” of growth for BioCell, bolstered by the COVID-19 pandemic.The study provided compelling evidence for nutricosmetic ingredients derived from plant extracts and the potential role of oral active plant extracts in neuro-cosmetics, acknowledging the beauty-from-within trend.

“Beauty-from-within as a concept was recognized by consumers, particularly in China, Japan and other Eastern Asian countries, as part of their culture. Traditional medicine ingredients have been well-known and used for millennials. But one of the things that came out of the pandemic was that consumers couldn’t go to spas and clinics for treatments, so they sought personal care solutions at home,” says Jones.

“Add to that increased camera time with remote video calls and constantly checking their appearance, and we’ve seen that skin health and appearance has become important to consumers.” 

According to Jones, post-pandemic consumer awareness of supplementation is clearly traceable. “One of the trends we’ve seen in the last three years is that retailers now, in their cosmetic and beauty aisles, have started to market beauty-from-within dietary supplements. Consumers don’t have to go to the supplement aisle, but can now find these products in the beauty section.”

For Torres at Rousselot, “the future of collagen looks bright.”

“Individuals are increasingly looking for dietary supplements that match their unique lifestyle, age, diet and health goals. Because it can be easily incorporated into virtually every popular delivery format, collagen allows brands to create these targeted products, tailored to the needs of specific consumers.”

The gut health potential of collagen peptides, alongside the positive effects of collagen supplements on hair beauty, will likely be a key area of focus in the near future, Torres predicts.

Challenges for NPD and delivery methods
Sourcing and availability of raw materials, along with sensory properties and consistency, are the main challenges facing new developments in collagen products, according to Torres.

“Only by collaborating with suppliers that meet the highest standards and comply with strict regulatory requirements can we help build an industry that values full traceability, animal welfare, safety and sustainability,” says Torres.

“With an ever-widening consumer base, however, potential challenges surrounding the availability and affordability of raw materials also rear their heads. As a result, we see more accessible collagen forms, such as porcine origin, becoming the ingredient of choice for brands hoping to appeal to a wider audience.”

Moreover, regarding the consumer expectations around the look, taste and smell of the products they consume, Torres shares that ensuring excellent sensory performance and consistency is a big challenge.

“This is precisely what the Rousselot Global Sensory Program was created to offer. Our sensory experts work alongside partners to rigorously test final applications in our state-of-the-art sensory lab. Our ability to create sensory fingerprints means we can deliver the precise quality and properties manufacturers need to produce exceptional products,” continues Torres.BioCell Collagen is derived exclusively from hormone and antibiotic-free chicken sternal cartilage.

Tech impacting delivery formats
Technology is crucial in allowing manufacturers to develop new delivery formats that help solve existing formulation challenges.

Functional gummies, for example, present formulation challenges since the heat required during the production process make it difficult to maintain a stable and high active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) content.

“What’s special about Rousselot’s SiMoGel technology is that the absence of molding starch ensures a hygienic production environment and avoids the cross-contamination of vitamins, minerals and active ingredients, which can be included with a more accurate dosage,” Torres highlights.

“With technologies such as the gelatin solution SiMoGel, brands can overcome limiting factors in functional gummy production and develop innovative dosage forms, like center-filled gummy caps, allowing to include higher dosage of APIs in a single gummy, while maintaining stability.”

For Jones at BioCell, one of the notable delivery formats is the direct-mouth application.

“I see product companies are developing products in the direct-to-mouth application – like little sachets that people can take directly without water. But the traditional capsule and tablet continue to be the mainstay of the industry,” he concludes.

By Radhika Sikaria