Championing Ayurveda: 5,000-year-old natural healing science brings harmony to beauty

21 Feb 2023 --- As the world moves toward clean and natural beauty products, treatments and solutions, PersonalCareInsights delves into the rise of indie brands in the space. We track new product developments driven by the ancient Indian science of Ayurveda that focuses on holistic healing. 

For over two decades, the Indian brand Kama Ayurveda has leveraged the science of natural ingredients, delivering products free from harmful chemicals, artificial colors, fragrances and parabens. The Peta- and Cosmos Organic-certified brand prioritizes “long-term efficacy and wellness over short-term temporary results.”

“Ayurveda expounds a way of life, focusing on the balance between mind, body and soul, where true beauty comes from within. It uses fundamental concepts of balance and harmony to assess the inherent disposition individuals are born with, called Prakruti,” the brand shares.

“Our devotion to help revitalize the 5,000-year-old medical science of Ayurveda began with sourcing the botanicals and natural actives in a sustainable and authentic manner,” it continues.The science of Ayurveda and its holistic solutions have been traded down from one generation to the next.

Ayurvedic chemistry
Coupling ancient Ayurvedic ingredients with modern conscious chemistry, Indian-origin influencer Diipa Büller-Khosla launched a skincare brand globally, dubbed Indē Wild which describes its ethos as trademarked “Ayurvedistry.”

“By bringing Ayurvedistry to the market – a brand new segment of beauty – we’re offering something new and unheard of, filling whitespace,” says Khosla.

Khosla assures that her products are suitable for all skin types and caters to the specific needs of Indian skin tones. “I think what sets Indē Wild apart from the rest is that we are backed by our expert board.”

“We lean on our diverse board of all-female experts consisting of cosmetic chemists, formulators and Ayurvedic doctors. We’re pairing our ancient rituals and culture with cutting-edge science by involving experts on both ends of the spectrum, from choosing the Ayurvedic ingredients to the formula creation, which took two years to develop,” Khosla continues.

Nature’s superfood for humans
The brand uses Ayurvedic superfoods as ingredients catering to a demographic of modern young women, primarily focusing on different skin types, tones, textures and concerns deeply rooted within the South Asian community.Kama Ayurveda’s Kumkumadi Rejuvenating & Brightening Night Cream blends saffron from Kashmir, India, to brighten skin and reduce dark circles.

For illustration, Indē Wild’s AM Sunrise Glow Serum: 15% Vitamin C, houses seven active ingredients, including turmeric and ashwagandha, that work to brighten, repair and hydrate the skin while reducing acne scarring and fading hyperpigmentation.

“An acne-treating herb, ashwagandha fights active blemishes while helping to prevent new impurities. Its pore-unclogging properties also aid in reducing the appearance of scarring and repairing inflammation. This superfood calms, nourishes and revives the skin, relieving it from stress,” the brand details.

Regarding turmeric, Indē Wild elucidates that the ingredient is an age-old Indian spice that has a range of soothing and therapeutic properties.

“Turmeric has earned its Ayurvedic stripes for centuries…Much like vitamin C, turmeric also firms and tightens overall skin elasticity while speeding up the skin’s ability to form new and healthy tissue,” Indē Wild shares.

At the India launch of Khosla’s skincare brand, two products sold out within two-and-a-half hours. The PM Sunset Restore Serum: 1% Bakuchiol, is “the first-ever Ayurvedic skin solution that contains Bakuchiol and is safe for all skin types and users, including pregnant, breastfeeding women and those with sensitive skin.”

“An Ayurvedic alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol is especially safe for sensitive skin as well as pregnant or breastfeeding women. This natural ingredient is derived from the babchi plant and specifically from its leaves and seeds,” Indē Wild explains. 

“For generations, Bakuchiol has been used in ancient practices for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, which heal and calm the skin. While soothing the skin, it also works to visibly reduce the appearance of pores and promote skin firmness.”Innova Market Insights reports that using plant-based claims in personal care launches is increasing globally.

