Codex Beauty Labs integrates Ayurveda and microbiome science to target oily and acne-prone skin

25 Jul 2022 --- Silicon Valley-based plant-based biotech skincare company Codex Beauty Labs has launched its third collection called Shaant, which addresses oily and acne-prone skin by targeting the microbiome. The Ayurvedic-inspired product is designed to help reduce sebum production, exfoliate, encourage skin turnover and soothe irritation.

“Shaant also leverages our patented PreservX preservation system that supports microbiome health – so we are proud that Shaant is the first MyMicrobiome-certified collection for acne-prone skin,” details Dr. Barb Paldus, Founder and CEO of Codex Beauty Labs.

Shaant, meaning “peace” and “calm” in Hindi, is often paired with the sentiment of “connectedness” in Ayurvedic philosophy.

“Increasing levels of stress in our society, stress, poor quality sleep, rising pollution, as well as unhealthy eating and alcohol habits have all contributed to increased acne in both teenagers and adults,” details Dr. Paldus.

“Through Ayurvedic plant databases in India, we have identified actives that address two root causes, namely sebum overproduction, and accumulation of dead skin cells in pores.”

Ayurveda – sometimes referred to as “India’s oldest medical system” – has gained recognition in the beauty space for its age-old potential to remedy the skin holistically. 

Exotic Ayurvedic plants like Green Chiretta (Andrographis paniculata), a chrono-detox and feel-good energizing active ingredient, have gained attention in novel skincare formulations released this year.

The new Shaant line by Codex Beauty Labs (Credit: Codex Beauty Labs).Integrate Ayurvedic healing into skincare
The Shaant products were formulated in partnership with Dr. Raja Sivamani, an integrative dermatologist and certified Ayurvedic practitioner.

The solutions leverage biotech-manufactured plant stem cells from Indian plants, which have been long valued by Ayurvedic healers for their calming, soothing and balancing properties.

“I am committed to individualizing patient care and my passion for practical research,” says Dr. Sivamani.

“By integrating concepts from Ayurvedic medicine, plant sciences, and food sciences, I look to push the boundaries of integrative therapies to make them better for our patients and to better educate those around me.”

The entire collection, including future over-the-counter products, is undergoing an IRB clinical trial under the supervision of Dr. Sivamani.

“This is the philosophy behind the Shaant skincare collection for acne-prone skin: Ayurvedic plants, such as gotu kola or patchouli, that have been vetted with Western scientific tools, like their effect on gene expression in skin cells and clinical tests on patients with acne,” Dr. Sivamani notes.

“I always love to try to bridge the Ayurvedic principles into the western principles. The way Ayurveda looks at the body is slightly different, but actually it really beautifully integrates with the western approach when you start building these bridges. Shaant is a great example of this confluence.”

Every product in the Shaant collection undergoes efficacy testing at a third-party clinical facility. 

All products in this line also contain sustainably sourced ingredients housed in plant-based polyethylene tubes or 50% PCR PET bottles, which reduce each product's carbon footprint from about 50% to 100%, according to the company. 

Blend of terrestrial and marine plants
The collection harnesses the patent-pending ShaantComplex, a proprietary blend of derived from terrestrial and marine plants that help control oiliness, shed dead skin cells, reduce pore diameter and help reduce redness.

“Each plant addresses the acne inflammasome in distinct yet synergistic ways,” details Codex Beauty Labs. The ShaantComplex is supplemented by other Ayurvedic plants or fruits that are known for their analgesic, anti-inflammatory and skin tone improving properties.

The new collection includes a balancing Foaming Cleanser that decongests pores without stripping moisture. It also comes with a Refining Toner that hydrates, soothes irritation and minimizes pores.

Next in the line is a Balancing Clay Mask that absorbs excess oil, cleans pores and deeply exfoliates. It is followed by a Balancing Oil Control Cream that mattifies oiliness and smoothes skin texture.

These first four Shaant products are certified MyMicrobiome, Vegan, Leaping Bunny, and EWG Verified. The cleanser and toner are also certified EcoCert COSMOS natural. 

Skin microbiome in focus
The rollout follow’s Codex Beauty Labs’ recent launch of microbiome-friendly bath salts. The salts are marketed as “integrative dermatology” – having mental and physical benefits in one. The SeaRock Saltcomplex (Epsom, rock and sea salts) are fragrant with essential oils which can also be used as aromatherapy.

The skin microbiome has come into increasing focus in new product development this year. Unilever scientists recently partnered with IBM and Eagle Genomics to create modern approaches using AI to unearth new insights in microbiome datasets and provide treatments for dry skin.

Last month, BASF’s Care Creations released Probiolift and Postbiolift, two biotic ingredients for healthy skin aging. The ingredients are based on Lactobacillus crispatus (L. crispatus) – an anaerobic bacterium found in the skin and decreases with age.

In an “industry-first” discovery, short-chain fructo-oligosaccharides (scFOS) from sugar beet (DP 3–5) are being explored by French and Italian researchers for their potential to help balance the skin microbiota by inhibiting the growth of potential pathogens and promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria.

Edited by Benjamin Ferrer