BASF unveils live biotic-based ingredients for youthful skin appearance

29 Jun 2022 --- BASF’s Care Creations is releasing Probiolift and Postbiolift, two biotic ingredients for healthy skin aging. The ingredients are based on Lactobacillus crispatus (L. crispatus) – an anaerobic bacterium found in the skin and decreases with age.

“Both ingredients are a good example of how manufacturers can meet the new demands in anti-aging skin care as consumers expect their products to provide care and protection to help their skin age healthily,” Cécile Kalem, BASF launch manager for active ingredients in Europe, tells PersonalCareInsights.

The Probiolift cosmetic ingredient contains live probiotics that may improve the appearance of wrinkles and give the skin a fuller appearance. Meanwhile, Postbiolift is a postbiotic that may smooth the appearance of crow’s feet and make the skin appear more elastic.

“Previously, living probiotics were not widely used in cosmetic products since there are several technical barriers related to safety, regulatory and viability issues that need to be overcome,” adds Kalem.

“The Probiolift ingredient can be safely integrated into skin care products while ensuring a reasonable shelf life.”

“Unrealized” potential in biotics
Probiolift is made of living but dormant L. crispatus bacteria which “awaken” in contact with water on the skin.

Thus, the ingredient creates a previously ultimately “unrealized” potential in the biotic beauty industry. It improves the look of forehead wrinkles and gives the face a fuller appearance, promoting healthy skin aging.

According to BASF, Lactobacillus crispatus bacteria is found in young skin and decreases in aging skin.BASF undertook a clinical investigation involving 29 female volunteers with fine lines or wrinkles on their forehead between the ages of 45 and 65.

In comparison to a base cream formulation containing a placebo, the effectiveness of a base cream formulation containing Probiolift at 0.05% was assessed.

After two months, the volunteers’ skin seemed fuller due to Probiolift. The probiotic also provided a noticeable improvement in this area, attaining a 5% reduction in wrinkle appearance compared to the placebo, although the look of forehead wrinkles is more challenging to smooth than crow’s feet.

Reducing crow’s feet and adding elasticity
Postbiolift is a postbiotic ingredient that contains metabolites that L. crispatus secretes. To assist the skin to look more elastic, reduce the appearance of wrinkles around the eyes and give the appearance of a uniform complexion, it supports an improvement in the mechanical qualities of the skin.

Another clinical trial involving 30 female volunteers aged 40 to 50 was assessed to prove the ingredient’s effectiveness. The participants had color spots and crow’s feet on their faces.

The skin’s elastic parameters were assessed after 28 days and 56 days of therapy with the substance prepared at 1% in a cream. With an improvement of up to 10%, the results were notable compared to the placebo, BASF notes.

Additionally, Postbiolift reduced the appearance of crow’s feet and pigmented age spots in these middle-aged women by about 7% at the end of the 56-day research compared to the placebo.

Insights into age-related microbiota changes
A recent study by BASF on the differences in the facial microbiome makeup of young and elderly persons adds to prior data that suggests skin microbiota diversity varies with aging.

Probiolift is a probiotic with dormant cells of living L. crispatus and Postbiolift contains metabolites from L. crispatus.

Researchers discovered that Lactobacilli, a type of lactic acid bacteria, significantly decreases in mature skin. The undereye area of the older participants showed a drop in L. crispatus, which was also undetectable in the wrinkle hollow.

This discovery has prompted scientists at BASF to speculate that L. crispatus, isolated from human skin, might hold the secret to skin that looks younger.

BASF’s previous skin and hair care moves
BASF previously addressed developments in epigenetics, studies on acne-prone skin and hair loss, the revival of Traditional Chinese medicine and skin microbiome research. Meanwhile, BASF’s Care Creations partnered with Natural Machines to develop technology that will enable 3D printers to build personalized face masks and eye patches.

In other developments, the company unveiled Seanactiv, an ingredient based on organic-certified marine algae fucus vesiculosus, which may improve signs of aging around the eye contour.

In Lagos, Nigeria, BASF’s Care Creations opened a personal care evaluation salon that will enable in-person sensory and performance testing of skin and hair formulations on volunteers.

By Nicole Kerr