Natural and clean
Innova Market Insights reports that using plant-based claims in personal care launches is increasing globally, featuring a 32% year-over-year growth when comparing 2020 and 2021.

According to the market researcher, natural beauty product launches show stable growth with an average annual growth of 5% between Q4/2017 – Q3/2018 vs. Q4/2021 – Q3/2022. Skincare leads in natural claims and oils are the fastest-growing category at 42%, followed closely by fragrances.

“Kama Ayurveda uses authentic, intricately balanced Ayurvedic formulations without harmful chemicals like sulfates, parabens, artificial fragrances, GMOs, petrochemicals and mineral oil, etc. Our products are clean, ensuring they are kinder to your skin than products with harmful ingredients,” the brand details.

It harnesses the benefits of natural ingredients such as aloe vera, amla, ashwagandha, coriander, soap nuts, sweet basil, sandalwood and saffron, among others.

Regarding the brand’s best-selling Bringadi Thailam Intensive Hair Treatment – which is clinically tested to reduce hair fall in 94% of the panel by 61% in four weeks – Kama Ayurveda elaborates that its traditional Ayurvedic recipe consists of potent herbs extracted into pure sesame oil and milk.

It also includes hair-nourishing ingredients like indigo, bhringraj (Eclipta Alba) and gooseberry to promote hair growth. Anti-fungal licorice and antibacterial balloon vine prevent scalp infections in this hair treatment oil.Kama Ayurveda sources the botanicals and natural actives for its products in a sustainable and authentic manner.

“The Indian gooseberry, also known as Emblica Officinalis fruit extract, is a powerhouse of vitamin C that helps enhance hair resilience,” Kama Ayurveda details.

Another one of Kama Ayurveda’s bestsellers, Kumkumadi Rejuvenating & Brightening Night Cream, blends the finest saffron from Kashmir, India, to brighten skin and reduce dark circles and pigmentation. 

The cream employs Indian Madder and aloe vera, which have antiseptic properties, prevent fine lines, and delay aging skin. Moreover, vetiver and lotus in the product cool and cleanse while helping clear blemishes. 

Indi-beauty
The science of Ayurveda and its holistic solutions have been traded down from one generation to the next.

India’s oldest medical system is now recognized worldwide and is also being utilized by Western brands for personal care developments. 

Active Concepts tapped into Ayurveda for its hair growth and rejuvenation product ACB Rice Water SF. Rice is noted to provide nutritional and therapeutic benefits in Ayurvedic medicine. To extract the most benefits from Oryza sativa (rice) seed, Active Concepts created ACB Rice Water SF by using “the oldest known biotechnological fermentation technique.”Turmeric firms and tightens overall skin elasticity while speeding up the skin’s ability to form new and healthy tissue.

“Fermentation is known to be able to reduce the molecular weight of starches. We thought we could enhance performance using green technology by bringing together these two [Ayurveda and fermentation] traditional technologies,” Alexandra Mozina, technical marketing at Active Concepts, previously told PersonalCareInsights. 

Moreover, last July, Silicon Valley-based biotech skincare company Codex Beauty Labs launched its third collection called Shaant, which addresses oily and acne-prone skin by targeting the microbiome. The Ayurvedic-inspired product is designed to help reduce sebum production, exfoliate, encourage skin turnover and soothe irritation.

Shaant, meaning “peace” and “calm” in Hindi, is often paired with the sentiment of “connectedness” in Ayurvedic philosophy. “Through Ayurvedic plant databases in India, we have identified actives that address two root causes, namely sebum overproduction and accumulation of dead skin cells in pores,” asserted Dr. Barb Paldus, founder and CEO at Codex Beauty Labs.

“I always love to try to bridge the Ayurvedic principles into the western principles. The way Ayurveda looks at the body is slightly different, but actually, it really beautifully integrates with the western approach when you start building these bridges. Shaant is a great example of this confluence.” 

By Radhika Sikaria